I installed a ported fast 92 and ported ls2 tb and a 85mm maf ls1 injectors flowmatched to 36# a 58 psi. I am getting a p0102 maf code. i have checked wiring and connections for bent pins loose clamps and cleaned maf. It runs and idles fine. The check engine light will come on after I have stopped the car and then get back into the car and start it up again code is
po102 h c. I will clear the code and it keeps coming back up as current when I restart the car and run a diagnostic through the dtc.


second problem is when traction control is off and I am at 6k rpm and the car goes into reduced power mode and traction control lights up. I pull over and reset the dtc and it will drive fine unless I am wot above 6 k rpm it will do it again.

afr is at 14.7-15.2 at idle

I have done a search and have checked the wiring being to close to the tb motor re routed wires etc... I am at a loss. I did send the pcm into ECS for a mail order tune and am starting to wonder if any of the values may be off in the tune?

anyone have any of the same problems or advise please let me know...this is driving me crazy

 

Did you rewire the TB yourself or use a conversion harness?

Did you inform ECS of all the alterations that you did to the operating system before you sent the PCM to them?? If you didn't, I doubt that the MAF is anywhere even CLOSE to being correctly calibrated for your PCM.

Recommend that you call Chris or Doug and explain the problems that your having and MAKE SURE that you tell them all the changes that you did.

BC

 

bill thanks for the reply I used the casper electronics harness. I forgot to add I did relocate the map sensor to the front of the fast 92 and bought a harness from lingenfelter for it as well. I sent ECS the mods list to them with the pcm. I trying to figure out if it is something I did before contacting them.

 

Check the wiring. Some have been known to be sent out wired wrong.

 

0331marine thanks Ill do a search for the correct wiring, anyone have a link for the schmetic and voltages? I am getting an iat temp on my aeroforce gauge so I am assuming the connection at maf is good. I did pull the harness off the maf with the car idling and car ran steady but dropped rpms...never studdered...not that piece of info matters, but maybe? Guess I should have searchd more...I would have never thought about a pre made harness wired wrong.....thanks for that info.

Just for more history I also changed out the knock sensors , oil sending unit, and siliconed rtv around the knock sensors per gm tech sheet. I used a the fast low profile valley bolts and tapped the coolant line down to make sure the intake would set down all the way. My temps are within range so I think I didnt hit them down too much but just enough so the intake wouldnt possibly crack. I used all new tb and intake gaskets.I torqed everything to gm spec. I also ran the pcv line running off the passengers valve cover to a metal piece from callaway so I could reconnect the line to a silicone coupler from the power duct to the tb. The maf is a still located in its orig place connected to a vararam. AFR at wot IIRC was 13.5 when I glanced at it and 14.7-15.2 at idle. I am throwing a lean light on my afr gauge after WOT after gas let off with more than normal exhaust popping on decel. There is no studdering engine and no whistling so I do believe there is no vaccum leaks?

The maf was a truck 85mm maf and I just told them a 85mm maf...I wonder if that makes a difference in values? I also searched on here and found a thread where someones lowered the flow on the injectors fixed this problem.

Sorry for so much info....just trying to give enough info out there in case someone reads this and says yea you dumbass you forgot to do--------...lol

I dont know how accurate the aeroforce gauge is at idle heres what a few show
maf 1b/m 0.37
map kpa at idle 32 with ac on 37
map inhg/ts at idle -19.4 with ac on -18.2
ignition advance 18.5-19.0

 

Damn man, you've literally went through everything. I faintly remember all the sudden getting a maf code later on out of nowhere. I went to an SD tune so cant help ya there :/


Good luck

 

Well,, unless you communicated the mods that you did to ECS they may not have take that into consideration. Contact ECS and see what they can do for you.


When you increase size of the MAF and change its placement, it is no longer calibrated to what the engine/PCM expects to see for air flow. If its in error, your going to throw that DTCs.

You also have different injectors. They need to be scaled in the PCM to work properly.

