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So in the middle of my header install I noticed that a part of the wiring loom is totally fried. It must have been sitting on the exhaust manifold or downpipe for awhile.
When I touched it the plastic basically crumbled and revealed bare messed up wires. (see pictures)
My question is this. Should I repair the wires as is by wrapping in electrical tape or should I cut out all the bad wiring and replace it then shrink wrap it back up?
I'm a little hesitant to cut into a main harness especially for a sensor but it seems to be cut and dry if I go that route.
I would replace each wire, one at a time...carefully. Use heat-shrink tubing around each. Use either butt splices or solder them together. Make absolutely sure you've disconnected the battery before touching them or them touching the frame.
I would replace each wire, one at a time...carefully. Use heat-shrink tubing around each. Use either butt splices or solder them together. Make absolutely sure you've disconnected the battery before touching them or them touching the frame.
That's what I'm leaning towards. Right now I'm seeing if I can get in there to solder them rather than use but connectors. I don't trust those things. Yes, the batter has been completely disconnected. Thanks for the help!
Originally Posted by lucky131969
Looks like the crank sensor wiring. Good thing you found it......it would have left you stranded for sure.
Ya right? As much as a PITA this is going to be I'm glad I found it before something went wrong. Then I'd be banging my head trying to figure it out!
I'm not sure I have wire that is that thin, do you think using wire that is a tad bit bigger is going to matter? Or should I run out and get some of the same gauge wire?
I'm not sure I have wire that is that thin, do you think using wire that is a tad bit bigger is going to matter? Or should I run out and get some of the same gauge wire?
According to the schematic, that is 22 gauge wire. Going a little bigger is not an issue, but it can make it difficult to splice together two different sizes. That being said, soldering(my preference for this location) the connections(using an overlap method), and sealing with an enviromental(self sealing) heat shrink should do the trick.
According to the schematic, that is 22 gauge wire. Going a little bigger is not an issue, but it can make it difficult to splice together two different sizes. That being said, soldering(my preference for this location) the connections(using an overlap method), and sealing with an enviromental(self sealing) heat shrink should do the trick.
Wow, thank you very much for that info. I might just run out to the parts store and get the correct wiring.
Def going to go the solder and shrink wrap route! Do it right.
I would be tempted to just get some heat shrink on each wire Vs trying to splice them. You didn't seem to have any problems from the wires themselves yet so I doubt the bare wire itself has been harmed. Do as little work as you can get by with. I had some wires in an area like this on an early model Corvette that I could never get soldered correctly so I like to go with minimally invasive repairs since that fiasco.
I would be tempted to just get some heat shrink on each wire Vs trying to splice them. You didn't seem to have any problems from the wires themselves yet so I doubt the bare wire itself has been harmed. Do as little work as you can get by with. I had some wires in an area like this on an early model Corvette that I could never get soldered correctly so I like to go with minimally invasive repairs since that fiasco.
Bill
.....and how do you get the heat shrink on the wire, without cutting it?
Butt splices used with the proper crimper are very effective. A little use of some liquid tape on the ends will prevent any corrosion issues, heat shrink over it all will seal it up nicely. Soldering is better of course but it all depends on your access.
Butt splices used with the proper crimper are very effective.
I agree, provided they are of the aerospace/environmental variety. Automotive(type typically found at your local auto parts store) butt splices are crap, and crimpers are on the same level. Considering the location, the sensor impacted, and ease of access to the repair, I would not use a butt splice in this area.......just my unprofessional opinion.
Went out and bought the correct size wiring and got to soldering. I extended the wires some like suggested so hopefully this won't happen again. Everything is heat shrinked twice over.
My back is killing me from hanging over the fender trying to solder the wires back in. Got it done and think I'm good. Here are some pictures I took along the way. Only thing I need to get now is some high temp loom which a place down the street carries. Then back to finishing the header install.
Thanks for all the suggestions/help along the way. Its appreciated.
I agree, provided they are of the aerospace/environmental variety. Automotive(type typically found at your local auto parts store) butt splices are crap, and crimpers are on the same level. Considering the location, the sensor impacted, and ease of access to the repair, I would not use a butt splice in this area.......just my unprofessional opinion.
I have to agree 100% with LUCKY.... When you using wiring that is used to transmit low voltage signals its CRITICAL to use a wire repair that can NOT become compromised by a corroded connection.
I have seen stranded sheaved copper wires that have been exposed to moisture and air from a tiny hole in the outer wiring jacket turn to green powder in less than a year..
Your were 100% correct to cut out the damaged wire and replace it with new wire. Soldering the joints is really the most correct method of repair. Other wise you risk degradation of the connection over time.
I found some aluminized foil covered canvas that I use as a heat shield. I use some thin nylon mat insulation and that foil/canvas covering to make harness covers, starter heat shields, AC Compressor heat shields and AC line heat shields....
My fantastic Wife sews it in any configuration that I need!! I have wiring covers on all my O2 sensor extension harnesses and have made several starter heat shields with it.
I think I went the right route by taking the time to cut out the wire and replace it. Especially with it being a critical sensor I don't want to run into any trouble down the road. Solder assures me that it won't come loose and the heat shrink sealed it up nice. I'm just glad I was able to get in there with a soldering iron! Talk about tight!
I have to agree 100% with LUCKY.... When you using wiring that is used to transmit low voltage signals its CRITICAL to use a wire repair that can NOT become compromised by a corroded connection.
I have seen stranded sheaved copper wires that have been exposed to moisture and air from a tiny hole in the outer wiring jacket turn to green powder in less than a year..
Your were 100% correct to cut out the damaged wire and replace it with new wire. Soldering the joints is really the most correct method of repair. Other wise you risk degradation of the connection over time.
I found some aluminized foil covered canvas that I use as a heat shield. I use some thin nylon mat insulation and that foil/canvas covering to make harness covers, starter heat shields, AC Compressor heat shields and AC line heat shields....
My fantastic Wife sews it in any configuration that I need!! I have wiring covers on all my O2 sensor extension harnesses and have made several starter heat shields with it.
BC
That sounds pretty cool Bill! You should go into business with the wife! I know we all could use that stuff.
I agree, provided they are of the aerospace/environmental variety. Automotive(type typically found at your local auto parts store) butt splices are crap, and crimpers are on the same level. Considering the location, the sensor impacted, and ease of access to the repair, I would not use a butt splice in this area.......just my unprofessional opinion.
I agree with you completely and they are the only ones that I use...aerospace quality, specifically the type used in thermal vacuum.