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Curious what the oil looks like...when you drain it.
The first pic is of the top of my oil bucket. 2nd pic is of the oil in a make shift milk jug. I understand it is hard to help me find the problem without being here. I have appreciated all the help. It did not look like there was any coolant in the oil once I poured it into the milk jug.
The first pic is of the top of my oil bucket. 2nd pic is of the oil in a make shift milk jug. I understand it is hard to help me find the problem without being here. I have appreciated all the help. It did not look like there was any coolant in the oil once I poured it into the milk jug.
Deffinitly look like time to yank her and get it rebuilt or buy a built motor. I went through this on my fresh 370, was pretty pissed I spun a bearing in 400km. My pressure would be 25 idle, 40 cruise and WOT (this is with a melling pump) pulled my filter and tons of bearin material.
unfortunately it definitely sounds like a rod bearing. if i were you i'd do a full rebuild myself. it will be cheaper than a new engine, and it would be a great learning experience. if u rebuilt it yourself, u could get more power than the same money spent on a new prebuilt 383.
Money is not a ridiculous concern. But I'm not trying to spend 27k on a crazy motor lol . Just saying a couple thousand is fine. Of course I would send the block off to get machined and stuff installed then assemble and reinstall motor. Just thinking buying a base 402 might be close to stroking mine to a 383 gonna be asking around in the next few days to see the price diff
If you go bigger, everything must go bigger, or you will make less horsepower and more torque. So to speak. If you stay stock c.i. you can make good reliable power considerably cheaper. I deal with this alot as I build engines for friends and such. I say basic boltons, forged pistons and rods, and a stock crank, and have fun with it, and you can do if fairly cheaply. If you go bigger, be prepared to spend money, or be dissappointed.
If you go bigger, everything must go bigger, or you will make less horsepower and more torque. So to speak. If you stay stock c.i. you can make good reliable power considerably cheaper. I deal with this alot as I build engines for friends and such. I say basic boltons, forged pistons and rods, and a stock crank, and have fun with it, and you can do if fairly cheaply. If you go bigger, be prepared to spend money, or be dissappointed.
Let me know if you need anything! I still have your original 241 if you want to sell your motor as a longblock pending findings!
Well I moved back to SC Mario, got out the Navy. As of right now I have yet to pull the motor to see the real culprit but metal shavings in the oil/oil filter I have a good determination of what it is. And Thanks!!
Well I moved back to SC Mario, got out the Navy. As of right now I have yet to pull the motor to see the real culprit but metal shavings in the oil/oil filter I have a good determination of what it is. And Thanks!!
Looks like a Stroked 383 with my same block or bigger.... pms replied just offer me some advice or guidance
thanks everyone.
The material mistaken for looking 'milky' in the oil was bearing material suspended in the oil.....
You'll see metal in oil like that often in manual transmissions and rear ends. When you see it in an engine, go ahead and yank 'er out because she's done. Looks like you've suffered the same fate I did last summer. Throw in a 383+ and never look bad
The material mistaken for looking 'milky' in the oil was bearing material suspended in the oil.....
You'll see metal in oil like that often in manual transmissions and rear ends. When you see it in an engine, go ahead and yank 'er out because she's done. Looks like you've suffered the same fate I did last summer. Throw in a 383+ and never look bad
240 in oil temp seems high. I live in the Upstate of SC and my oil temp on the highway never exceeded 190 (unless I was running it hard that is) 2002 Z06. But I too am now performing an engine replacement.