I'm coming from the fbody world, still have my '99 and 2000 Z28s, the '99 has a Moser 12 bolt and my 2000 has the factory 10 bolt with 2.73s (its my DD and I love the MPGs). I know all about the 7.5" 10 bolt and it's lack of reliability performance related. I knew what I was getting into, with the C5 and the IRS, but man, this wheel-hop is absolutely terrible in first gear! It seems like when I short shift to second, I can spin all day, come to the brink of traction, finally bite, and the wheel hop never even begins to arise. Regardless, it's there. I'm tossed between scrapping my '99 build, and building the C5, but I need to see what the potential solutions are for the trans-axle wheel hop. The fbody guys go for the 12 bolt/9"/Dana 60, but what about the C5 guys here? I don't want to dump money into this factory unit if they're not known to be able to handle 550-600rwhp reliably.

 

Me and my friend have horrible wheel hop in our vetts too mine is probley due to the 4.10 gears i put in the rear end but my friend told me about two different transmission and rear diff braces that should take care of the wheel hop I have no solid prof but that is the route im taking check out http://www.pfadtracing.com/catalog/ best of luck

 

Heard COIL OVERS help out alot in that department.

 

Big, fat, sticky tires.

 

Yea man Like LSGUN said above pfadt transbrace is what you want.Their brace is $350 and for many users it eliminates almost ALL wheel-hop. The ECS/DTE brace you'll hear about serves a different purpose,but does strengthen up your driveline.

BTW theres a brand new trans brace for $315 shipped in the F/S section

 

NEW BIG FAT STICKY TIRES

old tires, more then 2 years old, do not still well.

 

WHEEL HOP:

I don’t think that there is ONE "MAGIC" cure all for wheel hop. If there was, I think GM and all the other performance platforms out there that experience wheel hop (there are many out there that do) would have already incorporated it.

I had a BASE SUSPENSION, F-45 MN6 98 Coupe. MAN,,,,,,,, it had HORRIBLE wheel hop
It was a chore to do a power launch and control the hop. I learned to live with it. I never did ANY mods to my 98 to help control it. However, I did learn to manage it.

When you do a power launch, instead of quickly releasing the clutch and shocking the drive train, try this: Load the drive train by, ever so slightly bring the clutch pedal up to the point where you feel it start to engage the flywheel and before it moves the car,, Then release the clutch. Just preloading the drive train really helped control the hop on my 98. It did not eliminate it but significantly reduced it.

I purchased a new 02 ZO6 in 02. One of the things that I was concerned about was WHEEL HOP. Surprising enough, wheel hop was NOT a serious issue on my ZO6. It happens but very infrequently.

IMPROVING the SUSPENSION: The ZO6 has improved suspension components:

ZO6 Shocks
Higher rate Springs
Higher rate anti sway bars
Metal Sway Bar End Links
Better wider, Non Run Flat Tires

My ZO6 drives SOOOO much better that the 98 ever did. I learned to HATE the F-45 Real Time Dampening/BASE Suspension . If you have base suspension, up-grading to better components may be what you need to improve it. I subconsciously still do the drive train preloading before a hard launch or burn out.

One improvement that significantly improved my 02 ZO6 driving/handling performance was the addition of C6 ZO6 Shocks. MUCH MUCH better in emergent maneuvering (high speed turns)

So,, to sum it up; If you have a base suspension, up-grade to Z-51 or ZO6 suspension stuff. The addition of the pfadt transbrace has been touted as a proven improvement in the wheel hop area. I have never had or driven a car with coil over’s so I cannot comment on that improvement.

Strangely enough, to add facts to the above info, my 06 Z-51 MN6 coupe also was not plagued with hop either.
I sold that and purchases an 2011 MN6 Grand Sport Vert. I’ve given it hell a couple of times and have not experienced any wheel hop.

 

I have the C6 Z06 suspension and the DTE brace in my 03 C5 and feel no hop. Good luck.

 

I agree with Bill--- Best way to start without spending a ton of cash would be to:
1. install a solid trans mount
2. install poly rear sway bar bushings
3. install rear METAL end links ( from a newr Z06 or aftermarket )
4. intall a larger diameter rear sway bar
5. Get a rear end allignment
6. Run the tires down to about 14-16 PSI
7. Get some drag radials (if possible 16 or 17" rims= larger sidewall for more "wrinkle affect ")
8. remove FRONT sway bar--- (race only)
9. Old sch trick is to loosen the front shock upper nuts to allow more lift in the front (race only)

Too many launches with wheel hop will eventually break the output shafts in your differential !!!!!

 

Well, what is your primary concern? Wheel hop or rearend strength?

Just because you have a built rearend, doesn't mean wheel hop won't occur.

If you want to reduce wheel hop potential you will need to reduce movement of the drivetrain and suspension.
You can install poly or solid control arm bushings, poly or solid motor mounts, transmission and/or differential brace, etc.
New tires can help with traction, but it is still a different issu than what is causing the wheel hop.

Even wide sticky tires will hop, and probably more so than narrow bald tires.

The cause of wheel hop is not a matter of traction though.

Let us know what you end up doing.

I think for my vert I will be installing solid motor mounts, poly bushings, and most likely a differential brace (from Pfadt, or what ever their name is, lol).

 

The first "solution" would be to do a search for the dozensa of other threads that have lots of opinions and input on the wheel hop issue.

Peter

 

Wow, thanks for all the replies! Interesting to know that all the C6Z components are easily interchangeable, that was not something I was aware of. I'm more-so concerned about rear-end strength than the wheel-hop, so I should have pointed that out in the beginning. I have no experience with IRS cars, just have heard a bunch about the "wheel-hop issue" that seems to plague the C5s when I was searching for one. And it's just been my experience through the years, that wheel-hop is a major cause of breakage. I just thought they went hand in hand. I'll be another 2-3 weeks out before I start ordering parts but it looks like the transbrace I may have to order tomorrow

Thanks for all the pointers, and I'll keep you guys updated

 

HA! Here are TWO FANTASTIC post that will soak some cash out of your wallet.. There a have to do up-grade!! I just did them:

- C5, Its Go Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573404441

- C5 RAGTOPWS6, Differential UP-Grade; http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html

Bill

 

Yep, we tried. Control wheelspin by modulating the power, and you win.

 

if you keep dumping the clutch... brace or no brace your going to tear some **** up.... learn to launch the car without wheel hop There are one million threads on this.... read up

 

 

Believe it or not, I have yet to dump the clutch... hell, I haven't even tried to launch it. It still has the Goodyear runflats all the way around. My '99 Z has a few suspension upgrades with 275 MT ETs (H/C & juice) and still spins on the street from a first gear roll out, at instant WOT, with no spray. BUT.... it's a camaro. 12 bolt (4.30s), no stall yet, and an upgraded 4L60E. This C5 is my baby, and with the wheel-hop I've already experienced, I'm not even going to try to launch from a dead stop until I get some tire and rear upgrades in it. Right now, the damn thing has officially pissed me off with overheating and no crank issues today

Bill - Thanks for those links!

 

The NO CRANK issue is "most likely" caused by a BAD STARTER SOLENOID! If it wont start,,,,,, find a way to BUMP the starter while someone holds it in the START condition. If it starts, its either a bad connection at the solenoid or a BAD solenoid.

As for the overheat issue,,, make sure the radiator air inlet is clean and then remove the plastic cover over the top of the AC Condensor/Radiator and look in the one inch space between the radiator and condensor. I bet it full of CRAP!

BC