Steering rack removal help
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
Steering rack removal help
Is there a special way that you are supposed to get the rack out of the ears or tabs that it bolts to on the cradle? Mine is stuck in there and wont budge on the passenger side, the drivers side is as you would expect and will move up and down freely.
Any suggestions or tips would be very much appreciated.
Oh and yes I did take the bolt out.
Any suggestions or tips would be very much appreciated.
Oh and yes I did take the bolt out.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
I have used pry bars, handles of hammers to pry on, and pieces of wood that I hammered on to get it to slide and it hasnt budged at all not even 1/16th. The bolt still goes in with ease on both sides.
I will check the spacer tomorrow morning when I take another go at it but it did not appear to me that anything was catching in hole of the ear. Im hoping that I can run up to zip tomorrow and get a rebuilt one...
I will check the spacer tomorrow morning when I take another go at it but it did not appear to me that anything was catching in hole of the ear. Im hoping that I can run up to zip tomorrow and get a rebuilt one...
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,590
Likes: 5
From: Forsyth Illinois
I had a awful time with mine as well. What worked best for me was a 3' long pry bat and I worked it in between the cradle ears between the rack and cradle from the passenger wheel side. Directly in from the end. My bar was just narrow enough to go in between the ears from the end and pry straight up. I ended up loosening the cradle bolts to give me enough room to get it to clear and remove. Hope that helps. 
Mark
Mark
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
I had a awful time with mine as well. What worked best for me was a 3' long pry bat and I worked it in between the cradle ears between the rack and cradle from the passenger wheel side. Directly in from the end. My bar was just narrow enough to go in between the ears from the end and pry straight up. I ended up loosening the cradle bolts to give me enough room to get it to clear and remove. Hope that helps. Mark
MarkIll post back up with the results.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
What ever you do,,, DO NOT pry the ears apart and DO NOT twist the rack. If you do,, they will SNAP OFF! That will NOT be a good day event!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 71
From: MA
I had the same problem as you have when I raised my rack to pin my crank. Like others mentioned I used a crow bar between the cross member and the rack to free it up. I used a small wood block under the rack to prevent denting its shell. It wasn't easy but it eventually came free.
I also had a problem inserting the rack into the cross member ears, even though I used generous silicone lubricant on the rubber bushing. I had to use a 2x4 coming down from the top and a hammer to bang it in.
I now have to remove my rack to adjust it. I am going to try to use a nylon tie down strap extending down from a 2x4 in my engine bay going around my rack. I have a BMW tire jack that I will use on top the the 2x4 to pull the rack up. I may still have to use a crow bar, but hopefully the tie down strap will exert enough upward pressure to help free the rack. I also will use the same procedure to pull the rack into the cross member ears by placing the strap around the top of the rack and using the BMW jack on the bottom of the cross member.
Hope this may help.
I also had a problem inserting the rack into the cross member ears, even though I used generous silicone lubricant on the rubber bushing. I had to use a 2x4 coming down from the top and a hammer to bang it in.
I now have to remove my rack to adjust it. I am going to try to use a nylon tie down strap extending down from a 2x4 in my engine bay going around my rack. I have a BMW tire jack that I will use on top the the 2x4 to pull the rack up. I may still have to use a crow bar, but hopefully the tie down strap will exert enough upward pressure to help free the rack. I also will use the same procedure to pull the rack into the cross member ears by placing the strap around the top of the rack and using the BMW jack on the bottom of the cross member.
Hope this may help.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
I had the same problem as you have when I raised my rack to pin my crank. Like others mentioned I used a crow bar between the cross member and the rack to free it up. I used a small wood block under the rack to prevent denting its shell. It wasn't easy but it eventually came free.
I also had a problem inserting the rack into the cross member ears, even though I used generous silicone lubricant on the rubber bushing. I had to use a 2x4 coming down from the top and a hammer to bang it in.
I now have to remove my rack to adjust it. I am going to try to use a nylon tie down strap extending down from a 2x4 in my engine bay going around my rack. I have a BMW tire jack that I will use on top the the 2x4 to pull the rack up. I may still have to use a crow bar, but hopefully the tie down strap will exert enough upward pressure to help free the rack. I also will use the same procedure to pull the rack into the cross member ears by placing the strap around the top of the rack and using the BMW jack on the bottom of the cross member.
Hope this may help.
I also had a problem inserting the rack into the cross member ears, even though I used generous silicone lubricant on the rubber bushing. I had to use a 2x4 coming down from the top and a hammer to bang it in.
