Hey everyone, I bought a 2002 Z06 with 13k on the clock on wednesday.

I took it to get smogged and it didn't pass because the guy said the that some systems reported "Not Ready". He told us to simply drive it around and maybe the systems will turn on because it was likely the battery had been unplugged recently.

Earlier today though the check engine light came on. I checked the DTC and the code read "P0410" which, after some research, I found to mean "Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction"

I got the code cleared (and after driving around all day today and restarting the car a few times it hasn't come back on) and it still didn't pass smog. The tech said he read:

Evaporative System - Not Ready
Secondary Air System - Not Ready
Oxygen Sensor Heater - Not ready

So after some research it seems like this issue is related to the air pump under the driver's side headlight? My questions are as follows:

Would te check valves be rusted over for a car with 13K miles that's been a garage queen most of its life (and a weekend car the rest of it)?

What relays/fuses should I look at replacing? Is there a way to visually inspect these to see if they're good?

Are there any other options available for me to make this thing pass smog? I know this doesn't affect the performance of the car at all which makes it even more annoying that it's only an emissions issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

EDIT: I forgot to say that I'm in Southern California.

 

I don't have any personal knowledge on the P0410 code or how to fix. I do know that if you cleared the code, that will indeed cause the onboard systems to show that its "not ready". This will take a number of start up cycles before it clears the not ready. I think the number was 50 cycles but I really don't remember. Someone else like Bill Curlee or Lucky will know for sure.

 

The typical issue is the check valve behind the driver's side head. This valve controls flow to the passenger side. Can you hear the pump run when the car is started cold? Also, do a search as a number of people have had this issue.

 

if you do a search for P0410 you'll come up with enough reading material to answer your every question.

 

Here is the code info. The test steps did not transfer over as they are in picture form. If you need them let me know and I will save them into a photo file and post them.


CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
A secondary air injection (AIR) pump is used on this vehicle in order to lower the tail pipe emissions during start-up. The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump.

The PCM monitors the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) voltages in order to diagnose the AIR system.

During the AIR test, the PCM activates the AIR pump during closed loop operation. When the AIR is activated, the PCM monitors the HO2S voltages, and monitors the short-term fuel trim values for both banks of the engine. If the AIR system is operating correctly, the HO2S voltages should be low, and the short-term fuel trim should be high.

If the PCM determines that the HO2S voltages for both banks did not respond with the expected results during the tests, DTC P0410 sets. If only 1 sensor responded, the PCM sets either DTC P1415 or DTC P1416. The active DTC indicates which bank has the inoperative AIR system.

CONDITIONS FOR RUNNING THE DTC


DTCs P0101-P0103, P0107, P0108, P0112, P0113, P0116, P0117, P0118, P0125, P0171-P0175, P0200, P0300, P0335, P0336, P0351-P0358, P0440, P0442, P0443, P0446, P0449, P1120, P1220, P1221, P1258, or P1441 are not set.
The fuel level is more than 12.5 percent but less than 87.5 percent .
The engine is running for more than 30 seconds .
The maximum air flow is 22 g/s .
The air fuel ratio is 13.125:1.
The engine load is less than 40 percent .
The ignition voltage is more than 11.7 volts .
Vehicle speed is more than 15 km/h (25 mph ).
The engine is not operating in any of the following modes:
Power enrichment
Decel fuel cut-off mode
The catalyst over temperature
The engine is operating in a closed loop for more than 15 seconds .
The engine speed is more than 850 RPM .
The engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between than -10°C to +110°C (14°F-230°F ).
The intake air temperature (IAT) is between -10°C to +100°C (14°F-212°F ).
The fuel system is operating in fuel trim cells 1,2,4,5, or 6.
CONDITIONS FOR SETTING THE DTC
If the AIR pump turns ON during a closed loop operation and the HO2S voltage does not fall below 222 mV for 1.3 seconds .

Or

If the AIR pump turns ON during a closed loop operation and the short-term fuel trim does not change more than a predetermined amount.

ACTION TAKEN WHEN THE DTC SETS


The control module illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) when the diagnostic runs and fails.
The control module records the operating conditions at the time the diagnostic fails. The control module stores this information in the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.
CONDITIONS FOR CLEARING THE MIL/DTC


The control module turns OFF the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) after 3 consecutive ignition cycles that the diagnostic runs and does not fail.
A current DTC, Last Test Failed, clears when the diagnostic runs and passes.
A history DTC clears after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles, if no failures are reported by this or any other emission related diagnostic.
Clear the MIL and the DTC with a scan tool.
DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

IMPORTANT:


Before you service the PCM or the throttle actuator control (TAC), remove any debris from the module connector surfaces, and from the module connector gaskets. Verify that the gaskets are correctly installed. The gaskets prevent debris from contaminating the modules.







