I am looking to find out which relays I need to replace in the passenger door module for the window. My passenger window gets stuck all the time until I hit the door in the area of the module. I thought there was a pic of the module out here that had which relay is which, but I cant for the life of me find it.

Thanks!!!

 

Just going to throw this out there... I've got a '99 that the window gets stuck on, too.

Turns out, as it was flaking one night, I realized that when the window stops working, so does the power door lock.

Have seen some guys replace that controller when they don't need to--- only reason I'm posting here.

A very common culprit for this is the ground in the door harness in case you hadn't read that. Hope it helps. Sooner or later I'll pull back my accordian boot in the door jam and get my ground fixed. Tired of the window flaking

 

What hes talking about is the door power plug. The FEMALE pins get damaged/spread and cause intermittant door operation and serial buss issue.

Fix the bent pins in that connector:



Read and post your DTCs That will give more clues to trouble shoot. If there are TONs of DTCs, clear them ALL and see what comes back!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Thanks for the info guys. I am pretty sure it is the module in the door. I have done all the checks I can find on here and I keep coming back to the relay's on that module. When the window is stuck I can here it click when I try the window. When I hit the door panal in the area of the module with my hand, it will work.

 

used the JSM1-12V-5 relays get them at digi-key.com Those are for the lock and un-lock..... not sure what those window part numbers are but digi-key should be able to cross reference them

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...or_handle.html

just in case you need these for getting the door panel off

 

the bottom 2 relays are lock and un-lock I have the lock relay already removed in that photo, as for power window relay, do a search since I cannot confirm their location...(4 relays 2 for lock & unlock and 2 for window up & down)???? just a guess so do a search on those..good luck w/ your project

 

My passenger side window had the same issue you are describing. I pulled the door panel and the only thing holding the motor on was the black sticky elephant snot. There were no screws to be found. This had caused the plug to wiggle out and not make good contact. I bought two screws and installed. Worked ever since. I keep thinking I have the ground issues so that is always the first place I check. I have never found a bad ground. Its always something like WTF

 

In my humble opinion, it is not the relay but a sticky armature inside the window motor. You striking the door module just unsticks the armature until it sticks again the next time. However, I know a guy that can replace the window relay for you if your interested, just shoot me a PM.

 

my window got stuck permanently and it was a bad window regulator motor, had to replace the whole assembly, works perfect now