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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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Default help fluid and squeeling belts

I have been driving the vette the last few days after not having it out for a while and noticed on start up i get a squealing noise (this is new) so I thought it was belts but this AM I looked under the car and saw some redish fluid. thin and oily like so I am thinking it is antifreeze and may be my water pump is going?

car is 2000 and has 41K on it. seems odd it would go but maybe because it sat so much?

How much to have someone to the pump?
Is this something i can do my self?

I have done trucks and jeeps etc and other cars but the vette scares me.

I am trying to see where it is leaking from but cannot. I see fluid or a substance on the bottom frame rail and places due to it being slung around by the belt so hard to pin point where it is leaking from,


Any diagrams and thoughts would be appreciated.

I found this thread

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=129941

Last edited by CJ454; Mar 20, 2011 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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Clean up the area and start the car. If you can get under it, look for the leak. Check hose connections first before going straight to the pump itself. If it "is" the pump.... its very simple to r&r.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:35 AM
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If you can change a water pump on the JEEP,,,,you can surely change the one on an LS engine! I have 4 jeeps. I would know for sure!

The car has been sitting for a long time. The metal stellite sealing surfaces in the pump are most likely dirty, see if the leak will stop. Theres a small weep hole on the snout of the pump. Its inside that black pulley and difficult to see. Thats most likely where its leaking from..

Give it a few days of driving. Re-Fill the expansion tank, take it for a drive and see if the leak stops. If it doesn't, pumps are easy and inexpensive. Give it a try.

BC
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
If you can change a water pump on the JEEP,,,,you can surely change the one on an LS engine! I have 4 jeeps. I would know for sure!

The car has been sitting for a long time. The metal stellite sealing surfaces in the pump are most likely dirty, see if the leak will stop. Theres a small weep hole on the snout of the pump. Its inside that black pulley and difficult to see. Thats most likely where its leaking from..

Give it a few days of driving. Re-Fill the expansion tank, take it for a drive and see if the leak stops. If it doesn't, pumps are easy and inexpensive. Give it a try.

BC
Stellite, on an aluminum casting?
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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The sealing surfaces are either ceramic or stellite. Never had a LS pump apart but, 90 percent of the pumps that I have dissected have been stellite. Yes, even in an aluminum housing.

What do you thing they use???

BC
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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so put the car on ramps to look for the leak and i dont see anything on the pump looks bone dry.
i see some fluid on the frame rail but nothing looking like its dripping.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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It drips on the inside of the pulley and gets slung out from there.. Clean everything really good and let her sit over night. In the morning, look under the pulley. If its leaking, it will be dripping off the bottom of the black pulley.

BC
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The sealing surfaces are either ceramic or stellite. Never had a LS pump apart but, 90 percent of the pumps that I have dissected have been stellite. Yes, even in an aluminum housing.

What do you thing they use???

BC
Never heard of it used for this automotive application. The only use for stellite in automobile engines that I've heard of is hard facing the exhaust valve seats, I'm not saying it does not exist, I've just never seen it.
Stellite (cobalt, chrome, tungsten, iron alloy) is expensive and it's applied by welding or thermal spray, it's melting point is much higher than aluminum. The main applications that I know of are hardfacing seats and sealing areas exposed high pressure and temperature and cutting tool manufacturing. For example, stelliting is used extensively in high pressure conventional and nuclear power plant components, the Navy frequently uses it on these components. Years ago before the decision was made to give away all of our internal repair capabilities to the private sector, I had welders and machinery repairmen that were qualified to apply this material.

Last edited by ipuig; Mar 20, 2011 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:17 PM
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update: I DONT SEE ANYTHING.. wrong.. I checked the pump and hoses top to bottom and dont see anything leaking. I cleaned up all the surfaces as best as i could and put the car facing on a slight down grade to see if that would help. I may need to run it till its at temp and builds pressure to see if anything comes out.

