Overheating??!
07-28-2011, 09:06 PM
#21
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Ive read both threads they were connected. as i posted on the other one i did incounter a pin hole crack on the jug where the hose connects and replace the jug years ago..(i have a 1998) and the car has ran fin for years. But now i have all the overheating issues like above, but unlike the others its not do to changing the thermostate or any repaires, it just went low and overheated. i dont see any leaks, ive filled it and burped it just by running and turning off and removing cap over and other. but it still got hot and after shut off kicked out 50/50 on the street..thinking of the plate proceedture next. Just thinking, that may get air out, but something caused this first overheating? i hate to order and by a cap if i dont need it. same with thermostat .
07-29-2011, 04:42 PM
#22
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Ive read both threads they were connected. as i posted on the other one i did incounter a pin hole crack on the jug where the hose connects and replace the jug years ago..(i have a 1998) and the car has ran fin for years. But now i have all the overheating issues like above, but unlike the others its not do to changing the thermostate or any repaires, it just went low and overheated. i dont see any leaks, ive filled it and burped it just by running and turning off and removing cap over and other. but it still got hot and after shut off kicked out 50/50 on the street..thinking of the plate proceedture next. Just thinking, that may get air out, but something caused this first overheating? i hate to order and by a cap if i dont need it. same with thermostat .
08-01-2011, 01:15 AM
#23
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Wow Only 10 bucks? I would have thought higher, ill risk that, and if i have to pull a thermo. to boil it. might as well just put a new one in. dont think its thermo, because it runs ok now for 20- 30 miles, and its feaken 105 outside (texas) with AC on high.
just when you think its fixed it starts to creep past the 220 mark some times it goes back then goes forward if its two small marks past the 220 when you turn it off. and pop the hood your see it spilling out all around the cap,
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just when you think its fixed it starts to creep past the 220 mark some times it goes back then goes forward if its two small marks past the 220 when you turn it off. and pop the hood your see it spilling out all around the cap,
.
08-02-2011, 01:28 AM
#24
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pulled the ruber tube off the "T" and filled the jug till fluid shot out the "t" took awhile and stuffed it right back on (pushed on easy with firm hand pressure no tools needed to reinstall) had to pinch the clamp to get it off ofcourse.
this seems to work and a hell of alot easier than unbolting the head bolts of the tube ends, and letting it drull all over the place and worried about torq or gasket resealing.
However although this burped it and it runs alot longer before starting to over heat. it still does, its a big help but not the root cause of my overheating aperently ;( got the Cap on orfer (15 bucks) will have it in the morning.
freaken termo is 59.99! cuz its the whole elbow assembly and not just a pop in like other cars.
i dont think its the thermostat just because the burping runs for awhile and it seems to be cooling, im gussing the cap is just not pressurizing at 15psi although it seems to squeeze on and it clicks and is tight, ? wont know till tomorrow.
thanks -Steve
this seems to work and a hell of alot easier than unbolting the head bolts of the tube ends, and letting it drull all over the place and worried about torq or gasket resealing.
However although this burped it and it runs alot longer before starting to over heat. it still does, its a big help but not the root cause of my overheating aperently ;( got the Cap on orfer (15 bucks) will have it in the morning.
freaken termo is 59.99! cuz its the whole elbow assembly and not just a pop in like other cars.
i dont think its the thermostat just because the burping runs for awhile and it seems to be cooling, im gussing the cap is just not pressurizing at 15psi although it seems to squeeze on and it clicks and is tight, ? wont know till tomorrow.
thanks -Steve
08-02-2011, 04:43 AM
#25
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pulled the ruber tube off the "T" and filled the jug till fluid shot out the "t" took awhile and stuffed it right back on (pushed on easy with firm hand pressure no tools needed to reinstall) had to pinch the clamp to get it off ofcourse.
this seems to work and a hell of alot easier than unbolting the head bolts of the tube ends, and letting it drull all over the place and worried about torq or gasket resealing.
However although this burped it and it runs alot longer before starting to over heat. it still does, its a big help but not the root cause of my overheating aperently ;( got the Cap on orfer (15 bucks) will have it in the morning.
freaken termo is 59.99! cuz its the whole elbow assembly and not just a pop in like other cars.
i dont think its the thermostat just because the burping runs for awhile and it seems to be cooling, im gussing the cap is just not pressurizing at 15psi although it seems to squeeze on and it clicks and is tight, ? wont know till tomorrow.
thanks -Steve
this seems to work and a hell of alot easier than unbolting the head bolts of the tube ends, and letting it drull all over the place and worried about torq or gasket resealing.
