DO NOT replace any electrical components until you call me. PM SENT!

I seriously doubt that you have a BAD alternator or battery. Find a Digital Voltmeter that you can use to troubleshoot!! The DIC and IPC volt meters DO NOT read battery voltage! They read the voltage of the out put of the IGNITION SWITCH!

I'm not saying that the switch is or isn't the problem... You have to do some trouble shooting first.

Here s a post that will allow you to do that troubleshooting:

- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html



READ THE battery voltage directly on the battery terminals with the engine running and with it off. POST RESULTS

Read the voltages on those fuses to ground and post results.

BC

 

Hey brother, sent you a PM... I did measure straight on the terminals powered on and off, not from the gages, and the results while engine off were fluctuating between the range of 11.2v up to 12v. Engine running the results were anywhere from 11.5 to 12.5, and up to 14.4 while giving about 2k RPM.

 

TRY THIS!

I use a jumper cable (just one color) Jump the POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL on the battery to the BATT connection on the back of the alternator (under the black boot) and see if the charging voltages increases. Let me know what happens.

 

While engines running obviously, correct? Keep in mind it's a new battery now too, replaced today. It needed to happen anyway I feel.

 

You can but, I would connect it while OFF, start it and see if the issue is solved! Should see 14.3 VDC

 

Well gents... I actually have now got 90% of the problem solved thanks to your guidance and a little perseverance. Was hooking my ohmmeter up to anything and everything and found half my engine wasn't getting current. Traced it back to a 'ignition 1' 15 amp minifuse in the engine compartment that was blown. Guess it controls all of bank 1... Got the new fuse in and its back to super strong and healthy mode with all 8 cylinders again instead of a 4 banger. The only question im running into now is I ran the codes again on a few different cranks and after a short drive and its still spitting p0300, u1016, u1096, b2482, b0502, and b0507. Maybe the codes need to be permanently cleared? I will say that if it is still having an issue to bring these up, one would never even know now. Its truly running very strong like it was before, so im confused a bit. Any input would be awesome, and thank you all for the help so far.

 

CLEAR ALL THE DTCs and see what comes back.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Do those codes have an H or C suffix? Except for the P0300 which is a random misfire (check your plugs and wires) they are just minor electrical failures... Clear them by holding down the reset button in each module and see which ones come back...

Edit: The electrical king just beat me to it lol... You're being guided by one of the forums best. Listen to Bill, he really knows these cars inside out.

 

The U Codes probably don't mean anything and the B codes are voltage related so you should reset them and see if they come back. If the B codes come back then you will have to look into diagnosing the BCM control of the DRLs and the backup lights as it uses them in the outside vehicle approach lighting when you use the remote to open the doors.

You wouldn't know you have a problem with this if you don't have the feature turned on or don't open the doors at night.

Bill D

 

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

I just replaced my battery, it was completely toast but still showed 12.6v voltage with a volt meter. It was a value battery made in 09 and decided to die abruptly. So even if you're showing voltage at battery still doesnt mean its good. A lot of these B and U codes will go away with a good one.

 

Haha... you guys are great. I do know now how to do the code reading. All the above codes I posted are 'c' current... but I looked them up and I have to agree with you guys that I really could care less about all of them except for the p0300. They have been reset on 3 different cranks and one drive so far and they still come back. The kicker is the p0300 is not instantaneous. It takes a bit to come up... im thinking maybe go ahead with the wires and plugs anyway just for a fresh tune? And keep track daily on if its kicking out still perhaps? Thanks for the help you guys... I love this site so much!

 

Also to note... don't have/use a key fob... so the driving lights I may not even worry about im sure. Really just wondering about the residual p0300 deal now. These cars are interesting to say the least... and they sure can throw a fit!

 

I agree Joe... just installed brand new today so im good now!

 

Well guys... back to square 1. The fuse that I discovered that blew out definately did for a reason. I've now gone through 7 minifuses in a day... I suppose its on to wire troubleshooting now. Bill, I will call when I next get a chance. It blows on ignition, engine off. Ignition switch issues perhaps?

 

What is the NUMBER of the fuse that blows??

 

So after much deliberation I have a final update for you all. The fuse was popping at random intervals from some wiring in the engine compartment rubbing the firewall. It was rubbing repeatedly until the coating came off and then it happened every time I turn the key to ACC. So I repaired the wiring and it has run fine since. Still going to buy some new plugs and wires just for the simple fact that mine are stock still, and I don't like the idea of misfires.