I am looking for a Corvette repair shop in the Seattle Washington area. The dealer says both parts are bad. I hear there is a guy in Tennessee that repairs the black box - but I need someone to take off the box for me. Any recommendations for repair shops in Seattle?

 

What year car? Which code do you have? Is it C1214? With C1214 both modules could be bad. Checking both of them is part of the C1214 diagnostic and if the motor circuits in the BPMV show anything less than an open circuit to the BPMV case or ground wire then it more than likely caused a failure in the EBCTM which means both have to be replaced. There are some places that replace a relay in the EBCM of later models of the C5 but they don't do it on early models. The fact that you are calling it an EBTCM may indicate you are talking about an earlier car. ABSFixer is one of the guys who replaces the relay. Other than that repair there are no other repairs that can be done to any of the modules.

An EBTCM may not even be available any more while EBCMs are available but not cheap unless able to be repaired. The BPMV is expensive as well.

Bill

 

The STEALERSHIP defaults to replacing BOTH units at the drop of a hat. Its an easy $2000.

Read and post your DTCs. The EBTCM DTCs need to be read WITHOUT turning the ignition OFF. Drive the car and when you get messages, read and post the DTCs.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!

 

Subscribing... I have the intermittent C1214. I got the "SVC ABS, Traction, AH" message once about a month ago and it went away on its own. Showed up again yesterday when I started the car in the driveway (didn't drive it, just started). Pulled the C1214 H code this morning. Car is an '02 Z.

Bill Dearborn, you speak of a C1214 diagnostic... what is this procedure and is it something I can do, or does it require a TechII?

I also read that the pump motor in the BPMV can get "sticky" over time. Would cycling this motor manually (electrically) help with this issue?

Has anyone documented the "ABS Fixer" procedure? If I need to replace a relay in the EBCM I'm pretty sure I can handle that on my own as long as I can get my hands on the right relay.

 

In this link ...go to post 111 thats the relay fix, hope that helps
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...iy-thread.html

 

It is my understanding that often the relay causing the 1214 code to set is not actually defective but has poor solder joints that work loose. People have re-soldered the existing relay and come away fine, not needing to replace. If I had to do it, I would find someone who does a lot of soldering on electronic connections--I'm not experienced enough to take a chance on buggering that board.

 

Any TV/STEREO Repair shop could do the Solder Job for you. Once you have the module apart, Identify the problem area, it only takes a couple of minutes to prep and repair the suspected problem joint.

BC