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I have been fighting this for awhile. I have no reverse...[I]ts not even selectable and cannot be forced in...its like it doesn't exist. I have a 2001 Z06 wit an M6 RPM style built tranny. I have tried adjusting the Tick master and once before this helped and reverse was smooth as silk but then was gone again after a short while. I fully replaced and bled the master as well as replaced the reverse lockout solinoid. I am getting 12.06 volts to the wiring on the ;\lockout solinoid so this is not the issue. When reverse was working it never grinded and felt fine. Now its been gone for a few months with no ryhm or reason. No sure what to check next. I have a dual ACT clutch and B&M Sport shifter as well. I do notice that ever since replacing my tranny from the M12 version that my shifter has 2 nuetral positions and gates are further apart but the tranny seems fine other than no reverse.
It's the shifting fork that lost the plastic tips that fits into the shifting collar groove. Had it happen to me. Look at this pic and see the black plastic tips? It's a crappy design.
Last edited by sfc rick; Jul 10, 2011 at 01:00 PM.
And since it does have to come out......R&R your clutch,flywheel,pressure plate, slave cylinder since it's right there.
Edited: But I see you just installed new clutch and stuff, so ignore my advice on the clutch and flywheel.
I have had my car apart about 3 times in the last 5 years....I had everything just how I wanted it now this...F&*k. I have someone who can fix it qoiuck just need to find time to pull her out...may be awhile
It's the shifting fork that lost the plastic tips that fits into the shifting collar groove. Had it happen to me. Look at this pic and see the black plastic tips? It's a crappy design.
Probably not, because his plastic parts have already been replaced with bronze ones by RPM.
If it was a clutch disengagement problem, I'd think you'd have a problem engaging first too.
I just finished installing a clutch 3 times after having engagement/disengagement problems. I measured the distance between the fingers and throwout bearing after discovering it was slightly out of tolerance. I made a .065" sheet metal shim and placed it under the slave. It calls for a space between .100 and .225". Doing that moved the point of full engagement, but it still wouldn't shift into reverse. The way to tell if you have an engagement problem is to jack up the rear, start the car, push in the clutch, put it in 1st and if the wheels turn, your clutch is dragging. Another test I did was to try to put it in reverse and while holding the shifter in that attempt, I would turn the car off. It would pop right in with the car off. I was warned that the clutch manufacturer would test it, replace everything, but tell me there was nothing wrong. After getting the replacement back, it worked perfectly.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; Jul 10, 2011 at 05:28 PM.
I would try adjusting the bushing that ties the shifter in to the shift rod before pulling anything. I had the same issue and solved by adjusting the bushing. I found it to be VERY sensitive, took several attempts to adjust properly.
I would try adjusting the bushing that ties the shifter in to the shift rod before pulling anything. I had the same issue and solved by adjusting the bushing. I found it to be VERY sensitive, took several attempts to adjust properly.
when you say bushing do you mean the plastic piece that seats in the shifter rod?
No, there is a sleeve behind the shifter that couples it to the rod that goes to the trans. The sleeve is adjusted with an allen wrench and controls the pitch of the shifter and the feel of the gates. Mine moved a bit to the left towards first gear and I could no longer shift into reverse. Loosen the allen bolt and move the shifter left and right and you will figure out where it needs to be to get all gears shifting/feeling proper. One other note, how tight you lock down that allen bolt also effects the feel of shifting. Took me about half an hour to get it right but my car shifts so much better than it ever has. I spent five years literally muscling it into reverse with two hands and thinking it was a clutch dragging problem.
Originally Posted by MotleyDrew
when you say bushing do you mean the plastic piece that seats in the shifter rod?
No, there is a sleeve behind the shifter that couples it to the rod that goes to the trans. The sleeve is adjusted with an allen wrench and controls the pitch of the shifter and the feel of the gates. Mine moved a bit to the left towards first gear and I could no longer shift into reverse. Loosen the allen bolt and move the shifter left and right and you will figure out where it needs to be to get all gears shifting/feeling proper. One other note, how tight you lock down that allen bolt also effects the feel of shifting. Took me about half an hour to get it right but my car shifts so much better than it ever has. I spent five years literally muscling it into reverse with two hands and thinking it was a clutch dragging problem.
