Problem solved

 

Hot engines are harder to start sometimes because the starter is hot and pulls more current-maybe your battery is "iffy".

 

Check your codes, I bet you're getting some "lost comms". The fact that it's happening on startups would indicate a low voltage condition.

 

Problem solved

 

Some thing pull more current when HOT (like the starter). The NO COMMS is Lost Communication between any of the onboard computers with each other or their sensors. This can happen in low voltage situations-the column lock system as well as the ABS/TC systems are particularly touchy about voltages.

 

Ignition switch?

 

Do you have the manual or automatic air conditioning? Which steering system? I'm looking through all the schematics right now for a common link and need to know the exact items. Also which gauges don't work?

 

......and the codes would do most of that work for you......

 

Problem solved

 

Problem solved

 

It wouldn't take long to run the battery down if the alternator was not working.

Do you know how to extract the diagnostic codes from the car? If not search the forum for instructions and then post those codes.

 

ELECTRONIC STEERING??????????: NOPE!

READ AND POST YOUR DTCs!!!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Problem solved

 

The codes will help tell the tale as such, but adding here that just because you put in a new battery, doesn't mean its a good one. There are bad ones out there. Also, you might want to look at the battery connections to insure they are clean and properly tightened as well as the starter solenoid battery connection as this is where the battery, alternator, fuse boxes and of course the starter, all come together.

 

Problem solved

 

Those codes are sprinkled all over the place. I suggest you clear them each and all, then restart and see what comes back.

 

Isn't there a variable resistance steering system that uses electric signal(s)?

 

YES! Its called "MAGNASTEER" and its incorporated into the steering rack. It FIRMS up the steering feel at highway speeds and during emergent maneuvers. Nothing more.

agiddens

Originally Posted by agiddens
I hope you don't think I'm an idiot for the electric steering question; my wife's 05 Cobalt had it. Thought it might be a possibility.

There are several platforms these days that use steer by wire. NO ONE was calling anything for that comment. I was just confirming that the C5 and C6 do not use STEER BY WIRE,

BC

 

Perhaps this system is in fact "firming" up the steering when it shouldn't causing the OP to believe there is a power steering problem?

 

Problem solved