What is this? I've tried the "re-learning" procedure, with cycling the key on and off 3 times and it didn't work. I'm leaning towards ignition switch possibilities, but I'm following the C5help.com tutorial, but it doesn't show any info as to what this code is. Any help?

Edit: I forgot to list that I'm getting 3 other codes, but they're all "H" history codes. I guess this would not affect my current problem?

 

No such code. You must mean a "U1064"...not "V1064". Please list all codes...current and history.

 

BC

 

Ok, got the codes today... I know "H" means history, but figured I'd report back with my findings, in case any of these may somehow be related to what my cause is for a no start condition.

60 - IPC B1527 H (can't find anything on this)
A1 - RDCM B2283 H (Battery #1 Circuit)
B2285 H (Battery #2 Circuit)
U1064 H (can't find anything on this)

I'm assuming the battery codes are because of low voltage? Haven't a clue... I know my battery is good, it's brand new, and my gauge is reading strong. Not sure if I should just go to the dealer tomorrow and get the ignition switch and try it or what?

 

Took the hard carpet cover off the passenger footwell, along with the plastic fuse panel cover, held the key in the "START" position, pumped the clutch 4 or 5 times and heard it click. Did this procedure twice. Clicked both times. So I believe the TDR to be good. When I unlock the car, the Security light flashes. When I put the key in the run position, it ceases, so I believe the PASS system is good. And like I said, I've already done the 3 cycle - 15 minute "re-learning" period for the VATS. I actually did that procedure twice. I'm sort of stuck at a loss.

I've been following another member's thread and everyone else's responses, to be applying those suggestions to my own dilemna. Next step is to bring home my 12 volt tester from the shop tomorrow. Just not sure where I should start. I sent Bill a PM since he seems to be pretty knowledgeable with this stuff, but also am open to everyone else's suggestions as well.

At first, I thought it may have been the one key, since it wouldn't start a week or two ago and I was at home. Ran inside, grabbed the spare, and it started right up. The other night, I had the same problem, with both keys. Waited a few hours, it started right up. Next morning... nothing. Now it won't start at all, no matter if it's 38 degrees outside first thing in the morning, or almost 60 degrees during the day. (Not that it means anything).

Sooooo...... what to do next? I'm so frustrated, I'm BEYOND pissed! I have a 3 mo/3k mile powertrain warranty, and my throwout bearing has begun to make noise. I took it to the dealer, let their "corvette tech" drive it, and he said the noise is definately there. He talked to the sales manager, and the SM told me, they won't touch it because it's not broke. And "when/if that time comes, we'll address the situation at that point". I even let the SM drive it too, and the words "... yeah, that sounds like ****..." is exactly what came out of his mouth. So in a round-about way, I'm getting the feeling that they just don't want to fix it regardless, unless I pay out of pocket. The only reason why I'm bringing this up, is because I don't want the dealer touching ANYTHING on my vette, since they know there's an arising problem, but don't want to touch it until I have to pay them for the costs involved in doing so. I've had big plans for this car since day 1, but I can't even begin to mod it until I can figure out what the problem is with getting it to start. I'm frustrated! Just needed to vent.........

 

I dont know much on your issues, but i read on here somewhere about cleaning the keys contact point with rubbing alcohol. again may have nothing to do with your issues but it cant hurt anything to try since you mentioned the keys

good luck
Steve

 

Yeah, I forgot to mention that I cleaned both keys with a pencil eraser, spent almost 5 minutes on the both of them, wiped them both down with rubbing alcohol, stuck them in front of a fan for almost a minute, and still got nothing when I tried to start it

 

does it crank over or just dead if dead did you check your grounds thats another one to check . just trying to throw some things out there in case you have not covered

 

You may have a good point

It doesn't crank at all. In fact, when I turn it to the "START" position, my voltage gauge goes all the way to 0. What grounds are there to check? I read somewhere a week ago when I joined the forum, that there were 12 or 13 some grounds through the body on these things. Do you have link or schematic or anything that would show where the ground points are on the car for me to check?

 

Is the yellow "Security" light on the instrument cluster turned on or flashing after you try to start the car?

 

Found the ground points in Bill's sticky

I know that if the battery cable(s) is loose enough, that when you turn the key to the "RUN" position, everything will seem fine. When you attempt to "START" everything will go dead, and the voltage gauge will drop to zero. I just can't remember, that when the key returns to the "RUN" position, if everything returns back to normal operation. Because this is what it's doing in my vette.

So would this be the same as if it were to have a bad ground connection somewhere?

 

I just took a video, gimme a sec to post it up

 

http://s955.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=P3130609.mp4

 

u1064 loss of comm with BCM.

 

Well, as you can see in the video, if I left enough room in between attempts to start, all the lights on the dash illuminate after they returns from the "START" position, back to the "RUN" position. What the video didn't show, was after 3-4 seconds, all the lights will go out, except for the Check engine light, check gauges light, seatbelt, and brake light. The seatbelt light is a given, and the brake light is also a given, since my Ebrake stays up (M6). Check gauges light, I'm unsure of, and the Check engine light I'm unsure of. But the Security light will go out with the rest of the lights. Hopefully this helps you in helping me

 

Awesome... with it being "H" for a past code, I wonder if this ties in with my current issue?

 

maybe the clutch switch? If you don't have the clutch pedal all the way in, I think it looks like vour video.

 

If the Security light goes off after the key is back to the ON position (after a start attempt), and if there are no security related DTCs then it's safe to say it's not caused by the PASS Key or security system.

 

Have you tried replacing the battery or checking the condition of the battery ?

I would also check the surrounding area and make sure the battery did not leak any fluid (acid) on to your wiring.

After that, check your battery cables and ground cable for tightness. It seems when you put a load on it, all of your power is drained.

 

Is there a way to temporarily bypass this, so I can see if it is the switch?