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Just about ready to get a Blackwing and wanted to ask a quick question. I've read where A4 C5s need a computer tweak/reprogram to get the maximum use out of the intake. Is this necessary with the MN6?
I was thinking of the PCM relearn. What is the "idle" process?
Just unhook your negative battery cable for a few minutes, then hook it back up. Start the car and let it warm up to about 150. Let it idle with the A/C off for about 5 minutes, then turn the A/C on and let it idle for about 5 minutes. This will let your PCM relearn the idle. I know this way works for M6's and there is a slightly different technique for A4s so that the PCM learns the idle in neutral and in gear with both the A/C on and off.
I do this routine everytime I have to unhook the battery for one reason or another.
Also, drop me an email if you are interested in a good price on a Blackwing.
Just about ready to get a Blackwing and wanted to ask a quick question. I've read where A4 C5s need a computer tweak/reprogram to get the maximum use out of the intake. Is this necessary with the MN6?
TIA!!
In my opinion, unpopular as it is, save your money. We just had 30 some Corvettes at a Dyno day and non of the "breather" packages showed any real differences from stock set ups.
I've used the following after all of my intake changes:
Originally posted by C5 Pilot on 12-31-1999 at 12:29 AM:
Directly after install you are supposed to:
1) Insert key into ignition and turn to the "On" position but, DO NOT START THE ENGINE.
2) Pop open the fuse box cover and remove the two 10amp fuses from position numbers 16 & 23.
According to the manual there are 2 fuse boxes. Use the engine compartment fuse block for this procedure.
Instrument Panel Fuse Block (wrong one): 16 is Air bag and 22 is Body Control Module - Ignition and 23 is Body Control Module - Ignition 2.
Engine Compartment Fuse Block (correct one): 16 is Powertrain Control Module A and 23 is Powertrain Control Module B.
Note. Your DIC will now display "check" messages for ABS, etc... Do not worry. This is normal.
3) Go back to your cockpit and turn your key to the "Off" position.
4) Return to the fuse box and re-insert both 10amp fuses for positions 16 & 23.
5) Go back to your cockpit and start your engine. Allow engine coolant temperature to reach a minimum of 176 degrees F. Allow engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5 minutes.
6) After a minimum of 5 minutes, at 176F, shut down engine and let rest for a minimum of 30 seconds.
7) Restart engine - check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
8) Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCM will now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and air temperature at the intake.
If error codes persist, repeat steps 1-7. Make sure fuses are properly inserted before repeating steps. Do not void the sequence outlined above. If you do, restart sequence from scratch.
Steps 1-4 are also necessary if you ever disconnect your battery or lose power for any reason.
In my opinion, unpopular as it is, save your money. We just had 30 some Corvettes at a Dyno day and non of the "breather" packages showed any real differences from stock set ups.
I installed a COI, Vortex Rammer on my C5. Huge difference, no dyno needed, you could feel it by the seat of your pants. The best mod $$$ I've ever spend, feels like different car.
This discussion has got me thinking.......I installed the CAGS by-pass plug on my 2001 coupe last week. The supplied instructions said to disconnect the battery as "Step 1". Nowhere in the instructions did it say anything about doing the "Idle Re-learn", so I just re-connected the battery when I finished.
I've driven the car 100-125 miles since that time with no apparent problems. Am I (the car, that is) OK, or should I disconnect the battery and go through the process?
Thanks for your input.
In my opinion, unpopular as it is, save your money. We just had 30 some Corvettes at a Dyno day and non of the "breather" packages showed any real differences from stock set ups.
:confused: I've run my car on the same strretch of road, same day, back to back with the Donaldson and stock units. With the Donalson in I could break the tires loose in 3rd gear. Could not do that with the stock unit in. Not exactly a scientific test, but SOTP difference is real. :smash:
This discussion has got me thinking.......I installed the CAGS by-pass plug on my 2001 coupe last week. The supplied instructions said to disconnect the battery as "Step 1". Nowhere in the instructions did it say anything about doing the "Idle Re-learn", so I just re-connected the battery when I finished.
I've driven the car 100-125 miles since that time with no apparent problems. Am I (the car, that is) OK, or should I disconnect the battery and go through the process?
Thanks for your input.
Nothing like that would be required for the CAGS bypass... its just a couple of resistors... has nothing to do with the engine. I didn't really have to disconnect the battery either.
In my opinion, unpopular as it is, save your money. We just had 30 some Corvettes at a Dyno day and none of the "breather" packages showed any real differences from stock set ups.
Quantify "real"? There have been too many posts of confirmed gains (dyno) to imply there is no improvement. Have done my own combo's of Twin Flow, Donaldson, & Vortex.
As the air intake covers opened up with 2001 & 2002 (Z06), there should be lower gains, but still gains.
Re: quote: In my opinion, unpopular as it is, save your money. We just had 30 some Corvettes at a Dyno day and non of the "breather" packages showed any real differences from stock set ups.
I am not sure what dyno's you had access to, or what the conditions were under which you tested, but we have spent thousands of dollars with different versions of our products on the dyno (and can show you the certified results) and with our worst run we pulled off almost 11 hp and adveraged 14 hp. In fact, to become a officially licensed GM SPO Product, (which we are) these tests had to be certified and then re-tested by GM. We passed with flying colors. Now this might fall under your "any real differences" range, but we feel that it is quite significant, considering the HP per $ ratio. This does not even include the old SOTP feeling that is much greater than the 14 hp due to improved tone.
I am sure that the millions of dollars spent annually by all of the performance manufacturers on dynos across the country should tell you that it is a worth while practice.
Re: quote: In my opinion, unpopular as it is, save your money. We just had 30 some Corvettes at a Dyno day and non of the "breather" packages showed any real differences from stock set ups.
I am not sure what dyno's you had access to, or what the conditions were under which you tested, but we have spent thousands of dollars with different versions of our products on the dyno (and can show you the certified results) and with our worst run we pulled off almost 11 hp and adveraged 14 hp. In fact, to become a officially licensed GM SPO Product, (which we are) these tests had to be certified and then re-tested by GM. We passed with flying colors. Now this might fall under your "any real differences" range, but we feel that it is quite significant, considering the HP per $ ratio. This does not even include the old SOTP feeling that is much greater than the 14 hp due to improved tone.
I am sure that the millions of dollars spent annually by all of the performance manufacturers on dynos across the country should tell you that it is a worth while practice.
I guess we are going to have to agree to disagree, on the meaning of the word word "signifigant". But I agree with you about the "SOTP", people can easily be fooled into thinking a car is making more power because it has a louder sounding intake.
with our worst run we pulled off almost 11 hp and adveraged 14 hp
Show me the curve!! I keep hearing horsepower and torque numbers, but they are only the peak numbers. You could have a lower peak figure and a better performing (quicker) car if the area under the horsepower curve ends up being greater. Peak numbers look cool and make some people drool, but they don't tell you much about the overall performance potential of the car. A car needs to pull hard over a few thousand rpm's - if you don't know what the engine's doing over the bulk of the target range, you don't really know what the engine's doing relative to your performance goals. This is one of the reasons tire spin is such a poor indicator of performance - who cares if your ability to lose traction over a 500 rpm range is greater after a mod if you've bought yourself less power over the next 2000 rpm??
I'm not doubting any performance gains that have been claimed, I'm just hoping that the claims will start to be backed up with useful, thorough information, not just a single slice of data which could be misleading.