Sounds like you're talking about an aftermarket shifter.
Drew,
I expect that even if the reverse lockout solenoid were broken, it would still let you engage reverse with the car turned off. I have seen the collar come loose on the shifter adjustment before, but that only created a situation where you had to push it hard over to the right to engage reverse. RagtopWS6 (aka Rick Kim from RKT56.com) is a supporting vendor and one hell of a trans builder and great guy. You might PM him for ideas as well.
The collar I am talking about is the same regardless of the shifter. When my collar came loose, as you reference, I physically could not get my trans in reverse, not possible. Depending on how you adjust the collar radially, you can lock it too far in either direction and loose 1st/2nd or reverse. Definitely an easy 5 minute deal to check it before he pulls anything apart.
Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Sounds like you're talking about an aftermarket shifter.
Drew,
I expect that even if the reverse lockout solenoid were broken, it would still let you engage reverse with the car turned off. I have seen the collar come loose on the shifter adjustment before, but that only created a situation where you had to push it hard over to the right to engage reverse. RagtopWS6 (aka Rick Kim from RKT56.com) is a supporting vendor and one hell of a trans builder and great guy. You might PM him for ideas as well.
I have been fighting this for awhile. I have no reverse...[I]ts not even selectable and cannot be forced in...its like it doesn't exist. I have a 2001 Z06 wit an M6 RPM style built tranny. I have tried adjusting the Tick master and once before this helped and reverse was smooth as silk but then was gone again after a short while. I fully replaced and bled the master as well as replaced the reverse lockout solinoid. I am getting 12.06 volts to the wiring on the ;\lockout solinoid so this is not the issue. When reverse was working it never grinded and felt fine. Now its been gone for a few months with no ryhm or reason. No sure what to check next. I have a dual ACT clutch and B&M Sport shifter as well. I do notice that ever since replacing my tranny from the M12 version that my shifter has 2 nuetral positions and gates are further apart but the tranny seems fine other than no reverse.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by MotleyDrew
Hey guys
I have been fighting this for awhile. I have no reverse...[I]ts not even selectable and cannot be forced in...its like it doesn't exist. I have a 2001 Z06 wit an M6 RPM style built tranny. I have tried adjusting the Tick master and once before this helped and reverse was smooth as silk but then was gone again after a short while. I fully replaced and bled the master as well as replaced the reverse lockout solinoid. I am getting 12.06 volts to the wiring on the ;\lockout solinoid so this is not the issue. When reverse was working it never grinded and felt fine. Now its been gone for a few months with no ryhm or reason. No sure what to check next. I have a dual ACT clutch and B&M Sport shifter as well. I do notice that ever since replacing my tranny from the M12 version that my shifter has 2 nuetral positions and gates are further apart but the tranny seems fine other than no reverse.
please let me know what you think as this is getting very frustrating,
thanks
Try this for me. Remove the reverse lockout solenoid (remove the 13mm bolt holding the solenoid to the "dog house" on the top of the trans) and see if the trans goes into reverse. If it does, then it's the angular piece the reverse solenoid screws into. There is a large push pin that can be pushed back when the reverse solenoid retracts but when this pin gets stuck, there is no way to get it into reverse. try that and post your findings.
The collar I am talking about is the same regardless of the shifter. When my collar came loose, as you reference, I physically could not get my trans in reverse, not possible. Depending on how you adjust the collar radially, you can lock it too far in either direction and loose 1st/2nd or reverse. Definitely an easy 5 minute deal to check it before he pulls anything apart.
Necro thread but
The same thing has happened to me (no reverse with car off or on), just after installing an aggressive cam, I suspect the increased vibration has moved the collar.
Is that the allen key bolt you use to adjust the sleeve on the lower right corner of the picture below?
The same thing has happened to me (no reverse with car off or on), just after installing an aggressive cam, I suspect the increased vibration has moved the collar.
Is that the allen key bolt you use to adjust the sleeve on the lower right corner of the picture below?