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New clutch Nightmare

 
Old 06-10-2011, 08:57 PM
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road dog
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Default New clutch Nightmare

I just had my clutch changed on my 98 coupe. I replaced it with a spec stage2 clutch and replace the slave cylider with a ram slave cylinder and replace the clutch master cylinder and had the fly wheel re surfaced . when i picked up the car the clutch peddle was kind of stiff and the shifter felt kind of notchy but It seemed to run and shift ok. today I drove the car and all seemed fine till i stoped to get some fuel . once I started the car the car would'nt go into any gear .I managed to get into second gear to get home and when i got to a light I push down the clutch and the car was sill wanting to move with the clutch pedal push down .I got home and checked the fluid but it was ok you figure with all that work done on the car it would be running like a champ HELP what could be wrong.
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:49 PM
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Sounds to me like you had the wrong shop work on your car.
You didn't mention if you bought & had them installed a remote clutch bleeder? If not, shame on you.
Take your car back, & have them bleed the clutch hydraulics.

Lucky131969,brings up a very good point.

Last edited by bumble-z; 06-11-2011 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by road dog View Post
I just had my clutch changed on my 98 coupe. I replaced it with a spec stage2 clutch and replace the slave cylider with a ram slave cylinder and replace the clutch master cylinder and had the fly wheel re surfaced . when i picked up the car the clutch peddle was kind of stiff and the shifter felt kind of notchy but It seemed to run and shift ok. today I drove the car and all seemed fine till i stoped to get some fuel . once I started the car the car would'nt go into any gear .I managed to get into second gear to get home and when i got to a light I push down the clutch and the car was sill wanting to move with the clutch pedal push down .I got home and checked the fluid but it was ok you figure with all that work done on the car it would be running like a champ HELP what could be wrong.
Hopefully the shop you chose knows that some Spec clutches need to be shimmed(slave), and they know that ARP flywheel bolts do not play nice on all clutch assemblies.
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Old 06-11-2011, 08:51 AM
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sounds like air...............needs to be bled
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Old 06-11-2011, 06:52 PM
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Did they adjust the rod under the dash after installing the clutch? I had the same problem and i had to adjust the rod some cuz it wouldnt shift and with clutch pushed in it would still move car.
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969 View Post
Hopefully the shop you chose knows that some Spec clutches need to be shimmed(slave), and they know that ARP flywheel bolts do not play nice on all clutch assemblies.
yes the slave was shimed it came with the kit as far as a remote bleeder how many oeople realy bleed there slave once its bled correctly
the clutch may need to be re bled and some ajustment may have to be done thanks for the feed back I was just thinking maybe someone else had gine thru this.
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by road dog View Post
as far as a remote bleeder how many oeople realy bleed there slave once its bled correctly
Everyone who is concerned with keeping their fluid fresh.......
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by road dog View Post
yes the slave was shimed it came with the kit as far as a remote bleeder how many oeople realy bleed there slave once its bled correctly
the clutch may need to be re bled and some ajustment may have to be done thanks for the feed back I was just thinking maybe someone else had gine thru this.
Trust me it's a pain to do it without having the speed bleeder, but I was in your shoes thinking that I wouldn't ever have to mess with it much anymore so I decided to go without it. The only way I found to get to it was by a GM mechanic and he said to drop the exhaust and go in with your arm from the rear of the car. Surprisingly you can get to it over the top of the torque tube. This also surprised me, he said to crack the bleeder until it barely drips then lower the car down on the rack. He said keep filling the reservoir about 4 times as it empties and then simply get back in there and tighten the bleeder up. I really doubted him that simply letting it drip would get all the air out but I havent touched it since. This was done with a centerforce DF and no shifting issues to date. Just something you might want to try
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by bo.benson View Post
Trust me it's a pain to do it without having the speed bleeder, but I was in your shoes thinking that I wouldn't ever have to mess with it much anymore so I decided to go without it. The only way I found to get to it was by a GM mechanic and he said to drop the exhaust and go in with your arm from the rear of the car. Surprisingly you can get to it over the top of the torque tube. This also surprised me, he said to crack the bleeder until it barely drips then lower the car down on the rack. He said keep filling the reservoir about 4 times as it empties and then simply get back in there and tighten the bleeder up. I really doubted him that simply letting it drip would get all the air out but I havent touched it since. This was done with a centerforce DF and no shifting issues to date. Just something you might want to try
Bo

I do my brakes the same way! The drip/slow run method works!!

BC
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