harmonic balancer
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 486
Likes: 3
From: Sutherlin Oregon
harmonic balancer
Have noise under the hood. replaced the harmonic balancer. it was not in line with belt. Still noisy. replaced tensioner , still noisy. replaced idler
heard the noise and noticed the harmonic balancer is still off at an angle.
and the noise is still there. even replaced the serpentine belt. any ideas?
other than to live with the noise. and would the Harmonic balancer be crooked because of the bolt?
heard the noise and noticed the harmonic balancer is still off at an angle.
and the noise is still there. even replaced the serpentine belt. any ideas?
other than to live with the noise. and would the Harmonic balancer be crooked because of the bolt?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 486
Likes: 3
From: Sutherlin Oregon
No. I don't have that priv. also not any avail. I can not because I am not over where my car is. When myself and My good friend/mechanic (his business) replaced all of the pullies and the balancer, we dropped the rack and pinion, removed everything. what a pain in the kister that was. still hand a heck of a time getting the bolt out. I am wondering if it might have been changed prior to me and they cross threaded the bolt.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 21,325
Likes: 3,841
From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Have noise under the hood. replaced the harmonic balancer. it was not in line with belt. Still noisy. replaced tensioner , still noisy. replaced idler
heard the noise and noticed the harmonic balancer is still off at an angle.
and the noise is still there. even replaced the serpentine belt. any ideas?
other than to live with the noise. and would the Harmonic balancer be crooked because of the bolt?
heard the noise and noticed the harmonic balancer is still off at an angle.
and the noise is still there. even replaced the serpentine belt. any ideas?
other than to live with the noise. and would the Harmonic balancer be crooked because of the bolt?
1)Replaced the harmonic balancer. With What ?
2)HB still off at an angle... Installed improperly, or reused the original bolt.
3) replaced Idler and tensioner. Did you replace both Idlers and both tensioners?
4) Once the HB was replaced did you replace both belts.
Bill aka ET
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Based on your description, I believe you may have thread issues on the crank due to improper removal and installation.
Did you use the proper tools for removal and especially installation?
If you didn't use the proper tools, how was the new pulley pressed onto the crank snout? (Note this is an interference fit)
Since you didn't replace the bolt, if the correct methods were used to remove and press on the pulley, the bolt may have backed out. If you used the old bolt to press on the pulley you likely buggered up the threads and it never correctly bottomed on the crank snout. Hard to provide recommended solutions without more detailed information on the methods and tools used.
Did you use the proper tools for removal and especially installation?
If you didn't use the proper tools, how was the new pulley pressed onto the crank snout? (Note this is an interference fit)
Since you didn't replace the bolt, if the correct methods were used to remove and press on the pulley, the bolt may have backed out. If you used the old bolt to press on the pulley you likely buggered up the threads and it never correctly bottomed on the crank snout. Hard to provide recommended solutions without more detailed information on the methods and tools used.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
The data that you have supplied leaves many questions:
1)Replaced the harmonic balancer. With What ?
2)HB still off at an angle... Installed improperly, or reused the original bolt.
3) replaced Idler and tensioner. Did you replace both Idlers and both tensioners?
4) Once the HB was replaced did you replace both belts.
Bill aka ET
1)Replaced the harmonic balancer. With What ?
2)HB still off at an angle... Installed improperly, or reused the original bolt.
3) replaced Idler and tensioner. Did you replace both Idlers and both tensioners?
4) Once the HB was replaced did you replace both belts.
Bill aka ET
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 21,325
Likes: 3,841
From: small town in S.E Pa. PA
St. Jude Donor '03-'04
More questions
The OEM Balancer is ok but there are better choices.. the big culprit here is reusing the old bolt...
The old bolt is only used to get the New balancer on, once in place a New bolt is loctited in using the proper torque to yield procedure. Any deviation from this procedure will cause the balancer to move out of position. You should have replace the AC belt system tensioner and idler as well.
Not the best of News, but a least you got the right answers here.
You need to pull the rack remove that old bolt, Put in a new one, and change the AC pulleys, you don't need to replace the whole tensioner, just the pulley part.. they are about 18 dollars each at NAPA or other Parts store.
The old bolt is only used to get the New balancer on, once in place a New bolt is loctited in using the proper torque to yield procedure. Any deviation from this procedure will cause the balancer to move out of position. You should have replace the AC belt system tensioner and idler as well.
Not the best of News, but a least you got the right answers here.
You need to pull the rack remove that old bolt, Put in a new one, and change the AC pulleys, you don't need to replace the whole tensioner, just the pulley part.. they are about 18 dollars each at NAPA or other Parts store.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
Balancer
Remove balancer, replace with Quality replacement, new ARP bolt, use RED Loctite, torque to 240 ft #'s. consider pinning balancer. I wish I had.
I made a installation tool out of a piece of metric all thread and my old SBC installation tool bearing, it worked great. There is very little interference when installing the balancer that is why so much torque on the bolt is needed to retain the balancer. The balancer presses against the oil pump drive hub on the back and the bolt (washer) on the front.
I wish it were designed to spline to the oil pump drive sprocket or either keyed like the old motors.
I made a installation tool out of a piece of metric all thread and my old SBC installation tool bearing, it worked great. There is very little interference when installing the balancer that is why so much torque on the bolt is needed to retain the balancer. The balancer presses against the oil pump drive hub on the back and the bolt (washer) on the front.
I wish it were designed to spline to the oil pump drive sprocket or either keyed like the old motors.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
Good luck, Jerry. I hope you don't have a cross-threaded crank snout. Just make sure you have a new bolt, and use locktite, and install with old, remove and discard, tq new one correctly. I found that a 130mm long metric bolt with the same thread made it easy to install the new dampner, but I DON'T recommend using a factory replacement. They are a known defective part, and it's a gamble. I use a Powerbond, and in your case you can get a 25% underdrive unit, and get some cheap horsepower.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,302
Likes: 1,583
From: Western NY
Note that the GM procedure uses the old bolt for final seating after the damper is pressed on using the correct tool. Here is a link to the GM procedure:
Link
Link
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,353
Likes: 1,125
From: Dyer, IN
In this case, the service manual procedure is right on time. Why you feel a need to put your own spin on it, is beyond me......it just creates confusion for a novice. Dumb........
