Crossmember - Steering rack problem
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Crossmember - Steering rack problem
Dropped my 99 coupe off at a local Corvette repair shop to have the harmonic balancer replaced. He called me to come back when the car was on the lift and working on the steering rack. He had pulled the bolts holding the steering rack bushings to the crossmember and found the (pass side) steering rack bushing was wedged in the cross member uprights. The driver side bolt hole looked normal (round) but the pass. side had an elongated (sideways oval) crossmember hole. He thought the steering rack may have been loose at one point, slapping back and forth, elongating the hole and when it was finally tightened, it was over torqued so much as to wedge the rack bushing between the crossmember uprights.
Since the crossmeber is aluminum, he didn't want to heat it. What he thought was next step was to take the spring down and work on the rack from underneath the crossmember.
Anyone ever encounter a problem like that?
I asked if thought the crossmember needed to be replaced or at least drilled out so a sleave could be inserted into the oval hole. He wanted to assess the situation once the rack is free from the crossmember.
Any advice or opinions? Thanks, in advance.
Since the crossmeber is aluminum, he didn't want to heat it. What he thought was next step was to take the spring down and work on the rack from underneath the crossmember.
Anyone ever encounter a problem like that?
I asked if thought the crossmember needed to be replaced or at least drilled out so a sleave could be inserted into the oval hole. He wanted to assess the situation once the rack is free from the crossmember.
Any advice or opinions? Thanks, in advance.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Austin Texas
If I understand your description correctly, the ears of the passenger side have elongated holes from wear that are large enough to allow the steering rack bushing to slide into each when the bolt is tightened. So, in effect, the ears have been bent toward one another as the bolt was torqued down. If that is the case you should be able to drive the bushing out with a drift, then CAREFULLY tap the rack toward the driver side until the mounting boss clears the crossmember ears.
Be very careful. There are reports of people breaking those ears off from banging on them. I would assume the crossmember is heat treated for added strength but only guessing. If you were to weld the slot and redrill it might destroy the heat treat. Another option might be to bolt a steel doubler plate on each ear but it wouldn't look very good. Try to post a picture. I think more people will respond if they can see exactly what you are describing.
Be very careful. There are reports of people breaking those ears off from banging on them. I would assume the crossmember is heat treated for added strength but only guessing. If you were to weld the slot and redrill it might destroy the heat treat. Another option might be to bolt a steel doubler plate on each ear but it wouldn't look very good. Try to post a picture. I think more people will respond if they can see exactly what you are describing.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,456
Likes: 1,164
From: Dyer, IN
Dropped my 99 coupe off at a local Corvette repair shop to have the harmonic balancer replaced. He called me to come back when the car was on the lift and working on the steering rack. He had pulled the bolts holding the steering rack bushings to the crossmember and found the (pass side) steering rack bushing was wedged in the cross member uprights. The driver side bolt hole looked normal (round) but the pass. side had an elongated (sideways oval) crossmember hole. He thought the steering rack may have been loose at one point, slapping back and forth, elongating the hole and when it was finally tightened, it was over torqued so much as to wedge the rack bushing between the crossmember uprights.
Since the crossmeber is aluminum, he didn't want to heat it. What he thought was next step was to take the spring down and work on the rack from underneath the crossmember.
Anyone ever encounter a problem like that?
I asked if thought the crossmember needed to be replaced or at least drilled out so a sleave could be inserted into the oval hole. He wanted to assess the situation once the rack is free from the crossmember. That sucker is tight in the crossmember, and you typically need a prybar, to lift up the rack.
Any advice or opinions? Thanks, in advance.
Since the crossmeber is aluminum, he didn't want to heat it. What he thought was next step was to take the spring down and work on the rack from underneath the crossmember.
Anyone ever encounter a problem like that?
I asked if thought the crossmember needed to be replaced or at least drilled out so a sleave could be inserted into the oval hole. He wanted to assess the situation once the rack is free from the crossmember. That sucker is tight in the crossmember, and you typically need a prybar, to lift up the rack.
