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How hard is it to remove the old vent and replace the new one? Can it be done while diff is in the car? Thought I might do this while I'm changing sway bar bushings.
How hard is it to remove the old vent and replace the new one? Can it be done while diff is in the car? Thought I might do this while I'm changing sway bar bushings.
You don't remove the old vent You pop the top off and remove the spring and rubber seal.
Then you attach a hose ~6" long and bend it forward with the new jiggle top vent in the end.
You will have to drop the left exhaust pipe and lower the cradle some have room to work.
You don't remove the old vent You pop the top off and remove the spring and rubber seal.
Then you attach a hose ~6" long and bend it forward with the new jiggle top vent in the end.
You will have to drop the left exhaust pipe and lower the cradle some have room to work.
Just completed this fix on my 2000 Vert. Had the left seal and o-ring replaced a couple years ago when I had my S/C installed. Still had occasional leakage. No apparent leakage all winter long. Made some long spirited runs this summer in hot weather and leakage returned. Level is OK now, might of been filled to drain after fix 2 years ago. Used 2' piece of 3/8" ID and clamped it to old vent with cap, spring and rubber removed. Double looped the hose and cable tied it to brake line. No vent on end of hose, placed screen over it. Will see if this helps!
You don't remove the old vent You pop the top off and remove the spring and rubber seal.
Then you attach a hose ~6" long and bend it forward with the new jiggle top vent in the end.
You will have to drop the left exhaust pipe and lower the cradle some have room to work.
Info for all interested in this subject. I found a local dealer who had the vent (Part No. 15852707) in stock. The P/N has actually been superseded to a new number... don't have it with me to post.
UPDATE - The new GM part number for this differential vent is 19132947.
But anyway, this vent called out in the Cadillac TSB is the same vent that is installed in the differential housing and also has the rubber washer and spring setup. The TSB just puts it on a 12 inch hose up and away from the differential. Maybe getting it away from the heat of the differential helps the rubber washer from sticking and the vent working as it should (?). The new vent is ~$30.
I was digging around my tool box last night and found a motorcycle in-line fuel filter that has a fine mesh screen in it, and the body isn't much larger than the diameter of the fuel line the TSB calls out. This weekend I'm going to install this new vent setup, but use this in-line fuel filter instead. Will be interesting to see if the differential "leak" stops after the mod.
Nice work guys
Don't tell the GM dealers about the TSB, they know too much
Rather than start a new thread I figured I would resurrect this one.
I ordered the Vent from my dealer today, my question is...
Has anyone had any ill effects with this mod? Has it fixed your leak?
My seal is dry and it is wet up by the vent so I am confident it is the cap.
Possible ill effects are addressed in post #3, it has corrected the oil leak on all of the ones I used it on.
My personal 98 has had this fix since 2005 and never leaked a drop since.
I do have one question, I ordered the OEM vent that was suggested on the forum.
I shouldn't have to worry about water ingestion then right?
I'm just adding 6" of hose with a new vent.
Took mine apart today I heard a little hissing noise . Tried to use hose for the vent with filter on the other end ,but couldn't get the clamp to stay on the small nipple,so I put back with no rubber seal.See what happens.
Took mine apart today I heard a little hissing noise . Tried to use hose for the vent with filter on the other end ,but couldn't get the clamp to stay on the small nipple,so I put back with no rubber seal.See what happens.
I had the same thing .
If the nipple didn't have the lip and was stright it
would help the clamp stay on,Maybe a O ring to help fill the space .We need some pictures of other jobs.
I had the same thing .
If the nipple didn't have the lip and was stright it
would help the clamp stay on,Maybe a O ring to help fill the space .We need some pictures of other jobs.
The nipple does have a small lip at the top otherwise the cap wouldn't be able to be crimped around it.
If it's any help you need to use a mini clamp like the kind used for small fuel lines like 3/8" hose.
About 4 weeks after pulling out the drivetrain, replacing axle and transmission seals and re-installing, I noticed puddles of differential fluid on the garage floor and fluid all over the back bumper. I determined it was coming from the vent but I didn't want to pull out the drivetrain again. As corvettebob1 suggested, I pulled out the left exhaust and attempted to clamp a section of 3/8" fuel line hose. After 2 hours of having the clamp continuously slip off that small nipple, I simply put the new spring and disk in the old cap and popped it back on. 3 weeks of daily freeway driving and no more leaks.
I did note the new rubber disk was completed flat. The old disk was malformed into a concave shape (looked like the shape of a contact lens). This is likely why it would get stuck in the vent and then burp out fluid when the pressure built up more than normal.
...I simply put the new spring and disk in the old cap and popped it back on. 3 weeks of daily freeway driving and no more leaks.
I did note the new rubber disk was completed flat. The old disk was malformed into a concave shape (looked like the shape of a contact lens). This is likely why it would get stuck in the vent and then burp out fluid when the pressure built up more than normal.
I was wondering if this could be done like this, and then I found this post!!!
As posted before, the original GM vent (15852707) has been superseded by 19132947, but GM's price is around $30. There is another post letting us know that a Mopar 4809686AB is the same and it can be had for less than $10, but it was not taken apart to see how it was inside.
Does anybody know if the Mopar's spring and disk could be used to repair the original one using this method?