Hey all just wanted to get some input on an engine power problem. I have a check engine flashing for what I felt was a misfire and became a dead cylinder if I had to guess. The engine starts right up, but as it's idling it varies RPMs high and low as it's sitting. I also had a drive with this problem because I had to get back to my place when it happened, and found out that it is severely bogged down. I tested flooring the pedal and had trouble keeping it going up slight inclines and couldn't make it much above 45 MPH. Shifting didn't do much either aside from keeping the car moving glacially. It cut off completely on me twice on the drive home. It's also really shaky, like an old muscle shaker with a ton of horsepower, but worse. The whole car moves as if it's dragging a floating cylinder, and seems very limited on RPM range. I have already been window shopping for some new wires, plugs and coils, but if there is any input I could gain from all of you that would be most helpful. I had also contemplated something related to fuel, but I hardly know the fuel system on this vehicle. The only thing I can think aside from those things is maybe the response the engine has had from the 0w-30 fuel saver oil that I got the change done with. I thought it could run it but maybe I was mistaken? I need a swim in the knowledge pool!

 

Pull your codes and post them. If I had to guess, Mechanical, valve springs. Electrical, Plugs or wires (NOT THE COIL PACKS). Air leak before the MAF ect.

Codes will point you in the right direction........

 

sounds like a valve spring (common issue)- how many miles on your car?

 

Hmm, valve springs... it's sitting at around 68k right now. I'll look into that. How much on average for new ones?

 

I just recently read a post about how to do it... never needed to before. I will be sure to do that! I found a post on some new plugs and wires... GM red wires and iridium plugs I suppose? Seems to be the general census. I was going to get some new ones anyhow. Recommendations for valve springs? I'll get the codes posted when I can also.

 

You ,,, "PLAIN AND SIMPLE" have a cylinder misfire... Why keep driving it and causing damage to other components??

You most likely DO NOT need new coils as they are pretty bullet proof and able to support some BIG HP Numbers with out fail.

Wires and plugs: Most likely a wire issue. Remove each wire. Inspect and look for jacket and boot damage, internal hard ware corrosion/damage and MEASURE each wire with an OHM Meter. If there stock wires, you should see right around 300-400 ohms for a normal reading.

Plugs: They can cause a misfire but, unless there severely abused (cracked or very high miles) don't usually totally fail. There easy enough and inexpensive, just purchase some new AC Delco Iridium plugs and install them.

Bad Valve springs. Springs can and do fail. They crack and allow a valve to stay partially open. They can fail and allow the valve to fall into the cylinder (thats why, its NOT a good to drive it until you figure out the crux of the issue)

Its easy enough to just make sure that the plug wires are fully seated on the coil and on the plug. They can pop off and cause the same issue.

BC

 

Thank you for the insight Bill. I didn't have much of a choice for the driving it ONCE back home though. I was stuck on base and AAA would not have been able to come get me. I will be sure to get on inspecting these things to determine what I'm dealing with. You say it is most likely a wire issue... any recommendation on what to replace them with if they are corroded and such? Should I buy new ones anyway?

 

Ah,,, you sound like military! Ex military my self!

Order the GMPP GM Performance Red Wires from Gene Culley. There like $65 and are some of the best wires you can get. They fit very well, are very durable and flat work! No hype. If you want plugs, get some GM AC Delco Iridiums.

www.gmpartshouse.com

If you have ANY questions,, I'm a PM away!

Bill

 

Haha... I sound like military? That might not be the best thing i've ever heard I wasn't trying to sound rude at all, just looking for some help. And prior military? Sounds good I'll PM you for sure. I think I'm pretty set on getting those Delco's and Redwires, and I'll be sure to check on the valves to see what the condition is.

 

Well,,, After reading your comment " I didn't have much of a choice for the driving it ONCE back home though. I was stuck on base and AAA would not have been able to come get me."
That lead me to believe you were on a Military base and you were in the military.

I took nothing RUDE about it. The military members in my book are 100% class and i will go out of my way to assist them.

Bill

 

Hehe, well alright sir Thank ya much, and I'll get back with some updates as I get some time to mess with it.

 

So I pulled the codes just now... it always shows B2482 even right after resets. Maybe low wiper fluid lol... the others include B0502, B0507, and B1001. After engine start it adds P0200, U1096, and U1016. Recommendations?

 

They all seem like electrical failures... checking all fuses and relays next.

 

Additional codes... p0135, po141, p0300, and another loss of comm 'u' code... don't really know what to do aside from maybe new battery and alternator... and then move on to the misfires? Could use some guidance please folks if anyone has some gems of advice

 

Battery was replaced over a year ago by the previous owner... but its an interstate. Also it sits at 12v even and when running doesn't go up much from there. Hooked up to my other car with jumpers to get 13.2v... and that's when it got enough voltage to read the newer codes I guess...

 

If the volt meter is reading 12V when the engine is running there is something wrong with the charging system.

Interstate batteries have a pretty good reputation.

 

P0200 – http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic10356.php

p0135 & po141 - http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic10362.php

p0300 – http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic10354.php

Ignore these for now...

B2482
B0502
B0507
B1001
U1096
U1016

 

The DIC will only show P0300 and not cylinder specific P030X codes, hook up a different OBD reader to the OBD port and see if you read p0301-p0308 code(s).

 

Yeah I know they have been around a bit, but there was definitely something wrong with it... I'm positive. I've since replaced it and it's overall more steady, but there are also more issues to work still in addition to the charge. The PCM was not liking the fluctuation of voltage, and it tested at 8v and continued to drop at Napa when I brought it in. Just overall not the best electrical situation, ya know? But, moving on...

 

I do realize this, and I still may in fact have it read , but I've been working with some friends from work on it today and we are thinking about moving to the fuel filter and spark plugs and wires, since I was going to do it anyway... maybe see what the external reader says after that. Thoughts?