road dog

I just had my clutch changed on my 98 coupe. I replaced it with a spec stage2 clutch and replace the slave cylider with a ram slave cylinder and replace the clutch master cylinder and had the fly wheel re surfaced . when i picked up the car the clutch peddle was kind of stiff and the shifter felt kind of notchy but It seemed to run and shift ok. today I drove the car and all seemed fine till i stoped to get some fuel . once I started the car the car would'nt go into any gear .I managed to get into second gear to get home and when i got to a light I push down the clutch and the car was sill wanting to move with the clutch pedal push down .I got home and checked the fluid but it was ok you figure with all that work done on the car it would be running like a champ HELP what could be wrong.

bumble-z

Sounds to me like you had the wrong shop work on your car.
You didn't mention if you bought & had them installed a remote clutch bleeder? If not, shame on you.
Take your car back, & have them bleed the clutch hydraulics.

Lucky131969,brings up a very good point.

lucky131969

Hopefully the shop you chose knows that some Spec clutches need to be shimmed(slave), and they know that ARP flywheel bolts do not play nice on all clutch assemblies.

TOPCATHR

sounds like air...............needs to be bled

vette-ll

Did they adjust the rod under the dash after installing the clutch? I had the same problem and i had to adjust the rod some cuz it wouldnt shift and with clutch pushed in it would still move car.

road dog

yes the slave was shimed it came with the kit as far as a remote bleeder how many oeople realy bleed there slave once its bled correctly
the clutch may need to be re bled and some ajustment may have to be done thanks for the feed back I was just thinking maybe someone else had gine thru this.

lucky131969

Everyone who is concerned with keeping their fluid fresh.......

bo.benson

Trust me it's a pain to do it without having the speed bleeder, but I was in your shoes thinking that I wouldn't ever have to mess with it much anymore so I decided to go without it. The only way I found to get to it was by a GM mechanic and he said to drop the exhaust and go in with your arm from the rear of the car. Surprisingly you can get to it over the top of the torque tube. This also surprised me, he said to crack the bleeder until it barely drips then lower the car down on the rack. He said keep filling the reservoir about 4 times as it empties and then simply get back in there and tighten the bleeder up. I really doubted him that simply letting it drip would get all the air out but I havent touched it since. This was done with a centerforce DF and no shifting issues to date. Just something you might want to try

Bill Curlee

Bo

I do my brakes the same way! The drip/slow run method works!!

BC