Any advice or opinions? Thanks, in advance.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Thanks for the replies. Didn't get a picture, sorry, but your understanding is correct. The x-member ear bolt hole is oval, left to right as you look at it head on. And again you are correct, the bushing is wedged because the ears are bent in, no doubt. Is the bushing welded to the rack? I asked, he said yes.
This is a Corvette repair shop and he was being very careful. Didn't look like he was banging on anything and that's why he was looking for some extra time to go at it from underneath. Thanks again.
Car is a '99 which I bought in '01. His first question was did a stealership work on the car?
Not while I had it, maybe before I bought it.
This is a Corvette repair shop and he was being very careful. Didn't look like he was banging on anything and that's why he was looking for some extra time to go at it from underneath. Thanks again.
Car is a '99 which I bought in '01. His first question was did a stealership work on the car?
Not while I had it, maybe before I bought it.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
A few members have broken off the ears and had them welded back on . Its should be no big deal for a compemtent weld shop to bring the hole back to the OEM centered diameter.
BC
BC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Thanks for the reply Bill. I know he'll eventually get the rack free from the x-member and although this is a little beyond my experience, I asked about next steps and how to treat the oval hole. My concern too and why I originally posted was since the ear hole is no longer round, I asked him does the hole need a sleeve, an insert (or another fix) so as to keep the bolt from moving side to side. He was being cautious and I don't blame him but his initial thought was proper torque should keep it from moving. Personally, I'm not so sure about that.
I'm sure he'd like to get the car off the lift and another in the bay. there were several C4s,C5s and a TestaRosa all waiting to fixed.
I'll post again after his assessment but seems like your opinion is to get a welder to fix the ear if he doesn't.
I'm sure he'd like to get the car off the lift and another in the bay. there were several C4s,C5s and a TestaRosa all waiting to fixed.
I'll post again after his assessment but seems like your opinion is to get a welder to fix the ear if he doesn't.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Lucky, I didn't think the bushing was welded to the rack, that's why I'm asking. He said they tried lifting the rack with a prybar but it didn't move. Maybe I'm wrong but from the number of Corvettes waiting for repair, I don't think this was about getting paid for a few more labor hours, looks like he has plenty work without me. What's your opinion, if you aren't buying it. What do you think this is about? Is it turning 4.2 labor hours into 8, 10, or whatever? Or something else. Thanks for the opinion.
Last edited by Florida99; Feb 23, 2011 at 05:49 PM.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,456
Likes: 1,164
From: Dyer, IN
Lucky, I didn't think the bushing was welded to the rack, that's why I'm asking. He said they tried lifting the rack with a prybar but it didn't move. Maybe I'm wrong but from the number of Corvettes waiting for repair, I don't think this was about getting paid for a few more labor hours, looks like he has plenty work without me. What's your opinion, if you aren't buying it. What do you think this is about? Thanks for the opinion.
I don't know what it's about, because you are asking for opinions sight unseen. Pictures are worth a thousand words. Without being there, it's just speculation on my part. Either way, you have two holes, that are in the rack, and in the crossmember. Both are slip/clearance fit. If the rack moved from side to side, in such a violent fashion, that the passenger side hole elongated, then the drivers side hole should have the same elongation. Just because they have corvettes lined up to be worked on.......means nothing.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Ok, thank you for your time and opinion. That little voice inside has me thinking this is about making the problem seem more complicated than what it is and extending time for work that may or may not be done. I'll post what happens.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
That hole is oval from the factory. There is a rubber bushing with a sleeve inside it on the passenger side of the rack. The bolt crushes the aluminum ears down onto that thin sleeve which means you have to spread the ears a bit to get the sleeve loose.
The drivers side is a solid bushing with a round hole that locates the rack side to side. The solid bushing has a nice wide smooth surface for the bolt to squeeze the ears down onto so it doesn't bind when you take it apart.
At this point I've got to wonder if he actually does work like this on Corvettes???
Good luck, I wouldn't ever go back to a "Corvette Shop" that doesn't know this stuff.
Peter
The drivers side is a solid bushing with a round hole that locates the rack side to side. The solid bushing has a nice wide smooth surface for the bolt to squeeze the ears down onto so it doesn't bind when you take it apart.
