I am installing a cam in my 99 FRC. I was wondering if there is a write up on how to install just the cam. Not Heads and cam. I also have the service manuals and have been looking in there but havent found exactly what I am looking for. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Just use the write up on ls1howto.com but use the correct tools for the balancer.

 

And use the service manual for torquing the rockers.

 

Use this to pull the stock balancer:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-6667/

Also you can make your own pulley intall tool out of M16x2 all thread, some washers, and a few nuts. Cost me about $20 to make mine or you can buy the Hawk unit on here for $50.

I'm getting ready to do my Cam install here soon and I hear heat on the crank bolt helps quite a bit for removal. Also heating up the balancer in the oven for a while and throwing some ice on the crank help start the pulley for reinstallation. Use a new bolt for the crank when you reinstall the pulley.

Read up on pulling the rack and get yourself a good 18mm flarenut wrench. I have the crowsfoot ones as well as a Snap on flarenut wrench.

If you're also replacing the valve springs you should look into the Crane compressor, it's the one I went with and it's nice. If you don't want to spend over $100 on one there is a $35 one on LS1tech that works just not as well.

I'm also replacing my oil pump with a Melling high volume pump (not convinced HV is the best way to go yet) and my chain with an LS2. Obviously I also have all the gaskets and small stuff to replace as well since everythings coming apart. I purchased Thunder Racings cam gasket kit that comes with pretty much everything you'll need as far as gaskets and what not are concerned.

 

having just done my cam install in my drive way not a week ago id be glad to help if you have any questions. its rather straight forward as far as what needs to be done. it just takes having the correct tools. the best advice i can give you is to not rush and triple check everything before moving on. nothing worse than realizing you did something wrong or forgot a step then you have to take it back apart to correct it. good luck. pm me if you have any questions at all.

 

Really, i agree. did another cam install shortly after doing a h/c install and kind of rushed. sure enough i pinched the oil pick up tube o ring and had to back track. what a pita

 

i acctually timed my cam wrong trying to rush in the texas heat and had to take the cover and pump and gears off again. glad i caught it but hated having to get that oil pump lined up again lol

 

Use either a threaded rod (best) or a very strong, longer crank bolt (better) to pull the pulley on. It is such a risky maneuver pulling it on with the stock bolt...a stripped crank = engine needs to be pulled.

I bought a very long grade 10.9 bolt from fastenal and a bunch of high grade washers/nuts too. I basically pull it on with the bolt with just washers at first until the bolt bottoms out, then I just add one nut at a time to shorten the bolt and keep repeating the process until the pulley is seated. This ensures you are grabbing the most amount of threads possible as you pull it on. Again a threaded rod is better, but they didn't have any at the store. I have used this bolt on about 10 cam installs with good success. I also oil it up prior to use.

 

That is the method where you put it at TDC and then do a certain number of rockers to 22 lb/ft , then rotate so many turns and then do a certain number of rockers etc right? I have read so many versions of how to do this.( I dont have the manual yet) that I am not sure. On my Gen IV BB you did 1/2 turn past 0 lash then rotate the next piston in the firing order to TDC and do it again but from what I understand that is not the method for the LS series rockers.

 

My 99 has the ABS unit just above the rack on the driver's side....do I need somehow move it?

What about the AC condenser?

 

Here it is, of course you should adjust the rocker stand height first but most don't and it won't be mentioned on LS1howto:

 

Got it,
so i was basically right I am thinking. So you put the crank on #1 TDC and then put in a pushrod and just tighten the bolt down to 22lbs. No spinning the rod or anything?
It seems a whole lot easier than setting the rockers on a 454.
Once I start buying the cam swap parts, a manual is #1 on the list.

 

The key is that the factory setup has the correct rocker height and pushrod length. As you make changes, you need to verfiy rocker height and determine correct pushrod length. Once these two key things are complete, then the procedure above is used for installation of stock rockers.

 

and this requires using the marker on the rocker and look for the wear mark where it hits the pushrod right?

 

I unbolted (4 bolts) the ABS unit to move it up so I could get the rack moved, didn't remove it.
I removed the AC condenser, didn't want to move it up and risk breaking a line.