However although this burped it and it runs alot longer before starting to over heat. it still does, its a big help but not the root cause of my overheating aperently ;( got the Cap on orfer (15 bucks) will have it in the morning.
freaken termo is 59.99! cuz its the whole elbow assembly and not just a pop in like other cars.
i dont think its the thermostat just because the burping runs for awhile and it seems to be cooling, im gussing the cap is just not pressurizing at 15psi although it seems to squeeze on and it clicks and is tight, ? wont know till tomorrow.
thanks -Steve
now im running MAX 235 degree, once it gone to 240 at high speed but cooled down in secounds.
and all the thanks goes to 8VETTE7 and others trying theyre best to help.
08-02-2011, 04:04 PM
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Ok , it drove for 20 miles looked ok, stright up on the 220, as i pulled into the dealership it pushed a few hash marks up about 1/8 of an inch past 220. i shut it down, popped the hood and it kicked coolant out on the parking lot.
bought the cap, it was 18psi bought dealer coolant too, ran it with cap on, shut it down, tool off cap restarted for one minute, added fuild to bring it up. put on new cap and split.
got all the way home ok, gut as i got home it was slightly above 220. only this time i poped the hood and the coolant was still on the line.
dont know if i'm out of the wood yet, but a 18psi cap vs and older 15 psi cap seems to keep it in the jug (so far) yeah and 8vette7 Rocks
bought the cap, it was 18psi bought dealer coolant too, ran it with cap on, shut it down, tool off cap restarted for one minute, added fuild to bring it up. put on new cap and split.
got all the way home ok, gut as i got home it was slightly above 220. only this time i poped the hood and the coolant was still on the line.
dont know if i'm out of the wood yet, but a 18psi cap vs and older 15 psi cap seems to keep it in the jug (so far) yeah and 8vette7 Rocks
08-02-2011, 06:58 PM
#27
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You may of had a pinhole leak and just heads for info if your not pushing coolant.
The low speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 108°C (226°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 104°C (219°F). The high speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 113°C (235°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 108°C (226°F). When the A/C is on and the coolant temperature reaches 85°C (185°F), the low speed cooling fan will be turned on at vehicle speeds less than 56 kPh (35 mph).
This is right from the tech manual.
Also if you want cooler temps I suggest you take that thermostat back that's wayyyy overpriced(should of kept the old one if it works) and get a 160 thermo instead if your gonna pay theh cash(I only paid ~30 from autozone) and then since you have teh 160 thermo go get a mail order tune. You should then be in the high 190's. ECS has a huge thread about their mail order tune special. I had it and it worked great(got more boltons so got a dyno tune).
The low speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 108°C (226°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 104°C (219°F). The high speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 113°C (235°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 108°C (226°F). When the A/C is on and the coolant temperature reaches 85°C (185°F), the low speed cooling fan will be turned on at vehicle speeds less than 56 kPh (35 mph).
This is right from the tech manual.
Also if you want cooler temps I suggest you take that thermostat back that's wayyyy overpriced(should of kept the old one if it works) and get a 160 thermo instead if your gonna pay theh cash(I only paid ~30 from autozone) and then since you have teh 160 thermo go get a mail order tune. You should then be in the high 190's. ECS has a huge thread about their mail order tune special. I had it and it worked great(got more boltons so got a dyno tune).
08-03-2011, 05:19 AM
#28
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Ok , it drove for 20 miles looked ok, stright up on the 220, as i pulled into the dealership it pushed a few hash marks up about 1/8 of an inch past 220. i shut it down, popped the hood and it kicked coolant out on the parking lot.
bought the cap, it was 18psi bought dealer coolant too, ran it with cap on, shut it down, tool off cap restarted for one minute, added fuild to bring it up. put on new cap and split.
got all the way home ok, gut as i got home it was slightly above 220. only this time i poped the hood and the coolant was still on the line.
dont know if i'm out of the wood yet, but a 18psi cap vs and older 15 psi cap seems to keep it in the jug (so far) yeah and 8vette7 Rocks
bought the cap, it was 18psi bought dealer coolant too, ran it with cap on, shut it down, tool off cap restarted for one minute, added fuild to bring it up. put on new cap and split.
got all the way home ok, gut as i got home it was slightly above 220. only this time i poped the hood and the coolant was still on the line.
dont know if i'm out of the wood yet, but a 18psi cap vs and older 15 psi cap seems to keep it in the jug (so far) yeah and 8vette7 Rocks
hope you get this done as soon as possible! i know how depressing this can be
12-13-2011, 11:07 PM
#29
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Look carefully at the front of the heads. You will see a metal like that carries coolant between the heads. It's a small tube like perhaps 3/8". There are attachment points on the passenger and driver side. On the passenger side there is a hose from the radiator that attaches. On the drivers side there are two bolts that connect the plate the tube is welded into, to the head. Perhaps easier to see if you remove the plastic fuel rail covers. Loosen the two bolts a little and remove the pressure cap on the surge tank. Air that is trapped at the top of the head will be displaced by the coolant. When the coolant starts to run out, tighten the bolts.
