Just ran up the street, put window halfway down, went to put back up. No worky. Nothing working off driver side door controls. Passenger side works fine, driver seat works fine. Will go out and pull codes. Where is the fuse for LDCM? Thanks

 

 

Thanks for quick reply. Just got back in from fix. It is/was fuse 19 for IPC fuse. I checked codes quick, and IPC no comm. Looked all over that fuse layout, and manual. They listed RDCM but no LDCM. anyway, 10 amp'er and back running for now. Bigger question is what drew 10+ amps? I don't have my DMM right now, so can't ohm out suspect fuse. Replaced with a spare. Thanks again for responding.

 

According to the IP fuse cover layout I have, it does show a fuse for the LDCM as "DCM-L". Also, fuse #19 will not cause a loss of power to the LDCM....unless, the IPC had a problem, and took down the class 2....which would have caused a host of other problems. Even so, it would disrupt communication only.

 

Lucky131969, Thanks for the schematic. I'm an electronics tech type, but I have to say, I have never really understood these "car" schematics symbols well at all. I understand they just show a box (the real interesting stuff) but some of these are hard to follow.

A fuse is a fuse but all these other symbols don't do much for me. I know transistors, logic gates of all types, (even dot OR's) and all kinds of other good symbols put these car schematics don't help me much other than trying to following a wire.

With my problem being solved (for now), by replacing fuse number 19, how does this relate to the drawing you sent me? No big deal, but if you have the time. Thanks again for responding so quickly.

 

It doesn't. You asked for the fuse for the LDCM, so that's what I posted. Fuse #19, for the IPC, has nothing to do with the door control whatsoever. Unless you had a disruption on the class 2 serial buss, you have two problems going on.

 

 

OK I was banging out my last message and then saw your second. I'm at a loss here as well. I had no other problems with anything.

Believe me I have had some gremlins in the past, when the whole IP would go wack, loose window control, and all kinds of warning messages. This had seemed to be solved, unless the little gremlins have woke up from their sleep. Mine's is a DD so any problems I get I live with DD until fixed. All my last rounds of gremlins have been down for some time now. Of course I don't want them to hear me type, and come back at me.

 

Like Lucky stated,,, your having a Serial Bus issue.. The source of your problem is actually the door power connector. One of the pins has a poor connection and causes all those weird issues.

Pop out the accordion tube/s (I would check BOTH doors) and disconnect the connectors. The one that looks like this is the trouble maker:



The poor connection makes the module do weird stuff. That causes the garbage on the serial data buss.

I use a small dental pick to pry the little tung back in place.

BC

 

Bill and Lucky, Thanks for jumping in. I tell ya, about a year ago I started having all kinds of wacky gremlins that where due to the wiring in the driver's side door. I thought that I had that solved. I used to get all kinds of codes (mostly comm codes for everything) and every warning known to vette owners and radio would stop too. You may even remember my whining back then.

Today, just the drivers side control, but maybe this is the start of the gremlins waking up again. The fuse does not looked burnt, but will ohm out tomorrow. I pulled #19 fuse and replaced and checked operation with FOB while still on my knees (passenger side), and the driver's door unlocked and locked. Got up and over to driver's side, put key in, and windows back, all buttons back. So I don't really know if this is "the fix" but this is what happened today.

If nothing else, I learned a little more about my car. I guess the good news is that spring is coming so I can work on car outside without suffering too bad. Speaking of weather change, I started having problems with this car two Decembers ago. I did not have a single wiring problem for over 10 months, til today. Today/last night we also got a little snow, but my car sleeps inside.

Thanks for the help and responses. It might have to be an every spring time maintenance program to go over these connectors and grounds. However, I never saw the type of corrosion you have in your pictures, the last time I did this. Thanks again, if I have more problems I call out for your help again.

I take that back about problems. I had a EBCM 1214 last fall but got the unit rebuilt and I installed. In the last 3 tanks of gas, the gas gauge likes to hang up at about 1/2 tank, and even move upwards. Once down to 3/8 it will stop climbing back up. I figure this is gauge in tank, and have been treating it with the tech-tron/sea-foam. Not quite worked out yet.

 

Just an FYI on fuses; they will fail over time for no apparent reason due to something called "Electron Migration or Electron Travel". Its a condition that as current is passing through the fuse, its carrying molecules of the metal with it therefore it gets thinner, very slowly. The same thing happens with incandescent lamps which is why they eventually burn out. So in the case of a fuse, it might be working just fine for years, then without warning, normal function passing through it, it'll fail. Now if you replace it and it blows immediately or within minutes, then something is wrong. This is why its bad to replace a fuse with a higher current one that what was specified.

 

Thanks all for replies. Bill and Lucky are correct. Just ohm'd out the fuse and it's OK, like I tought after looking at it. It's a good thing the spare fuse can go back in the top fuse holder vs. the interior fuse holder.

In the past when I would lose door panel operation I would get a no comm error on the door module. This time only IPC. That's why I went after that fuse. Funny how replaceing that fuse (which was not bad) and everything starts working again. Gremlins!

I have chased serial bus problems before, from the D door to the inside wiring harness, just up under the dash where it enters the car. Not much fun for me as I have to twist and lay on my back on driver's side floor. I just ain't that flexable anymore. I think it takes me 5 minites to get in place and about 10 to get back out the car. Yeah yeah yeah too fat! I guess the gremlins want to be chased some more this year. They have clamed down for the last 24 hours, but these gremlins have a way of popping up at anytime.