At this point I've got to wonder if he actually does work like this on Corvettes???
Good luck, I wouldn't ever go back to a "Corvette Shop" that doesn't know this stuff.
Peter
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Peter, thanks for the reply and info. I'm not doubting you, and I do think there is something going on here but I'm not sure what. I'm trying to collect whatever I can to go back and speak with the shop in the morning. I found a (copyrighted) picture of a 97-04 C5 front cross member at http://www.corvetterecycling.com/product_p/10319530.htm. unable to copy because the image is copyrighted. I'm not arguing, I'm only asking. Is that the crossmember that supports the rack? Am I looking at the right piece? Looking at the pass side hole, it doesn't look oval. What am I missing? Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,456
Likes: 1,164
From: Dyer, IN
Peter, thanks for the reply and info. I'm not doubting you, and I do think there is something going on here but I'm not sure what. I'm trying to collect whatever I can to go back and speak with the shop in the morning. I found a (copyrighted) picture of a 97-04 C5 front cross member at http://www.corvetterecycling.com/product_p/10319530.htm. unable to copy because the image is copyrighted. I'm not arguing, I'm only asking. Is that the crossmember that supports the rack? Am I looking at the right piece? Looking at the pass side hole, it doesn't look oval. What am I missing? Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Except that's the drivers side LOL. I knew I've seen the holes in those ears slotted before.
Still, that passenger side bushing gets pressed into the ears by the bolt torque and is always a bugger to get out.
If one hole looks like the picture above and the other is round then I don't see the issue. Just pry the thing out of there and bolt it back in when the time comes.
Still, maybe some of them are slotted on the passenger side??
Peter
Still, that passenger side bushing gets pressed into the ears by the bolt torque and is always a bugger to get out.
If one hole looks like the picture above and the other is round then I don't see the issue. Just pry the thing out of there and bolt it back in when the time comes.
Still, maybe some of them are slotted on the passenger side??
Peter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 293
Likes: 8
From: South Bend IN
That hole is oval from the factory. There is a rubber bushing with a sleeve inside it on the passenger side of the rack. The bolt crushes the aluminum ears down onto that thin sleeve which means you have to spread the ears a bit to get the sleeve loose.
The drivers side is a solid bushing with a round hole that locates the rack side to side. The solid bushing has a nice wide smooth surface for the bolt to squeeze the ears down onto so it doesn't bind when you take it apart.
Peter
The drivers side is a solid bushing with a round hole that locates the rack side to side. The solid bushing has a nice wide smooth surface for the bolt to squeeze the ears down onto so it doesn't bind when you take it apart.
Peter
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
From: Coral Springs Fl
Thank you all very much for the help, your patience and for the pictures. I owe you all, big time. I have something to bring with me in the am.
(ok, I don't know how to post pictures either,
)
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,456
Likes: 1,164
From: Dyer, IN
Except that's the drivers side LOL. I knew I've seen the holes in those ears slotted before.
Still, that passenger side bushing gets pressed into the ears by the bolt torque and is always a bugger to get out.
If one hole looks like the picture above and the other is round then I don't see the issue. Just pry the thing out of there and bolt it back in when the time comes.
Still, maybe some of them are slotted on the passenger side??
Peter
Still, that passenger side bushing gets pressed into the ears by the bolt torque and is always a bugger to get out.
If one hole looks like the picture above and the other is round then I don't see the issue. Just pry the thing out of there and bolt it back in when the time comes.
Still, maybe some of them are slotted on the passenger side??
Peter
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
FYI, I went and looked at my C5 and it's not slotted on the passenger side. I'm not pulling the ABS bracket to see the drivers side though.
I also have a crossmember under a '69 Camaro. Maybe it's where I saw the slot in the passenger side ears.
So, I'm expecting this is a variation from car to car or year to year or crossmember run to crossmember run or something like that.
Peter
I also have a crossmember under a '69 Camaro. Maybe it's where I saw the slot in the passenger side ears.
So, I'm expecting this is a variation from car to car or year to year or crossmember run to crossmember run or something like that.
Peter