No Start Electrical Issues
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Grand Prairie Texas
No Start Electrical Issues
I read the main post.. Hoping someone can guide me in the right direction.
The problem, Car will only start intermittently, less and less each time.
Display Reduced Power.
Troubleshooting so far, Replaced and Cleaned Battery. I have also cleaned the under hood chassis grounds. Here is a list of DTC's and it is quite long. Some I think maybe significant and some aren't. Hopefully posting here will narrow my trouble shooting scope. The car is a 98 Auto Trans. No issues up until this point. 50,760 miles.
Should I clear the DTC's simply because I think a lot of them are not relevant to this issue. If so, does anyone know how to clear them?
28-TCS C1281 H C
28-TCS C1288 H
60-IPC U1040 H C
60-IPC U1176 H C
60-IPC U1060 H C
AO-LCDM B2202 H
AO-LDCM B2282 H
AO-LCDM B2284 H
AO-LDCM B2284 H
AO-LDCM U1255 H
AO-LDCM U1016 H
AO-LDCM U1096 H
A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM U1255 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H
A1-RDCM U1016 H
A1-RDCM U1096 H
A1-RTCM B2253 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
28-TCS C1255 H
28-TCS C1278 H
28-TCS C1281 H C
28-TCS C1286 H C
28-TCS C1288 H
BCM NO COMM
BO-RFA no codes
The problem, Car will only start intermittently, less and less each time.
Display Reduced Power.
Troubleshooting so far, Replaced and Cleaned Battery. I have also cleaned the under hood chassis grounds. Here is a list of DTC's and it is quite long. Some I think maybe significant and some aren't. Hopefully posting here will narrow my trouble shooting scope. The car is a 98 Auto Trans. No issues up until this point. 50,760 miles.
Should I clear the DTC's simply because I think a lot of them are not relevant to this issue. If so, does anyone know how to clear them?
28-TCS C1281 H C
28-TCS C1288 H
60-IPC U1040 H C
60-IPC U1176 H C
60-IPC U1060 H C
AO-LCDM B2202 H
AO-LDCM B2282 H
AO-LCDM B2284 H
AO-LDCM B2284 H
AO-LDCM U1255 H
AO-LDCM U1016 H
AO-LDCM U1096 H
A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM B2283 H
A1-RDCM U1255 H
A1-RDCM U1064 H
A1-RDCM U1016 H
A1-RDCM U1096 H
A1-RTCM B2253 H
A1-RDCM B2285 H
28-TCS C1255 H
28-TCS C1278 H
28-TCS C1281 H C
28-TCS C1286 H C
28-TCS C1288 H
BCM NO COMM
BO-RFA no codes
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,101
Likes: 789
From: Espanola New Mexico
You stated that the car will start intermittently, please be more specific when posting problems such as this so forum members can help determine what is happening. Does the engine crank over but fails to start, or when you turn the key to start dos the engine crank over?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Grand Prairie Texas
You stated that the car will start intermittently, please be more specific when posting problems such as this so forum members can help determine what is happening. Does the engine crank over but fails to start, or when you turn the key to start dos the engine crank over?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,101
Likes: 789
From: Espanola New Mexico
It could be a number of things, I would start by checking battery cables on battery, also check connections on starter. You can try finding something to rap the starter with and see if it will crank after you do that, if it cranks then you will need to replace starter.
Do you hear a relay clinking inside the car when you turn the key to start it, if you don't then something is going on with your Theft Deterrent system, it could be your clutch switch if its a manual transmission or neutral safety switch if its an automatic, and lastly it could be your ignition switch, or dirty contacts on your key.
Do you hear a relay clinking inside the car when you turn the key to start it, if you don't then something is going on with your Theft Deterrent system, it could be your clutch switch if its a manual transmission or neutral safety switch if its an automatic, and lastly it could be your ignition switch, or dirty contacts on your key.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Grand Prairie Texas
60-IPC U1040 H
60-IPC U1176 H C
60-IPC U1160 H C
Okay and now for a twist.... If I disconnect the battery for 3 minutes and reconnect the car starts every time.
Anyone have any ideas on this?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I hate guessing but when your sitting 1500 miles away behind a computer screen, its difficult to gather suttle clues that may be present that you dont see tha may help pin point the issue.
That said,, read this post and if you can, use it to help pinpoint the issue. All thoses dtcs semed to be some what related and caused by a common issue.