I now have to remove my rack to adjust it. I am going to try to use a nylon tie down strap extending down from a 2x4 in my engine bay going around my rack. I have a BMW tire jack that I will use on top the the 2x4 to pull the rack up. I may still have to use a crow bar, but hopefully the tie down strap will exert enough upward pressure to help free the rack. I also will use the same procedure to pull the rack into the cross member ears by placing the strap around the top of the rack and using the BMW jack on the bottom of the cross member.
Hope this may help.
At this point Im almost all out of ideas so if anyone has any suggestions I am willing to try them.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 71
From: MA
2x4 position
Yea I am having loads of trouble getting it out I have moved it maybe a 1/4 inch using a crow bar that is 3 or 4 feet long. I have sprayed it with pb blaster in hopes it will soak in and let it slide a little easier but so far it hasnt really helped. Im not sure how you are going to use that 2x4 but I have been trying to come up with a way to do the same thing, too bad I dont have the engine lift over here or else I would pull it straight out with that.
At this point Im almost all out of ideas so if anyone has any suggestions I am willing to try them.
At this point Im almost all out of ideas so if anyone has any suggestions I am willing to try them.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 9,844
Likes: 33
From: S. FLA :: Professional Devil's Advocate
Those damn metal slugs in there have caused me trouble everytime I removed the steering rack.
My solution was to put a jackstand in the space between the front crossmember and the leaf spring on one side. On the other side I took out the top of a jackstand and balanced on my hydraluic jack. I then made a bridge with a piece of metal that crosses under the steering rack. Then I slowly jacked the "bridge" up to put pressure on it. I just lift it a little. From there I use a screwdriver to gently tap at the metal slug inside the hole. It usually slides enough and the car will drop back down. You'll also want to just slide the drivers side rack bolt back in and try to get this "bridge" as close to the passenger side bolt as possible.
I've done it like I mentioned above with a jackstand on the ground, and just the white top metal part of the jack stand balanced on the hydraluic jack. I've also done it with 2 jackstands balanced on a board. Neither is easy... or elegant. An engine crane would probably do the same job, but I didn't have one so redneck engineering came into play.
!! Also note these photos are for illustration purposes, they're not on the correct side, but the rack had finally come out and there was no way in hell I was going to risk letting it fall back in. !!
My solution was to put a jackstand in the space between the front crossmember and the leaf spring on one side. On the other side I took out the top of a jackstand and balanced on my hydraluic jack. I then made a bridge with a piece of metal that crosses under the steering rack. Then I slowly jacked the "bridge" up to put pressure on it. I just lift it a little. From there I use a screwdriver to gently tap at the metal slug inside the hole. It usually slides enough and the car will drop back down. You'll also want to just slide the drivers side rack bolt back in and try to get this "bridge" as close to the passenger side bolt as possible.
I've done it like I mentioned above with a jackstand on the ground, and just the white top metal part of the jack stand balanced on the hydraluic jack. I've also done it with 2 jackstands balanced on a board. Neither is easy... or elegant. An engine crane would probably do the same job, but I didn't have one so redneck engineering came into play.
!! Also note these photos are for illustration purposes, they're not on the correct side, but the rack had finally come out and there was no way in hell I was going to risk letting it fall back in. !!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 71
From: MA
M6 C5, I used the nylon strap with a 2X4 as mentioned above today and it easily pulled my rack up! To be fair, I had my rack up about 3 years ago so that may have helped. But it worked so well I encourage you to try it. This method is also puts much less stress on the rack compared to using a pry bar. As I mentioned you could position the 2x4 on top of the alternator and on top of a vertical 2x4 positioned on the right front side of the engine going to the ground. It is worth a try.
Also, do you nave the two 18 MM power steering lines disconnected? These would prevent you from raising the rack. One of these lines is also attached to the front of the cross member by two clamps. Unscrew the bolts that attach the clamps. That may help add some flexibility.
Also, do you nave the two 18 MM power steering lines disconnected? These would prevent you from raising the rack. One of these lines is also attached to the front of the cross member by two clamps. Unscrew the bolts that attach the clamps. That may help add some flexibility.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
Well I ended up putting it back in place mainly because I was tired of messing with it and didnt feel like spending anymore money after I found some things that had to be replaced and took priority over a rack that was leaking a little. I will replace it later on this year. I think I might try to either get the engine lift or use the jack stand route as I dont feel too comfortable using a 2x4 from the ground as it doesnt seem too stable to me. If I had a super charger Im sure it would work really well.
