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i did some searching but didn't really find anything that helped much. we have an '01 z06 that now has 109k miles on it. for the past few days, it's been picky about when it wants to start. i can get it to start, it just takes a while sometimes. it doesn't matter if it's been sitting all night or just a few minutes. sometimes you get in and it'll start right away. other times, you have to play with the ignition for a few minutes until it decides to finally go.
i've cleaned the keys and inside the iginition itself. occasionally we'll have to hold it to the start position for a few seconds before it'll finally go. what do i need to start diagnosing first? i can hear the relay clicking every time i turn the key, but i don't think it's the starter.
i did some searching but didn't really find anything that helped much. we have an '01 z06 that now has 109k miles on it. for the past few days, it's been picky about when it wants to start. i can get it to start, it just takes a while sometimes. it doesn't matter if it's been sitting all night or just a few minutes. sometimes you get in and it'll start right away. other times, you have to play with the ignition for a few minutes until it decides to finally go.
i've cleaned the keys and inside the iginition itself. occasionally we'll have to hold it to the start position for a few seconds before it'll finally go. what do i need to start diagnosing first? i can hear the relay clicking every time i turn the key, but i don't think it's the starter.
i just cleared the codes earlier, but it's been started and driven several times since. i usually just get 2 02 sensor codes and the below ones that have to do with the traction control due to a speed sensor wire being broken:
i just cleared the codes earlier, but it's been started and driven several times since. i usually just get 2 02 sensor codes and the below ones that have to do with the traction control due to a speed sensor wire being broken:
C 1222 H
C 1223 H C
Codes really help narrow down the issue, so don't erase them next time. Next time you experience a no start, check the codes, and write them down. There are a number of possibilities.
Next time it happens, take note if the security light stays on.
i know the codes are helpful but i haven't seen anything out of the ordinary. i'll keep an eye on them and write down any new ones. i've probably started it 30 times today and my wife had trouble earlier getting it started and no new codes have popped up.
the security light goes off while trying to start. every once in a while the "pull key, wait 10 secs" error will pop up. it usually starts right after i wait the 10 seconds or starts after holding the key to start for a few seconds afterwards.
the security light goes off while trying to start. every once in a while the "pull key, wait 10 secs" error will pop up. it usually starts right after i wait the 10 seconds or starts after holding the key to start for a few seconds afterwards.
....that's pretty important info to disclose up front. When the key is inserted into the igniton, there is a contact that tells the BCM column lock circuit, that a key is present. If there is a problem with key detection, you will get that message.
....that's pretty important info to disclose up front. When the key is inserted into the igniton, there is a contact that tells the BCM column lock circuit, that a key is present. If there is a problem with key detection, you will get that message.
it's only popped that up maybe 5 times in the past several days. i'm sure there's some communication issues going on due to wear of some sort. is a new switch generally a fix?
okay, no new codes have popped up. just the active handling and o2 stuff. it's still doing it. i took the ignition switch apart friday night and cleaned off the contacts. didn't really help. it'll usually start if i hold it in the start position for a long period of time. i'm leaning towards either a new ignition switch or a start solenoid. any good way to test either to see which one would be wiser to start with?
okay, no new codes have popped up. just the active handling and o2 stuff. it's still doing it. i took the ignition switch apart friday night and cleaned off the contacts. didn't really help. it'll usually start if i hold it in the start position for a long period of time. i'm leaning towards either a new ignition switch or a start solenoid. any good way to test either to see which one would be wiser to start with?
Most importantly.....are you still getting the "pull key and wait 10 seconds" messgage?
not for a few days. it's only done that a handful of times over the past couple of weeks. maybe 3 or 4 and it was after several attempts to start.
I would hook up a test light in the TDR circuit. Something that is visible, so when this happens, you can immediately determine, if the TDR is energizing or not. The next check would be at the solenoid(purple wire). I'm assuming you have already inspected the wiring to the solenoid.......
I would hook up a test light in the TDR circuit. Something that is visible, so when this happens, you can immediately determine, if the TDR is energizing or not. The next check would be at the solenoid(purple wire). I'm assuming you have already inspected the wiring to the solenoid.......
I would hook up a test light in the TDR circuit. Something that is visible, so when this happens, you can immediately determine, if the TDR is energizing or not. The next check would be at the solenoid(purple wire). I'm assuming you have already inspected the wiring to the solenoid.......
what wire/s am i looking at for the TDR? i'll check that next. the solenoid wires appear to be fine. it roll started fine earlier when it wouldn't crank, which leads me to believe it's probably starter related.
Originally Posted by KenHorse
The cranking circuit is routed through the BCM (part of the security system). If the BCM isn't happy, the car won't crank.
The actual SOLENOID it self is most likely the issue. They are KNOWN to fail and cause this exact issue. It happened just like this on my 02 ZO6. I trouble shot and proved the solenoid bad.. Replaced it and never had another issue.
IF,,, you fail to completely troubleshoot the circuit, there are several other possibilities that can cause the same issue. The TDR has TWO operating sides. One for the LOW VOLTAGE control signal and the other for the HIGH CURRENT 12 VDC drive voltage to the solenoid (purple wire)
If you have 12 VDC on the PURPLE WIRE when you crank the engine, everything from that wire back is good!
i'll check for voltage on the purple wire when i get a chance. i personally believe it's starter/solenoid related myself. any idea where i can get just a solenoid? i've found plenty of starters, but no solenoids
I got mine from a local starter/alternator repair place for around $50. Ive been told that NAPA/AutoZone or Advanced have a replacement solenoid but the purple wire eyelet will need to be cut off and a newer style plug connecticor on (which is really NO big deal. The newer starters have a different style connector soldered on, Obtain the connector as well as the solenoid.
You MUST remove the starter to change out the solenoid. You will need to purchase a 1/4 drive deep well socket to remove one of the three screws that secure the solenoid to the starter. It lives in a deep recess. Don't ask me the size, I think its 3/16.. Don't hold me to that value.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Apr 17, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
okay, just got around to checking the purple wire. it took several tries to finally get it to not start, but i finally got it to. the purple wire/terminal is definitely getting power when i turn the key, but the starter does nothing. i can only assume this means the starter is going out. the shitty part is i have headers and they have to come off. yuck
yeah, i figure the solenoid is the culprit, but i went ahead and just replaced the whole thing. i don't really have time to let someone rebuild the solenoid. might do it now that i have a spare and keep it around.
the new starter is in and so far everything is good.