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
BC
That said,, read this post and if you can, use it to help pinpoint the issue. All thoses dtcs semed to be some what related and caused by a common issue.
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
BC
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Grand Prairie Texas
I hate guessing but when your sitting 1500 miles away behind a computer screen, its difficult to gather suttle clues that may be present that you dont see tha may help pin point the issue.
That said,, read this post and if you can, use it to help pinpoint the issue. All thoses dtcs semed to be some what related and caused by a common issue.
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
BC
That said,, read this post and if you can, use it to help pinpoint the issue. All thoses dtcs semed to be some what related and caused by a common issue.
- C5 ignition Switch repair - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-repair.html
BC
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Were these codes pulled right after the car failed to start or after you started the car after disconnecting the battery?
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
7 Bolt-On Upgrades From Extreme Online Store to Level Up Your C6 Corvette
Pouria Savadkouei
How Likely Are These Five 2027 Corvette Rumors to Be True?
Brett Foote
9 Best Corvettes You Can Buy for Half Price (& 1 You Should NEVER Buy!)
Joe Kucinski
8 Very Best Corvettes of Amelia Island 2026
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 WORST Corvette Engineering Failures of All Time!
Joe Kucinski
10 Records the C8 Corvette Generation Has SMASHED (& 1 Glaring Failure)
Joe Kucinski
7 Wildest Corvette Concepts Ever Made
Brett Foote
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Grand Prairie Texas
After the failed start. I also should mention when the car starts, it runs drives fine, Once the key is removed from the ignition and wait five minutes, it is dead again. The gauge clusters cycle I get the reduced power message and the windows will not roll down. Disconnect the battery for 3 minutes, car starts fine and runs like a champ.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 2
I am now having this exact same problem. It has gotten worse over time. I am now to about 2-3 times a week that this happens where I get in the car and the gauge cluster comes on fine no issues and then I turn the key and nothing, it doesn't crank it makes no noise nothing. In fact all the gauges essentially go black and then when I let off on the key they come back on. Up until 2 days ago I could wait a few minutes and then it would start up no problem. Very frustrating. I thought it might be the battery dying so I too it to Oreilly's and they tested the battery and it tested bad, so I went and got a new battery 2 days ago and it's still doing this. I will say that I can turn the key to the run position and push start it with no problem it starts right up... but this is a colossal pain in the ***. Please help!
I have an 01 c5 vert.
I have an 01 c5 vert.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Plain and simple...... You are MOST LIKELY having a starter SOLENOID issue. They are well known to do exactly what yours is doing.
Insure that the wires on the starter solenoid are clean and tight.
If you BANG the starter with a long wooden dowel, while someone holds the key to CRANK, I bet you a COLD ONE that the engine will crank.
You can replace the solenoid for around $50- but,, the starter has to be removed.
Old starter,, new solenoid! Worked like a champ!!
The Theft Deterrent Relay could be failing but my bet is on a bad solenoid.
Insure that the wires on the starter solenoid are clean and tight.
If you BANG the starter with a long wooden dowel, while someone holds the key to CRANK, I bet you a COLD ONE that the engine will crank.
You can replace the solenoid for around $50- but,, the starter has to be removed.
Old starter,, new solenoid! Worked like a champ!!
The Theft Deterrent Relay could be failing but my bet is on a bad solenoid.
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Belcamp MD
Plain and simple...... You are MOST LIKELY having a starter SOLENOID issue. They are well known to do exactly what yours is doing. Insure that the wires on the starter solenoid are clean and tight. If you BANG the starter with a long wooden dowel, while someone holds the key to CRANK, I bet you a COLD ONE that the engine will crank. You can replace the solenoid for around $50- but,, the starter has to be removed. Old starter,, new solenoid! Worked like a champ!! The Theft Deterrent Relay could be failing but my bet is on a bad solenoid.
I replaced and cleaned my pos/neg wires while down there but thats because i had a battery leak as well. 3 years strong, no starting issues.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
LOL!! I absolutely HATE to easter egg parts into problems. When I was in the Navy, it was easy to say a $100,000 part was bad and throw a new one in.
WOOPS,,,,
That wasn't it. Off to the next $100,000 part :-D No one gave a Rats A$$ if you were wrong or not. It was just the cost of doing business.
SO,,,,,,,,, I took great pains to save the Tax Payers money and trouble shot the problem until I knew without a doubt that the module / part in question was the real issue.
