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You need to dry out ALL your electrical connectors. Seat wiring, EBCM in the pass floor board ect. If left long (days), corrosion will leave you chasing elec related issues for a lifetime.
I'd pull your BCM and PCM immediately. Maybe even open them up but definitely bring them inside your house or somewhere so they can dry out quick. Blow them out with a dust off can..whatever but you don't want any moisture in there.
Disconnect your battery first.
I'd just start unplugging electrical connectors that could have any possible moisture and dry them out accordingly.
Pull it apart and dry everything electrical that could have gotten wet before you keep messing around trying to make it work like it sits. Do a compression test on the engine to give an indication of it being mehanically OK.
Had the same happen to me. Had to have the PCM and TCM replaced. They sit low in the car. Car would start but ran like crap. Only good thing was the insurance covered the tow and replacement cost...... Good luck.
I'd pull your BCM and PCM immediately. Maybe even open them up but definitely bring them inside your house or somewhere so they can dry out quick. Blow them out with a dust off can..whatever but you don't want any moisture in there.
Disconnect your battery first.
I'd just start unplugging electrical connectors that could have any possible moisture and dry them out accordingly.
I disagree with the PCM. The PCM is a sealed assembly, and is designed for brief submersion. The BCM is not a sealed assembly, if it did get wet, opening up and blowing out with compressed air, is paramount.
The worst thing the OP could have done in this circumstance, was try to restart the engine after it stalled. This is an unknown variable. I would not crank it over again, before pulling the plugs.........IMO.
Last edited by lucky131969; Apr 18, 2011 at 09:34 AM.
Because I'm sitting in the vette right now waiting for my tow, some thoughts. I pulled fuse 25 which resets the bcm, when I replaced it, for a split second the trunk popped, horn honked and interior lights came on. So I know it's the bcm. As soon as I'm home, I'll pull and dry it.
Because I'm sitting in the vette right now waiting for my tow, some thoughts. I pulled fuse 25 which resets the bcm, when I replaced it, for a split second the trunk popped, horn honked and interior lights came on. So I know it's the bcm. As soon as I'm home, I'll pull and dry it.
The BCM pcb needs to be removed, and blown dry with compressed air..paying particular attention to low/discrete components. Make sure you are ground, as to not discharge any static, and watch your finger placement.
MAKE SURE you completely remove the carpets and let them dry in a warm area (furnace room or in the sun! ) until there COMPLETLY DRY.
There’s a YAW sensor in the passengers foot well below the carpet NEAR THE INBOARD SEAT TRACK. Pull it out and dry the module and connector
Remove the seats and Seat modules.
MAKE sure that the modules and relays under the seat are disassembled and dried. Dry and blow out the seat tracks and motors. Make sure that the power/ comms plug for the seat is cleaned and dried.
There are TWO thin grey connectors to the LEFT of the BCM. That’s the STAR Serial bus terminals. Dry and spray them with WD-40 to displace the moisture in them.
The FUSE BOX needs to be blown out and at a minimum,, sprayed out with WD-40. You MUST displace the moisture. If it were me, I would remove each relay, circuit breaker and fuse one at a time. Inspect, dry and reinsert.
You have a LOT of work to maake it trouble free in the future.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Apr 19, 2011 at 01:48 PM.
take out the bcm and set it in a container of rice. It will suck all the moisture out. That or get the little moisture packets that suck moisture out of the area they are in.
take out the bcm and set it in a container of rice. It will suck all the moisture out. That or get the little moisture packets that suck moisture out of the area they are in.
What you don't want, is the water evaporating in place. Any deposits left behind (what you can't see under components).....can lead to dendretic growth. A clean compressed air source is the best way.
What you don't want, is the water evaporating in place. Any deposits left behind (what you can't see under components).....can lead to dendretic growth. A clean compressed air source is the best way.
EXACTLY!!!
I had to washed my 98 sediment ladened BCM circuit board with ALCOHOL and scrubbed it with a soft nylon bristle brush, flushed it again and blow dry it with air. SAVED IT!!
It was condensate soaked numerous times when I first purchased the car. The deposits on the traces and soldered joints were really bad!!
Dish detergent and a toothbrush works good for cleaning circuit boards and then you rinse in hot water and blow dry. We just use shop compressor air. You can use the air to blow out all the connectors and fuse block etc too.
Rinsing electronic circuit boards in hot water????? Really??????? Yikes!
Cleaning PCB's with deionized water(and saponifier), is coming practice, in manufacturing. It all depends on the maufacturers requirements for appearance, and the type of flux used.