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6-8 including replacing the valve springs? Or is that just for the cam?
When I did my cam about 2 years ago, it took 15 hours from start to finish to install the cam and valvesprings.
When the blower cam (2nd cam) went in, I had someone else do it.
Get ready for the pucker factor when you go to turn the key after everything is buttoned up. You think, God.....please let this turn over with no issues.
Then you realized you forgot to hook up a fuel line lol.
It will be fun. Be sure to have gloves, safety glasses, beer, and band aids
Hands down the hardest part with the cam install will be the uninstall/install of the power steering rack. Its like playing "tetris". When you are to the point of installing the rack DO NOT pound on it with anything, I have heard that the ears of the rack can break off fairly easily.
If your steering wheel still locks (no bypass), then you will be fine.
***VERY IMPORTANT***
Oil pump:
Lube the heck out of the o-ring with assembly lube. Make sure that that when inserting the pickup tube back into the pump to insert it straight in. It should slip in almost effortlessly and it will kind of "pop" into place. If you pinch the o-ring at all, and its very easy to do, you will have horrible oil pressure and you will have to tear it all down again. You will know that you did it right when the pickup tube sits flush against the pump with no bolts holding it in. Remember if you are forcing it at all, you are doing it wrong and you will pinch that o-ring.
Ok I will, I've heard about it causing issues. I have three rings, one is thicker than the other two. Any idea which one is needed? I guess i'll figure it out when I pull the pump off if not.
Guess I'll go pick up some assembly lube when I'm off work.
Originally Posted by CTD
This is good refreshing thread as I'm about change out my cam ......it's been awhile. A couple of things come back.
If you are manual 6th gear & the E Brake should hold the motor for the Pulley bolt removal. If you heat the head of it with a portable torch that will loosen the loc tite & make it much easier to remove.
The dreaded Oil Pump O'ring, when I had the top end back together, push rods, rocker arms, shut down the fuel pump, tinning chain cover still off, plugs out, I spun the motor over until all the rockers loaded up with oil & most importantly Oil Pressure!
Make sure to fabricate a pulley installer, some threaded rod & some big washers. Pull the pulley using the nuts on the threaded rather risking damage to the threads in the crankshaft.
Like this
Originally Posted by MT0911
Good luck with the install man! I'm about to tackle a H/C/I + Longtubes/Exhaust install at the end of next month once I get the rest of my parts in. I'll be looking forward to hearing you reach completion .
Thanks
The plan is to start this afternoon by getting the oil and coolant out and a few other odds and send, don't plan on digging to deep into it until tomorrow.
I'm hoping for the best and expecting the worst
Originally Posted by NastyZ
When I did my cam about 2 years ago, it took 15 hours from start to finish to install the cam and valvesprings.
When the blower cam (2nd cam) went in, I had someone else do it.
Get ready for the pucker factor when you go to turn the key after everything is buttoned up. You think, God.....please let this turn over with no issues.
Then you realized you forgot to hook up a fuel line lol.
It will be fun. Be sure to have gloves, safety glasses, beer, and band aids
I've realized that it wouldn't have been that much more for me to have had someone do the install with all the money I spent on tools for this job
Ok so far today I did the following:
-Drained Coolant and oil
-Removed Plugs and wires
-Pulled Alternator
-Removed water pump
-Removed Throttle body and Air Intake
Does anyone know if the sway bar needs to be removed? I can just unbolt the for bolts holding the two front brackets to the car and it looks like it'll drop enough to pull the cam. I could be wrong though.
Originally Posted by CTD
I just looked at your cam spec's
You will be happy you bought all the tools when you pull that cam out to replace it with some thing civil
What are your tuning plans?
There is a local guy here who will be doing the tune for me. If that doesn't work out I will be seeing Speed Inc since they aren't too far away.
I can't seem to get my rods I have to hold the lifters up in. Is there a secret to this? No matter how hard I push the A/C Condenser back the rod doesn't have enough room to go in.
Thanks
Josh
Last edited by About2Bite; Jul 21, 2011 at 03:03 PM.
I can't seem to get my rods I have to hold the lifters up in. Is there a secret to this? No matter how hard I push the A/C Condenser back the rod doesn't have enough room to go in.
Thanks
Josh
Not sure what your issue is. Your original post before you edited it said you can't turn the cam by hand. That's a problem. If you have the cam gear off, rockers and push rods out, it should spin freely. I didn't have to move my A/C compressor so not sure what you are doing. Maybe post a pic?
No the cam will spin without a problem. There just is not enough room to get the rods in, I know someone used a rod longer than mine and it worked. Even when we push the condenser back the rod won't go. I just bought some magnetic pens I might try that route, but it looked like all the lifters were up, maybe I'll just pull the cam out and see what happens, cars only got 100k on it.. Ha
Also my crank bolt came out with just a ratchet no problem, the bolt took no force at all, that doesn't seem right.
I had issues getting the rod to fit on one side so I bought a smaller diameter dow rod and it work perfectly. Did you cut the metal rods the correct length?
I already put the cam in, it didn't seem like any of the lifters fell, I had the pen magnets in though so I wouldn't think any would have.
I just swapped out the springs in one of the cylinders and I can say that the Comp compressor is an amazing tool.
I was going to ask about the steering wheel. I got in the car to put the car in gear and was not thinking and grabbed the steering wheel. I thought it would have locked but it didn't. I tried to but it back to where I thought it was when I removed the column but am not 100% sure it's in the exact same spot. It may be off a few degrees or so. Should I be ok or is this going to cause a problem?
I already put the cam in, it didn't seem like any of the lifters fell, I had the pen magnets in though so I wouldn't think any would have.
I just swapped out the springs in one of the cylinders and I can say that the Comp compressor is an amazing tool.
I was going to ask about the steering wheel. I got in the car to put the car in gear and was not thinking and grabbed the steering wheel. I thought it would have locked but it didn't. I tried to but it back to where I thought it was when I removed the column but am not 100% sure it's in the exact same spot. It may be off a few degrees or so. Should I be ok or is this going to cause a problem?
Foolish move on my part
If one of the lifters had dropped the cam would not have gone in.
As long as you did not turn the wheel a large amount you will be fine.
I can't seem to get my rods I have to hold the lifters up in. Is there a secret to this? No matter how hard I push the A/C Condenser back the rod doesn't have enough room to go in.
Thanks
Josh
The A/c condenser was a problem for me also, I had the heads off so I didnt need the rods, but I barely got the cam out. We bent a bunch of the fins removing it. I had a friend holding the cond. up as far as the lines would let it go. If I have a do over I'm taking the ac cond. out with the rad.
I already put the cam in, it didn't seem like any of the lifters fell, I had the pen magnets in though so I wouldn't think any would have.
I just swapped out the springs in one of the cylinders and I can say that the Comp compressor is an amazing tool.
I was going to ask about the steering wheel. I got in the car to put the car in gear and was not thinking and grabbed the steering wheel. I thought it would have locked but it didn't. I tried to but it back to where I thought it was when I removed the column but am not 100% sure it's in the exact same spot. It may be off a few degrees or so. Should I be ok or is this going to cause a problem?
Foolish move on my part
You cant get the steering wheel off a couple degrees. I believe it can only be 360* off because the steering shaft will only slide on the rack in one spot.
And yes the car will probably run just run rough if its not tuned