Well after having these parts sitting in a box for a few months I've finally grown the confidence to take on the install.

The following is a list of parts I have for the swap:
-Thunder Racing T-Rex Cam (242/248 - .608/.612 - 110 lsa)
-Patriot Extreme valve springs with Ti retainers
-Hardened Pushrods
-LS2 timing chain
-Melling High Volume Oil Pump
-Gaskets
-Crank Bolt

Here are the tools I have:
-OTC Pulley puller
-Crank install tool similar to the Hawk tool
-Crane valve spring compressor
-5/8" Wooden Dowel Rods
-SnapOn 1/2" Troque Wrench
-Various sockets, ractchets, breaker bar, etc
--Still need to get a torch to heat up the crank bolt.

As far as the install is concerned I have the LS1howto printed out and the service manuals info on reinstalling the rockers.

I am still a bit weary on the steering rack removal. Why does everyone strap the steering wheel so it won't move? I figured the wheel would lock and not be able to move if the car was not on? I have the 18mm flare nut wrench as well as a crows foot 18mm flare nut. Any advice on this would be great.

Also, anyone know what doesn't need to be removed in a cam only install that the Heads Cam swap needs. I know the the intake, heads, and headers can stay on I just don't know what else doesn't need to be pulled.

This is the first time I've tackeled something this big, I just put long tubes, offroad x, and SLP Loudmouth on the car myself but obviously this is a lot more involved. I understand how the valvetrain works and what the parts are that I'm going to be removing I just want to get any advice from people who have done this since the more knowledge the better

If you're wondering, yes I've read the info on the forum and done plenty of searches

 

Here is a nice little picture of all the parts

 

my steering wheel no longer locks because I bypassed the column lock. looks like a fun week, are you going to get a new pulley?

 

Oh ok, so I shouldn't have to worry about finding a way to secure the wheel then?

I don't plan on replacing the lower pulley, the previous owner put a new one on shortly before I bought the car. Probably not even 10k miles ago.

If was thinking about doing a stock sized powerbond balancer but decided against it.

For anyone wondering the Chrysler puller from Auto Zone is the same as the one recommended for our balancer. Wish Id have known that prior to making the purchase of my puller.

 

Steering wheel is not a big deal, just make sure the wheels are straight before disconnecting it from the steering box. Just be careful when installing the headers that you don't rotate the shaft 180 degrees.

 

Ok thanks for the info

I already have the headers and rest of the exhaust on, got that on not too long ago.

I'm going to try not to move any of the steering stuff once I have it disconnected from the rack. I plan on having the front end aligned once the cam and tune are done.

 

Make absolutely sure you Loc-Tite your cam bolts. "Cam walk" is not something you want to experience.

 

And be sure you prep the threads (clean), install new bolts and torque per specs.....

That is a big stick How is your PTV clearance?

 

With that CAM, LTs and SLP LMs...your car is going to be LOUD! I ran that setup with off-road x-pipe (I did have some CNC'd heads), but the car was LOUD!

Those DYNATECH LTs? If so, that is what I ran and it was an interesting CAR at both idle and WOT!

 

So sneaking quietly back into the garage late at night is not in the cards?

 

Nope, he will be heard blocks away.

 

Why do you need/want a torch for the pulley bolt?

 

um, by 5/8 wooden "doll" rods did you mean the dowel rods used for holding up the lifters? If so the size you need is actually 5/16"(about the diameter of a pencil).

 

that is why i am doing head and cams at the same time. i know how my luck normally runs so i will probably be pulling the head anyway to retrieve a lifter I am just going to plan on it.

 

The headers and X pipe are OBX

I hear the crank bolt comes off quite a bit easier with a little heat. I planned on just using my breaker bar first but if that didn't work I would have the torch for back up.

Wow good call, I bought the wrong rods, I think I'm going to try to find some metal ones and cut them down to the proper legnth.

Any idea how long the rods should be?

Great catch

Thanks

 

Not only do you not want to install the steering shaft off 180º, you dont want to install it off 360º either. It will set traction control codes as the car thinks you are driving down the street with steering wheel turned.

In many cam swaps, Ive never used anything on than the lifter treys to hold up the lifters when swapping the cam. Just pull out smoothly and reinsert smoothly/quickly and you shouldnt have any issues.

 

Good luck. I did heads, cam, and headers a couple of months ago and it was the first time I had tore into a LS engine. It may look intimidating but overall it is not any harder to work on than a regular SBC. I made a checklist to go buy and took my time doing the work, double checking everything I did. Also keep a digital camera close by to take photographs of things before you take them apart. The pictures really come in handy when putting the wires around the fan area back together. Another tip is to put the bolts, parts, ect. in baggies and label them with a sharpie that way you have no confusion over what goes where. Again good luck with your project.

 

Oh I have plenty of platic bags and a sharpie to keep everything organized. I plan on taking pictures I just tend to get so into the job I forget about the camera and have nothing to refer to, lets hope that doesn't happen

 

I am in the process of a LS1 -> 402 LS2 swap, and I found it much easier to lower the front cradle than to pull the steering rack, depending what equipment you have.

 

You bet, I still have the ones I used in the garage. I cut them at 28.5" long and they worked great.

I kept everything orginized by laying it all out on a big piece(s) of cardboard. you can even draw boxes and labels around the stuff if you want. Really not too much to the cam job though, you'll be fine