For any test that requires probing the PCM or probing a component harness connector, use the Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A. Using this kit prevents damage to the component terminals and to the harness. Refer to Using Connector Test Adapters in Diagnostic Aids.
For an intermittent condition, refer to Intermittent Conditions. See: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview\Diagnostic Strategies\Intermittent Conditions
An intermittent may be caused by any of the following conditions:
Low system air flow may cause this DTC to set.
Excessive exhaust system back pressure
Moisture, water or debris ingested into the AIR pump
Pinched, kinked, heat damaged, or deteriorated hoses or vacuum lines
Restrictions in the pump inlet, duct, or filter
An AIR pump that has become inoperative and shows signs of exhaust gases in the outlet port would indicate a check valve failure.
Thoroughly check any circuitry that is suspected of causing the intermittent complaint. Refer to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections.
If a repair is necessary, refer to Wiring Repairs or Connector Repairs.
TEST DESCRIPTION

Steps 1-7





Steps 8-18





Steps 19-30





The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.


If DTCs P0412 or P0418 are set, diagnose those DTCs first.
Inspects for excess resistance in all of the circuits that are associated with the AIR system.
This step tests for the battery voltage at the AIR pump relay.
This step tests for power to the AIR pump.
This step tests the ground circuit for the AIR pump.
This step tests for a grounded circuit between the AIR pump and the AIR pump relay.
A restriction in a hose or in a pipe, between the shut-off valve and the point where the system branches to each bank, causes the setting of this DTC. Inspect for kinks or for blockages from the AIR pump to the connection point where the AIR system divides.










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Thanks for all the help so far guys!

I had a question about cleaning the check valves. from my understanding this is what I should do:

- Take out the air inlet hose (the part towards the firewall)
- Spray carb sleaner inside it
- reconnect it and let it run
- take it out again and spray WD-40 inside it
- reconnect and let it run

is this right?

I'm not the most mechanically experienced person so please bear with me.

 

when i cold started the car today I could hear a pump running under the driver's side headlight so I'm relatively sure teh pump is working. The car is a 2002 C5Z with 13K. Are you saying that there's no point to cleaning the check valves?

I did read that I may need to replace some relays in the engine compartment but now for the life of me can't find that thread that gave me the relay numbers (I remember one was #33). Also, is there a way to visually inspect the relays to see if they're bad?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

"Disconnect the tubing from the pump to the left bank valve connection."

I'm really sorry but can you show me where that is by any chance? Will i need a lift? I have access to a lift at my friends shop if that will help me out.

 

Here are the diagnostic steps that could not be posted earlier if you still need them.

 

All great stuff and welcome to C 5 world. My 1998 did the same thing with 14k on the clock. You can go through all of the above but for a few bucks you can find a reputable tuner and have the parameters in the computer changed so that the whole process is by passed electronically and you never have the issue again. I replaced the pump, did the clean outs, checked the wires etc., but at the end of the day I had a tuner fix the problem. The system does nothing to reduce emissions and this will not affect your ability to get an inspection. Good luck.

 

If you just bought it, talk to them and see if they will get the problem fixed. Probably cleared all the codes so that the CEL would be off for the sale. On the other side it depends on the seller, whether you want them working on it or not???

 

I cleared the CEL when I took it in. There was only one code showing before that and it was already taken care of.

I pulled the hose today and started the car and there was no air blowing out of it at all.

So I'm thinking:

- Clean hose (is the method i posted above right?)
- Switch relay (i might be mistaken about hearing the pump)
- If above two don't work then pull the pump and replace it?

Is my method of thinking correct or is there something I'm missing?

Thanks again for the help guys.

 

hmmm . . . it seems like this is going beyond my abilities mechanically (mainly because I can't read the schematics you posted lol) so it looks like I may have to take it into Gulstrand Motorsports here in Burbank and have them look at it.

Not something I wanted to do but oh well . . .

 

I understand man and GREALY appreciate your help. Maybe I'll try again to see if the pump is running by listening to it but I don't understand what you mean by checking the ground. I'm assuming I'll need one of those volt checking tools correct (dunno what it's called)? Maybe I'll stop by my friend's shop and see if i can use his tools then see if i can actually fin the ground wire lol.

The pump only starts up during cold-starts right?

 

would i need to pull the front bumper and HL assembly?

 

To check the ground/get to the air pump.

 

got it, what's that program you're using if you don't mind me asking? seems like it may come in handy.