I now have check engine but I am guessing that because i removed the airbox to get access to everything. I will check that later.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
It drips on the inside of the pulley and gets slung out from there.. Clean everything really good and let her sit over night. In the morning, look under the pulley. If its leaking, it will be dripping off the bottom of the black pulley.

BC

Ok just saw this. I will let it site again over night after i run it for a bit to build up pressure.

will post what i find.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ454
Ok just saw this. I will let it site again over night after i run it for a bit to build up pressure.

will post what i find.
Best way to find the leak in my opinion will be to elevate the car, pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester and look for where the leak is coming from with a flashlight. You have a better chance of finding it while the engine is cold with the cooling system under pressure. Small leaks may evaporate immediately while the system is hot.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ipuig
Best way to find the leak in my opinion will be to elevate the car, pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester and look for where the leak is coming from with a flashlight. You have a better chance of finding it while the engine is cold with the cooling system under pressure. Small leaks may evaporate immediately while the system is hot.
good idea but i dont have that kind of equipment. wish i could do it that way .. cold engine/water better than hot for sure
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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I had the exact same symptoms as you about a year ago and it was the water pump. I had the dealer install a new one and had a new belts put in while it was there. Total cost was 600.00 (give or take). The tech at the dealer told me that when the pump starts to fail it leaks coolant from a hole or port on the pump and acts as an indicator that the pump is starting to fail. I'm not an expert on water pumps and I assume what he told me was correct. If you can do it yourself you'll save a bundle, good luck bro!
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ454
good idea but i dont have that kind of equipment. wish i could do it that way .. cold engine/water better than hot for sure
You can rent pressure testers from your local auto parts supply stores.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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ok say it is the pump I have red antifreeze in the car. They say it calls for GM dexcool that is orangeish.

do i have to drain all the red out and put all new orange or will the 2 mix OK. I plan on draining and replacing tstat and pump etc. But do I need to flush the block/system to get all the coolant out?

What is the red stuff called? or is that just dexcool from that time frame and now its orange?

oh an shameless plug my car was featured on March Autodrade classics Chevy corvette issue. They used it for the lay out and the cover. Even got my picture in it.

I need to post on the general forum with pictures later.



Mind you the article says they start at under 20,000$ not that min is that price.

Last edited by CJ454; Mar 20, 2011 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ454
ok say it is the pump I have red antifreeze in the car. They say it calls for GM dexcool that is orangeish.

do i have to drain all the red out and put all new orange or will the 2 mix OK. I plan on draining and replacing tstat and pump etc. But do I need to flush the block/system to get all the coolant out?

What is the red stuff called? or is that just dexcool from that time frame and now its orange?

oh an shameless plug my car was featured on March Autodrade classics Chevy corvette issue. They used it for the lay out and the cover. Even got my picture in it.

I need to post on the general forum with pictures later.



Mind you the article says they start at under 20,000$ not that min is that price.
The color in the anti-freeze will not affect the mixing of the 2 brands.
You may have another brand of anti-freeze that compatable to Dexcool and they use a different color. I don't think you'll have a problem mixing the two. As for the Vette Trader, I got that issue sitting here on my desk. It was pretty good article. Congrat's
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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Depending how you look at it, the Dexcool is a redish orange or an orangy red. They are all the same. Actually, I think Prestone now owns the Dexcool name and produces it for GM.
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To help fluid and squeeling belts

Old Mar 20, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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I'm getting here late but has the OP ruled out the possibility this is a power steering leak? Hydraulic fluid and Dexcool are not that different to someone that doesn't work on cars much....
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:32 AM
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well i looked under the car this AM and nothing leaked. I was going to take it to work today but realized I had the airbox off it so I will put that on tonight and drive it tomorrow.

to the above poster the PS seems fine. no leaking from what i can see. But it never hurts to check again.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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so it has been 2 days and I drove the car yesterday to work and back 40 miles and still no fluid on the ground.

I guess Ill keep driving it for now and keep some coolant and water with me.
Will keep you posted.

Levels are fine on all fluids...
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