Your fuel mileage will most likely SUCK. Until you get someone to use a wide band and correct the MAF table, & Volumetric Efficiency table your LTFTs will be very high. That will cause you to run very rich. Before I corrected those tables in my 02 Z after I installed my mods, my fuel mileage was bad! 23-24 MPG highway. After they were corrected, I could get 26-27 MPG

Do you know anyone that has tuning software that can data log the engine? If you send that data-log file to ECS, they may be able to use it to fine tune some of the PCM tables better.

Contact Chris and Doug and see what they have to say and what they want you to do. They should be able to help you.

BC

 

powerjunky I read your post I found when you did your install. I am only getting the reduced power at high rpms....still searching for the answer...thanks for the return pm.


Bill I am going to try to search more to see if something I did on this instal isn't right...I tried to set myself for success by searching and reading everything I could before doing this. I will see what I can come up with. I did send a pm to doug to see what he thinks...I just didnt want to bother them if it was something I did in the install...thanks for your reply

 

I did an idle relearn when I replaced the pcm but I decided to do another idle relearn to see what would happen. I pulled the 2 fuses with the key in the on position turned the key off and replaced the fuses. I started it up and let it warm up to operating temp and let it idle for 10 min. turned car waited 30 sec turned the key to the on position and cleared all codes. turned key to off position waited 30 sec and restarted the car and went for a 40 mile cruise running normal and wot through differernt gears. I turned the engine off waited 30 sec and checked the DIC diagnostics...no codes. and no check engine light

so now I wanted to check the wot at high rpm with and w/o traction control on....went wot 1-4th and no reduced engine coming on At idle the afr stayed the same with my wide band but at wot It ranged between 10.1-11.7

I drive home turn the car off and run the DIC diag and it showes no codes. I am thinking awesome! I then turn engine off wait 30 sec and run the DIC diag while the car is running and the p0102 c comes up I then turn off the car and wait 30 sec turn the key to the on position run the DIC diag again with out starting the car and it says no codes and the check engine light does not come on The code only seems to display when the car is running when I start the DIC diag and wont show the code with the engine off in diag.

EDIT TO UPDATE
drove to the store and no light no codes. shut off car went inside, came back out stared the car and the check engine light is on with a code p0102 hc

 

So no REP up high??? I use to get it too. If you dont already know that haha.

I wouldnt sweat the 102, even though that is weeeirdd

 

guess the 2nd idle relearn fixed the reduced engine power being thrown....so far..that is wierd since I did it exactly the same both times .I dont plan on driving it anymore until I get the p0102 code fixed...waiting to hear back from ECS on the tune.... I 'm pretty sure I have done about everything to see if the problem is on my end. Maybe someone will know the fix because I hope I don't have to pull the pcm again and mail back and forth...sucks because I paid 90.00 for shipping on top of the tune so I could have it back in time for a local TFT benifit show. oh well

Anyone have any ideas let me know

 

check the wiring, i just did last week and dreaded 1516, 1120 and 2 others cant remember popped on me, well i do have EFilive, so i toke care of codes, but 1120 keeps coming back, i said what the hell, i start checking voltages on TPS, well found bent the pin in caspers harness, So pull pull yours and check connections, hope they have not sent you the wrong one or you too bent pin like me. GL buddy but FAST pulls hard not a huge difference but you can feel some power you gained, its a expensive plastic piece in our car.

 

sorry for the dirty engine bay but here are some pics. If anyone sees something wired wrong let know. I rechecked every harness and connection. Still have the p0102 c code

 

Those "CRIMP SPLICES" suck and need to be soldered and heat shrinked but other than that,,,, NICE JOB!!/

 

updated in case anyone else runs into this problem. MAF harness bought from ebay was faulty. I was getting 5 vdc but it was fluctauing on voltage to 11.87 which DC curent shouldnt spike. Bought a new harness from caspers and no code.

 

Niccce to know