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What is everyone's experience with oil usage for an LS2 based 402 stroker? I think mine is using too much. Assume the motor was "well" built (proper ring gap (Wiseco GFX rings), proper cylinder wall finish, proper break-in, etc.). Assume a street driven car (no track time). Mostly in town driving, mixed with some highway driving and the occasional spirited romp.
I expected oil usage in the first couple of thousand miles, but the motor now has about 5500 miles on it and I am still using a quart every 500-600 miles. Using Mobil 1 5W30. My concern is that the oil usage is excessive, but I have ZERO experience with stroker motors and am not familiar with what should be considered acceptable. I had every expectation to use a quart every 2000-3000 miles, but certainly not every 500-600 miles. I didnt sign up for that when I had the motor built.
I purchased my A&A built,installed, and tuned LS2 based 402 stroker from the gent whom had the build done almost 20k miles before I bought it from him....I drove it from SoCal to Jax Fl. in 3 days and 2 nights and it used less than a half quart in those 2300 miles.
I have put over 20k on it since that purchase and drive back and it may use a half quart every 4 to 6k.......the guy I bought it from always used redline 20/50 and I continue too use it as well.
I drive it daily, never tracked, or raced, I do get that sticky toyota throttle thing every now and then
486 rwhp
It does have a catch can and oil breather on it.....I am by no means a mechanic but I am sure this relieves some of the crankcase pressure?
What is everyone's experience with oil usage for an LS2 based 402 stroker? I think mine is using too much. Assume the motor was "well" built (proper ring gap (Wiseco GFX rings), proper cylinder wall finish, proper break-in, etc.). Assume a street driven car (no track time). Mostly in town driving, mixed with some highway driving and the occasional spirited romp.
I expected oil usage in the first couple of thousand miles, but the motor now has about 5500 miles on it and I am still using a quart every 500-600 miles. Using Mobil 1 5W30. My concern is that the oil usage is excessive, but I have ZERO experience with stroker motors and am not familiar with what should be considered acceptable. I had every expectation to use a quart every 2000-3000 miles, but certainly not every 500-600 miles. I didnt sign up for that when I had the motor built.
Please advise on your experiences. Thanks!
First thing I would inspect is the PCV system for correct plumbing.
When it is warm take off the oil cap and see if there is a lot of blow buy. And in park if you rev it up do you see white smoke out the exhaust? It could still be going into the intake. A lot of times it will in up being something with the ring or boar of the block. But I am not saying that's what is wrong with yours. So check that stuff and let us know.
Pull off your air bridge, flip open your tb and look into your intake manifold with a flashlight. If it is soaked in oil you more than likely have solved your problem. I run a breather on my valve cover vent and a catch can off my valley cover/manifold in my iron 402. It might use a qt every 3-4000 with a decent bit in the catch can.
Pull off your air bridge, flip open your tb and look into your intake manifold with a flashlight. If it is soaked in oil you more than likely have solved your problem. I run a breather on my valve cover vent and a catch can off my valley cover/manifold in my iron 402. It might use a qt every 3-4000 with a decent bit in the catch can.
The intake is soaked with oil, has been for a while. Since day one, this motor has had a breather on the passenger passenger valve cover and a Mike Norris catch can ('04 valley cover) (and it is plumbed properly). The valve cover breather is also coated in oil. I spray it down with brake cleaner every now and then to try and "open it back up", cause when it gets soaked in oil I assume it no longer breathes very well. I did the valve cover breather and catch can setup because I was tyring to prevent oil from getting in the intake (new motor didnt want an oily intake).
Would cleaning the intake and then plugging the valley cover and manifold ports and then driving it like that for 500 miles and compare oil usage be an OK experiment to try? I'm at a loss.
The intake is soaked with oil, has been for a while. Since day one, this motor has had a breather on the passenger passenger valve cover and a Mike Norris catch can ('04 valley cover) (and it is plumbed properly). The valve cover breather is also coated in oil. I spray it down with brake cleaner every now and then to try and "open it back up", cause when it gets soaked in oil I assume it no longer breathes very well. I did the valve cover breather and catch can setup because I was tyring to prevent oil from getting in the intake (new motor didnt want an oily intake).
