Yeah, I did that a few hours ago, everything checked out fine. Almost as if the battery cables are too tight, but I'm not sure I'd believe you could damage a battery by over-tightening the cables? I would think you'd strip something, before that would occur? It appears to be a brand new battery, gauge reads nearly 12 volts, and the connections are extremely tight...

I'll check under it tomorrow though

 

The clutch interlock switch is located on the floor below the clutch pedal. If you can unplug the connector from the switch and put a jumper wire between the two connector wires, then that should bypass the switch (ie, make the computer think the switch is closed).

 

Thanks! I'll try that tomorrow

 

It's not the interlock switch. Your gauges would not go haywire, like yours do.

 

I'm betting ignition switch is bad.

 

I've had a gut feeling it's the ignition switch. I just got home from work, going to the dealer to pick it up (or order it, if not in stock), and make it a point to the SM that I'll never buy another vehicle from them again. If it wasn't for the nearest GM dealer being miles and miles away otherwise, I wouldn't be going back for parts

 

So are you just going to roll the dice, or troubleshoot? I don't see any posts about voltage checks.....unless you have not included that info.

 

Where should I start? I ordered the switch today, should be in Wednesday. I'd like to troubleshoot, but I really need to get a shop manual for this thing...

 

Every schematic you need has been posted on this forum..many..many times. There are tons of "no start" threads....if you search. All you really need is a meter.

This is also a good overview:

http://www.c5help.com/c5_no_start.htm

 

Thanks lucky!

 

I'm looking at the wiring diagram in the service manual. When you turn the key to start, you have +12 V thru Maxi-Fuse#50 to the ign switch. thru the switch, then thru another fuse in the other fuse panel, Maxi fuse #14. Then the circuit goes thru the clutch switch. This energizes the coil of the theft deterrent relay (also controlled by the BCM). once the theft deterrent relay energizes, it's contacts close, and if Fuse 52 is good, I think you have current to the starter solenoid.

Why I mentioned the clutch switch is that I found myself not pushing the clutch all the way in and getting the same response you get on your instrument cluster, half the lights go out. First time it happened, was right after I installed a CLB. I was 400 mi from home and nearly dropped a load in the old DEPENDS area. Mr Lucky is right, a little trouble shooting may save you some money and hard feelings about the seller.

 

I've tried starting this thing 40-50 times at minimum, I've lost count really. BUT, I will try to go out there again, and see what I get this time. I'll go ahead and do the jumper wire test since it shouldn't even take 2 minutes. One thing I've done search after search for, is the proper way to jack the C5. Somebody told me I had to open the doors, but my search results showed that it's not necessary, only on the C4s. Guess I'll check my owner's manual and see what it says. Oh, and hard feelings about the dealer will NEVER change. I felt I was screwed over years ago by them, but gave them another shot, since I fell in love with the car they had just gotten in, the one I have now. I won't go back, after the several conversations I've had with the 3 people there. over the past few weeks

 

The best thing to do, is connect your meter(or test light) at the TDR, so you test everything from the ignition switch to the TDR.




From the DIY sticky above:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-pads.html

 

Use schematic in this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...s-problem.html

 

I just went out that turned the ign to start on my 2000 mn6. Had the clutch pushed half way in, and I got exactly the same response you get in your video. Instrument cluster voltmeter goes to zero and everything goes silent. So, I would lean toward a stuck solenoid. If you look at the wiring diagram the previous poster pointed out, you can see that the clutch switch prevents energization of the TDR. If you think the TDR is operating, then there is not much else in the circuit, except some fuses.

So try this, see if it changes (doesn't click). Since you think the TDR is energizing, try turning the starter with the clutch halfway in. If you don't hear the click, you talked about in your earlier post, then you have just about eliminated both the TDR and the clutch switch. This is where you really need a volt meter. You really need to know if you are getting +12 to the solenoid. Best place, would be, of course at the solenoid, but if you jack up the car, might as well give the solenoid a light tap to see if it is hung up. Don't be thinking about your dealer when you swing the attention getter, though.

If you are getting +12v, at the solenoid, then you are facing a starter take-out.

PM sent.

 

Battery went dead. Was going to try to swap out batteries in one of my LS1 Z's, but couldn't find ANY of my 8mm wrenches. And I don't have a 8mm socket either, imagine that. Sent the GF out to get jumper cables. Awaiting her return. I'm taking off from work one day later on in the week, if I can't get this thing solved tonight or tomorrow

PM replied

 

It sounds like a bad battery and not a loose cable.

 

It could be that the cable bolt is bad. They can be changed out. You can buy new bolts at any car parts place. They are a pain to replace. Before you put new ones on, though, take a 3/8 coarse tap and chase the threads on the battery. Then use a die and chase the threads on the new bolts {ask me how i know). While you are at it, clean all the crud out of the insulator and make sure the contact points in the metal cable lug inside the insulation are doing their job. They bite into the battery terminal post. You will have to straighten out the lug just a bit because the bolt removal will distort it. Fix it before putting the bolt back in.

To get the old bolts out, partially thread a 3/8 nut onto the end of the bolt. Then get a socket that will clear the plastic ridge on the insulation on the opposite side. Put the socket over the bolt head opposite the nut. Then squeeze the nut and the socket to push the bolt into the socket. Grease up the new bolt with dieelectric grease and pry the edges of the insulation of the terminal with a screwdriver around to get the flange back into the plastic.

 

Or a flaky pos. solenoid connection.

Btw, that small hex on the side post GM terminals is 5/16", not 8mm. It may be that a 8mm just happens to also fit, but these GM battery side-post bolts have been 5/16" since God was a small boy.

 

i agree with the possibility of a bad connection. If it is either the solenoid or the power to the motor, once the connection gets hot or arcs even a little you have a bad connection until you clean up to bright metal. Same holds true at the battery Just 'cause it is tight does not mean it is a good electrical connection. 'Just means it is tight, thats all. AND sometimes, a loose connection is not necessarily a BAD connection. Will be bad soon, though.