I just had a Vararam installed. when the mechanic restarted the car (99 A4) the DIC ask for a start up code because the battery was disconnected. The car will not run. I have not seen the display but that is what he relayed to me. The manual says to call the dealer for the code. I called the dealer and no help. Any ideas?

 

Sounds like he's looking at the radio display instead of the DIC

 

shouldn't the car start and run even with out the code for the radio?

 

There is no such thing as a startup code in the DIC to start up the car. As mentioned, the radio might have a LOC code needed but that won't have a thing to do with the car starting.

 

HAve him CLEAR the DTCs and then READ them. MAKE SURE that he used the INTERNAL DTC reading routene:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



REPORT what DTCs are present! and if the current or history!

 

It's actually a security code. The dealer said I have to tow the car to him and he will enter the code for $90. The manual explaines how to enter the code but the dealer will not give me the security code to enter. I called Chuck COW and his has offered assistance. I was preparing the car for a retune using autocal. I think he can correct the problem. Thanks for the advise.

 

Never heard of a re-start code either-----
If the cars now fails to even turn over and is dead with the battery connected----That can usually be caused by only a few things
1---The tune download was interupted while downloadng
2---The battery voltage was too low while downloading and it failed to download completely--(interupted again)
3---The tune downloading was interupted by not pulling the radio/amp fuses OR an aftermarket stereo or some accesary was wired onto the "purple" wire on the OBDII connector which is WRONG and needs to be unplugged while loading or reading a tune


Worst case senario is that you fried your ECM
However this is rare--You can have someone with a TECH II reaload a STOCK tune back into the ECM if it has been interupted while loading
Sometimes you can do it with your tuner but it's hit or miss--keep trying--disconnect all approp fuses and any added circuits to the OBDII "purple wire" make sure the battery is fully charged--

 

AH,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The PLOT THICKENS!! If you have CHUCK on tap,,, he will get to the bottom of the problem!!

 

But why would it do that in the first place?
Just disconnecting/reconnecting the battery won't do it
(if that were the case,I'd have been screwed many times)

 

If it's a security code for the RADIO, there is a procedure to clear it. You have to get a code from the radio (via a few button pushes on the radio) and call an automated 800 number to get the response the radio requires to unlock it when you enter the code the radio produced from the previous step. Google "GM radio security code" or do an Advanced search here to find the exact procedure.

 

The only thing that comes to mind is if the OP somehow got a "Mule" car.

 

Thank you Billy!

So far, the car has never been flashed or downloaded. He simply had the battery disconnected while doing the air intake.

When the start button is pushed, the button is wired to the BCM and the BCM only cranks the car when the BCM's internal SECURITY CODE

matches the security code stored in the PCM.

It requires a Tech II and connection to GM's TIS system online to re-set the security code in the pcm.

There is a mandatory 10 minute wait time with the equipment connected before the Tech II with program the pcm with the correct code eanbling the car to start.

When the customer calls me back, I'll ask him to use the AutoCal to pull the codes and I'll have a better idea of what's wrong....


UPDATE! On the phone with Chuck customer) Now.....


I'm logged in remote and I've got full control of the customers laptop right now,

and we're installing the efi live software as we speak.

Before long, I'll have him a new tune and he should be up and running....

We'll keep you posted.

Stay TUNED!
Chuck CoW

 

Same result Chuck. Latest down load from autocal didn't work. Code P1631 is shown when read DTCs is pressed, scroll down press OK to install cal program nothing happens. Waited 10 minutes for prompts or resuts nada. Press Ok again error code 0502, So far tried two different programs three times. Back and forth to my car multiple times, not to mention time and $. Frustrating. I admit I do have a black cloud over head when working with cars or computers and this involves both. I'm getting the feeling mods were not a good idea. I'll call Monday morning. Worst part Wife didn't want me to change anything (her car) I'm taking the dog for a walk. he'll be holding the sign.

 

Ok then... AutoCal is a PROVEN product that works very well.

Many, many people use it successfully every day...

You likely have something wrong with your car...

REMEMBER: Before you even connected the autocal to your car, you disconnected the battery and then the car would not start.

That's not at all normal. Someone could have shorted a wrench disconnecting the batter or anything like that....maybe even nothing.

Having never used the AutoCal on your car, it obviously is not at fault.

However, if you can get a laptop to where the car is with an internet connection, I promise you I'll get it going for you using the autocal.

The codde you sent me indicates that the pcm somehow lost the theft password when you disconnected the battery.(remember - not normal at all)

Have no fear.... If you can get a laptop and internet connection to the car with your AutoCal, I'm sure I can make it work.

Reach out to me monday and let's see what we can do.

Chuck CoW

 

My 99 a4 car did the same thing. Battery went bad (optima red top ) and on installation of new battery car wouldn't start P1631 came up. I had a spare key , used it and it started. And to top it off now the original key works fine?


BTW I was just about to try this http://forums.corvetteforum.com/3702864-post10.html

 

Chuck I will call Monday, I did say I have that cloud thing going on.Not sure if I can get the computer to the car but I'll see what I can arrange. Didn't mean to dis the autocal. I know this isn't your first rodeo, I will also try all the keys I have thanks for the tip.

 

This worked and I was able to get the car home without incidence. Thanks for the information. Now that the problem is out of the way the vararam and thermostat are installed, I can reprogram the computer with Chuck COWs AuotCal tune. I am looking forward to the expected results.

 

 

Chuck COW successfully tuned my car last week. It runs better than I had expected. Thanks for the patience and extra effort. This was not your typical click and load Auto Cal tune. It took several days of investigating and computer time. Again thanks Chuck, if anyone is interested in what the problems were and how eventually it worked, don't ask me call Chuck COW.