Would cleaning the intake and then plugging the valley cover and manifold ports and then driving it like that for 500 miles and compare oil usage be an OK experiment to try? I'm at a loss.
A another member fought a problem like yours, around & around he went. In the end he did a leak down with piston in different positions in the bore back to the supplier & the short block was corrected.
Well, at 4500 miles, the engine is still making the same power it did when it was new, as verified by using the same chassis dyno that was used when the enging was new (and what it made when new was exactly what was anticipated - so I have nothing to indicate the motor wasnt properly assembled). The motor doesnt smoke, it will puff a little right when I go to full throttle, but it is anything that I would consider out of the ordinary, but it clearly is burning oil as indicated by the usage.
I have a compression checker so I can do that, but I dont have a leak down tester. I dont believe that I will find anything out of the ordinary when I do a compression check. The car just runs too good.
I have a compression checker so I can do that, but I dont have a leak down tester. I dont believe that I will find anything out of the ordinary when I do a compression check.
It's called troubleshooting, and alleviating variables. Your problem.....your motor......your choice.
Hmmmmm, starting to sound like the other member's motor, I think he has several Catch Cans & several schematics of different PVC configurations......As Lucky said, your motor.
Not knowing your configuration, I also remember something about rocker studs not having proper sealant. I'm not sure if I have that right or not & which cylinder heads, it was not problem. Just trying offer idea's.
Originally Posted by ssmith512
Well, at 4500 miles, the engine is still making the same power it did when it was new, as verified by using the same chassis dyno that was used when the enging was new (and what it made when new was exactly what was anticipated - so I have nothing to indicate the motor wasnt properly assembled). The motor doesnt smoke, it will puff a little right when I go to full throttle, but it is anything that I would consider out of the ordinary, but it clearly is burning oil as indicated by the usage.
I have a compression checker so I can do that, but I dont have a leak down tester. I dont believe that I will find anything out of the ordinary when I do a compression check. The car just runs too good.
When first put together my 427 was using oil at that rate. A leakdown test showed about 2% per cylinder. The problem turned out to be improperly setup valve spring height which crushed 2 of the valve stem seals.
I have never experienced a rebuilt engine that did not use excessive amounts of oil. I'm talking about rebuilds of engines that were machined locally and in nationally known shops. Factory crate engines seem to be much better in this regard. I don't know if the art of rebuilding correctly is lost at most rebuild shops but I have had little luck with getting an oil-sipping engine back.
A&A probably does so many rebuilds that they know what produces good results but there are far too few shops like this, IMO.
I have a very similar setup. Mine was drinking oil, and I later found it was going in the intake. All my problems were solved by relieving the crankcase pressure. I initially used a breather/ catch can setup, which worked ok, but since I have installed a vaccum pump that has eliminated all issues. The dyno says it was good for around 8 hp also. I can't remember who makes the kit, but I found it here on the forum, and it starts with a g. Hope this helps!
I have a very similar setup. Mine was drinking oil, and I later found it was going in the intake. All my problems were solved by relieving the crankcase pressure. I initially used a breather/ catch can setup, which worked ok, but since I have installed a vaccum pump that has eliminated all issues. The dyno says it was good for around 8 hp also. I can't remember who makes the kit, but I found it here on the forum, and it starts with a g. Hope this helps!
GZ Motorsports?? $800. Nice. Maybe if the engine builder pays for it.
I have almost 16k mi on my al 402 stroker. It will go thru 1/2 qt on track days with about 1/4 cup in catch can. Rest of time, I might get a tbls in catch can during a month and maybe a 1/2 pint loss every 2k non-tracking miles. I also have the valve cover breather. I had intake off to repl crack last summer - dry as a bone. Good luck with resolution.
I have almost 16k mi on my al 402 stroker. It will go thru 1/2 qt on track days with about 1/4 cup in catch can. Rest of time, I might get a tbls in catch can during a month and maybe a 1/2 pint loss every 2k non-tracking miles. I also have the valve cover breather. I had intake off to repl crack last summer - dry as a bone. Good luck with resolution.