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After a short cruise to dinner with the local club with absolutely no problems, started the car to head home the dic displays low oil pressure and the gauge reads zero. Killed it imediately and checked the usual -evidence of leaks, oil level, oil pressure sender(could barely see it but it wasn't leaking or damaged). After a few attempted again, still zero pressure, killed it. Had a friend listen as the exhaust is too loud inside the car to hear well and he hears the tell tale valve train clatter.
The car has been cammed about 40k ago.
I'm guessing 2 things right off the top of my head...
1. Broken oil pump rotor
2. Leaking oil pickup tube o-ring
There was no evidence of potential failure such as low oil pressure. Simply zero oil pressure on startup.
I doubt that the pump rotor broke. First suspect would be the sending unit, unless it is really loud at the valve train. You could pull the plugs, disconnect the injectors and then remove the oil filter. Spin the motor with the starter and see if oil comes out. If it is the pump, likely a stuck bypass.
I doubt that the pump rotor broke. First suspect would be the sending unit, unless it is really loud at the valve train. You could pull the plugs, disconnect the injectors and then remove the oil filter. Spin the motor with the starter and see if oil comes out. If it is the pump, likely a stuck bypass.
Sending units are weak link in these LS1's.... search forum and you'll see its a very common problem... good luck
Get a mechanical oil guage on it and check. I seem to recall therre is another oil gallery port you can use without pulling the intake, do an Advanced Search above and see what you find.
I doubt that the pump rotor broke. First suspect would be the sending unit, unless it is really loud at the valve train. You could pull the plugs, disconnect the injectors and then remove the oil filter. Spin the motor with the starter and see if oil comes out. If it is the pump, likely a stuck bypass.
BEEN THERE DONE THAT! Several things come to mind right off the bat!
I agree with VETTENUTS!! Remove the oil filter and see if you have a LARGE volume of oil flow from the pipe that the filter screws on to during cranking! You can even check and see if you have pressurized oil by placing your thumb over the outlet!
If you have flow, I recommend that you place a MECHANICAL GAGE in the front oil galley port on the block near #1 cylinder. That will pretty much nail down if you have the correct pressure or not.
My issue was an improperly installed MAP sensor extension harness. It grounded out the 5 VDC sensor reference voltage. RESULT,, equals ZERO PRESSURE on the IPC gages.
Removing the filter and installing a mechanical gage proved all was A OK!
If you have a serial buss issue, it can and will cause the IPC gages to malfunction. READ AND POST THE DTCs and see if you have any CODES!!
Clear all the DTCs if there are NUMEROUS DTCs and see what comes back at key on!
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Jul 12, 2011 at 11:05 AM.
No oil pressure. The valve train clatters like crazy. Going to drain the oil through a coffee filter or something similar to check for bearing parts and other shrapnel. Thanks for the replies and I'll update asap.
Oh god, exact same thing that happened to mine on my 2006 GTO, so no, they didn't improve the design at all from the ls1->ls2 lol.
Good job catching it early enough to avoid any damage.
The oil pumps themselves never just fail on these cars....its always that damn relief valve. My guess is contamination causes it to stick open. Just stay on top of the air filter cleaning/oil changes...That is all we can do I guess. I do not believe the ported versions (katech/slp) do anything to help this issue.
Oh god, exact same thing that happened to mine on my 2006 GTO, so no, they didn't improve the design at all from the ls1->ls2 lol.
Good job catching it early enough to avoid any damage.
The oil pumps themselves never just fail on these cars....its always that damn relief valve. My guess is contamination causes it to stick open. Just stay on top of the air filter cleaning/oil changes...That is all we can do I guess. I do not believe the ported versions (katech/slp) do anything to help this issue.
iIdont and didnt either. Thats why during my cam install i just simply replaced my stock oil pump with a stock oil pump . Putting out great pressure. 36-40psi hot idle on a 90*+ day and 65psi under WOT. To the OP great find before it was too late!
iIdont and didnt either. Thats why during my cam install i just simply replaced my stock oil pump with a stock oil pump . Putting out great pressure. 36-40psi hot idle on a 90*+ day and 65psi under WOT. To the OP great find before it was too late!
Yup. When I do my cam install in august its just getting a stock pump. Splurging on a good timing chain is always a good idea though . not saying the slps are bad.. I ran one on my gto. It gave me the exact oil pressure of stock. I suppose they make the oil flow a tad easier so the pump doesn't have to work as hard but to me that is kind of pointless because the stock pumps are already bullet proof minus the valve. Now if someone could find a way to alleviate the valve issue I'd be happy to spend the 200 on a pump.
The way the bore for the valve is machined leaves a very sharp/rough edge. If it were simply deburred without interfering with the smoothness of the bore it could potentially correct this problem.