The temperature no longer goes up to max. Sometimes at long idle it would get to 239 then a third fan (loud) would kick in (both other fans kicked in around 225. Then them temp would drop down to 207.
Another time the temp would raise to 230 before dropping. Is it possible I need to air bleed again? If so, how much fluid should I see coming out. It was a very small amount and very slow before.
Normal driving the engine is running around 190.
12-14-2011, 08:36 AM
#30
Race Director
I have a similar problem with my 2001 Coupe (53k). I have not changed anything. I followed your instructions and opened both Coolant Air Bleed sides. I was able to see a small amount trickle out (Cap off) then closed pass then driver side.
The temperature no longer goes up to max. Sometimes at long idle it would get to 239 then a third fan (loud) would kick in (both other fans kicked in around 225. Then them temp would drop down to 207.
Another time the temp would raise to 230 before dropping. Is it possible I need to air bleed again? If so, how much fluid should I see coming out. It was a very small amount and very slow before.
Normal driving the engine is running around 190.
The temperature no longer goes up to max. Sometimes at long idle it would get to 239 then a third fan (loud) would kick in (both other fans kicked in around 225. Then them temp would drop down to 207.
Another time the temp would raise to 230 before dropping. Is it possible I need to air bleed again? If so, how much fluid should I see coming out. It was a very small amount and very slow before.
Normal driving the engine is running around 190.
12-14-2011, 08:42 PM
#31
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The good news is I'm not maxing out the coolant temp after bleeding out the air.
12-15-2011, 11:40 AM
#32
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Yes, so after I bleed the air out, why would I reach 235F before it decreases when at idle? Do you think I still have air in the system? I only saw a small amount of fluid come out of the passenger and driver side before I closed them up. Should I see fluid flowing freely when I had both sides opened? If so, how do I induce the flow? The coolant level in the reservoir is half way between cold and hot level lines.
The good news is I'm not maxing out the coolant temp after bleeding out the air.
The good news is I'm not maxing out the coolant temp after bleeding out the air.
04-18-2012, 12:43 PM
#34
U guys that had air in ur systems question? Was radiator n hoses hot n did ya have heat. My cars over heating n never at anyvtime does it have heat or rad n hoses get hot everything is same temp as before starting. I assume if air is in system then vapor loc accures n fluid doesnt circulate?
05-04-2012, 07:59 AM
#36
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There is a gasket between the plate and the head. Mine apparently was loose enough that the plate lifted sufficiently to allow the air to escape and the coolant to displace it.
I will see if I can post a pic of the air bleed tube from my shop manual. The picture indicates there is a rubber tube connected to the center of the metal line. The rubber connection point on my 04 is at the plate on the right head and NOT in the center of the tube. I have a Maggie installed so gaining access to the clamp on the rubber tube on the right head is NOT easy. I therefore chose the left head connection point.
I'll try to post a picture from my 04 shop manual. removing the rubber hose (if the clamp is accessible) and holding the rubber tube as high as possible until coolant flows out the metal attachment point will also bleed the trapped air.
Here is the image from the shop manual.
I will see if I can post a pic of the air bleed tube from my shop manual. The picture indicates there is a rubber tube connected to the center of the metal line. The rubber connection point on my 04 is at the plate on the right head and NOT in the center of the tube. I have a Maggie installed so gaining access to the clamp on the rubber tube on the right head is NOT easy. I therefore chose the left head connection point.
I'll try to post a picture from my 04 shop manual. removing the rubber hose (if the clamp is accessible) and holding the rubber tube as high as possible until coolant flows out the metal attachment point will also bleed the trapped air.
Here is the image from the shop manual.
05-04-2012, 01:17 PM
#39
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I read a post that said take the rubber hose off the tee between the heads and then fill the system until the coolant starts to run out. then reconnect the hose and you are good to go. Anyone ever heard of that?