Same goes for what I tell people here and I do with my own cars. Why replace stuff if it is NOT bad and not going to FIX THE ISSUE.
Thump the solenoid. If it is the problem, the THUMP will work each and everytime. If you thump the starter and it changes nothing,,,,,,,, it most likely is NOT the solenoid.
I also use TOOLS. The meter (AC/DC/ Volt/ Ohm/Amp meter is an invaluable tool. You can NOT save cash if you cant troubleshoot. I made it a point early in my career to learn how to effectively troubleshoot.
Long story short,, DO NOT just swap parts. Figure out whats bad and save the cash for something nice.
Bill
WOOPS,,,,
That wasn't it. Off to the next $100,000 part :-D No one gave a Rats A$$ if you were wrong or not. It was just the cost of doing business. SO,,,,,,,,, I took great pains to save the Tax Payers money and trouble shot the problem until I knew without a doubt that the module / part in question was the real issue.
Same goes for what I tell people here and I do with my own cars. Why replace stuff if it is NOT bad and not going to FIX THE ISSUE.
Thump the solenoid. If it is the problem, the THUMP will work each and everytime. If you thump the starter and it changes nothing,,,,,,,, it most likely is NOT the solenoid.
I also use TOOLS. The meter (AC/DC/ Volt/ Ohm/Amp meter is an invaluable tool. You can NOT save cash if you cant troubleshoot. I made it a point early in my career to learn how to effectively troubleshoot.
Long story short,, DO NOT just swap parts. Figure out whats bad and save the cash for something nice.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 29, 2014 at 12:47 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 41
Likes: 2
I totally agree with you Bill!!!! I want to save myself money as well and frankly prefer to troubleshoot and know exactly what the issue is because I only want to fix this one time...
So from this thread I have gleaned that the starter solenoid is accessible via under the hood with something that can reach it (a dowel rod) to give it a good thump and is somewhere under the battery side.
I will say that as soon as I started reading your thread on fixing the ignition switch I went all deer in the headlights as soon as I saw the wiring schematic.
I try to fix most everything myself, but for some reason that just intimidated me. lol
So from this thread I have gleaned that the starter solenoid is accessible via under the hood with something that can reach it (a dowel rod) to give it a good thump and is somewhere under the battery side.
I will say that as soon as I started reading your thread on fixing the ignition switch I went all deer in the headlights as soon as I saw the wiring schematic.
I try to fix most everything myself, but for some reason that just intimidated me. lol
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 855
From: Walhalla South Carolina
Bill what does thumping the starter do to make it work if it is bad. I like to understand any action I do, I am just wrapped that way. Obviously it shakes something up inside to make it work if it is a bad starter or solenoid. Does the big hammer method indicate a bad starter of bad solenoid?? Thanks
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,396
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Theres a metal contact disk towards the wire end of the solenoid. It acts as the high current switch for the starter motor.
When you turn the key to start, the theft deterrent relay sends 12 VDC 60 amps to the solenoid.
The solenoid should magnetize and send the metal spool inside the solenoid toward that metal disk to move it into the main motor contacts.
That metal spool some how hangs up and fails to slide.
It only takes a bump to get it to move.
The LS2 in my sons wrangler jeep does this all the time. He has a pair of vise grips in the jeep under the seat. He runs out, wraps the starter with the vise grips, runs back in turns the key and it starts.
He says,, Ah,, one day I will get around to changing it out.
Now,,,, Ive seen a couple of cases where the wires are loose on the solenoid and the thump causes the wires to make better contact. I would check that first.
I have also see the plastic housing on the end of the solenoid get brittle and break and cause the same thing
Go lay an eye on it.
Bill
When you turn the key to start, the theft deterrent relay sends 12 VDC 60 amps to the solenoid.
The solenoid should magnetize and send the metal spool inside the solenoid toward that metal disk to move it into the main motor contacts.
That metal spool some how hangs up and fails to slide.
It only takes a bump to get it to move.
The LS2 in my sons wrangler jeep does this all the time. He has a pair of vise grips in the jeep under the seat. He runs out, wraps the starter with the vise grips, runs back in turns the key and it starts.
He says,, Ah,, one day I will get around to changing it out.
Now,,,, Ive seen a couple of cases where the wires are loose on the solenoid and the thump causes the wires to make better contact. I would check that first.
I have also see the plastic housing on the end of the solenoid get brittle and break and cause the same thing
Go lay an eye on it.
Bill