C5 Front Caliper in Rear
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 345
Likes: 5
From: Miami Florida
C5 Front Caliper in Rear
Does anyone have the documented procedure for mounting a front C5 caliper in the rear position?
It seems like the caliper will fit with a C6 Z51 rear rotor or a Baer plus sized rear rotor.
Before anyone asks or suggests, I did a search and all the links to the procedure were dead.
For anyone who has already done this, is the use of a brake proportioning valve necessary or will the electronic control system auto adjust.
Thanks in advance for the info.
It seems like the caliper will fit with a C6 Z51 rear rotor or a Baer plus sized rear rotor.
Before anyone asks or suggests, I did a search and all the links to the procedure were dead.
For anyone who has already done this, is the use of a brake proportioning valve necessary or will the electronic control system auto adjust.
Thanks in advance for the info.
Last edited by Caesar68; Aug 12, 2011 at 11:06 AM. Reason: added pictures
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
It sure looks better! However, there are engineering reasons why the rears are smaller...could really upset the hard braking results.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
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From: Oak Hill Virginia
When people install big brake kits they significantly increase the stopping power of the front AND rear brakes. Not sure if it's a good idea to do it this way.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 345
Likes: 5
From: Miami Florida
I'm wondering about this too... Would increasing the stopping power of the rears without doing anything to the fronts have a negative impact? Seems like it might...
When people install big brake kits they significantly increase the stopping power of the front AND rear brakes. Not sure if it's a good idea to do it this way.
When people install big brake kits they significantly increase the stopping power of the front AND rear brakes. Not sure if it's a good idea to do it this way.
This is why a brake proportioning valve may be necessary.
To do this would be cheaper than a big brake kit and you would achieve a similar look.
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 4,549
Likes: 30
From: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
It can be done but several changes are required for the swap to function.
1) Correctly sized caliper bracket required to move caliper farther out from hub based on your rotor size selection.
2) The dual piston front caliper has a much larger piston volume than the single piston rear. To keep everything even close to properly functioning, you will need a new bias spring and most likely a proportioning valve. Electronics WILL NOT adjust for this differential.
Too much rear bias and they will lock up every time a hard stop is tried.
3) Due to fluid flow volume changes your ABS will be "iffy" at best. Flow volumes are engineered into the system based on stock caliper sizing.
If you are going for car show "bling" with this setup and do not drive the car agressively or often, you will probably be fine. If you are going for track performance - forget it. The required proportioning to keep the rears from locking up will negate any benefit potentially offered by the bigger caliper and rotor. You will be much better off spending the $ on a properly designed and performing front and rear system from Stoptek, Wilwood or other vendor.
1) Correctly sized caliper bracket required to move caliper farther out from hub based on your rotor size selection.
2) The dual piston front caliper has a much larger piston volume than the single piston rear. To keep everything even close to properly functioning, you will need a new bias spring and most likely a proportioning valve. Electronics WILL NOT adjust for this differential.
Too much rear bias and they will lock up every time a hard stop is tried.
3) Due to fluid flow volume changes your ABS will be "iffy" at best. Flow volumes are engineered into the system based on stock caliper sizing.
If you are going for car show "bling" with this setup and do not drive the car agressively or often, you will probably be fine. If you are going for track performance - forget it. The required proportioning to keep the rears from locking up will negate any benefit potentially offered by the bigger caliper and rotor. You will be much better off spending the $ on a properly designed and performing front and rear system from Stoptek, Wilwood or other vendor.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 345
Likes: 5
From: Miami Florida
From HiVoltge who did this mod in 2009.
It sounds like he did not have any problems with this mod.
I've been watching this thread and am reluctant to join in but here it goes for the benefit of those interested in doing this mod...
I have C5 front calipers with C6 Z51 rear rotors on my car... I retain the factory parking brake, there is no brake bias issue, the ABS does not kick in under heavy braking as some suggest, and the car stops on a dime!!! I did not perform the install so I cant comment on the technical side of what exactly needs to be done inorder to fit the calipers. I posted pics of the finished product this past summer for those of you that may want to see them....It is a very cost effective way to improve your braking without spending huge coin on the aftermarket brands...(which you probably don't need unless you're tracking the car). Also,I did add SS lines all around and went with drilled an slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads...Esthetically, I love the look as it fills in the huge gap present with the OE rear brakes, especially when you have 19" rims...
I have C5 front calipers with C6 Z51 rear rotors on my car... I retain the factory parking brake, there is no brake bias issue, the ABS does not kick in under heavy braking as some suggest, and the car stops on a dime!!! I did not perform the install so I cant comment on the technical side of what exactly needs to be done inorder to fit the calipers. I posted pics of the finished product this past summer for those of you that may want to see them....It is a very cost effective way to improve your braking without spending huge coin on the aftermarket brands...(which you probably don't need unless you're tracking the car). Also,I did add SS lines all around and went with drilled an slotted rotors with Hawk ceramic pads...Esthetically, I love the look as it fills in the huge gap present with the OE rear brakes, especially when you have 19" rims...
It sounds like he did not have any problems with this mod.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
hmmm...very interesting...it is possible to over analyze things....I agree as long as the car is for street only it just might not be an issue....except when driving on icy roads!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 5
From: Toronto Ontario
St. Jude Donor '08
Last edited by HiVoltge; Aug 14, 2011 at 07:54 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 2
From: Austin Texas
The guy I know who did this road races in NASA, and is one of the faster guys in the TTU class in this region. He runs full aero, of course, which most cars do not. His base car is a C5, though it runs an LS7 now rather than the original motor.
His comments were that he lost the parking brake (which on a race car, we don't use anyhow) because front rotors don't have a place for it and that while the ABS still works, it's a bit different than it was before. He used the RF caliper on the LR and vice versa. He did not indicate that he changed the proportioning on the car. It's an interesting mod, and should I think it would fit within the rules for my class, I might give it a try.
His comments were that he lost the parking brake (which on a race car, we don't use anyhow) because front rotors don't have a place for it and that while the ABS still works, it's a bit different than it was before. He used the RF caliper on the LR and vice versa. He did not indicate that he changed the proportioning on the car. It's an interesting mod, and should I think it would fit within the rules for my class, I might give it a try.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,888
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From: Frederick, Maryland
Does your handbrake still work?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,606
Likes: 355
From: Rochester New York
Read this....
Front and rear spindles are identical at opposite corners... Meaning RF=LR and LF=RR.
One could very easily install front brakes on the rear with just brackets, rotors and calipers.
Using front rotors on the back will not allow the E-Brake to work.
Not sure how to get around the proportioning, hopefully others can chime in.
Front and rear spindles are identical at opposite corners... Meaning RF=LR and LF=RR.
One could very easily install front brakes on the rear with just brackets, rotors and calipers.
Using front rotors on the back will not allow the E-Brake to work.
Not sure how to get around the proportioning, hopefully others can chime in.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,888
Likes: 2
From: Frederick, Maryland
Read this....
Front and rear spindles are identical at opposite corners... Meaning RF=LR and LF=RR.
One could very easily install front brakes on the rear with just brackets, rotors and calipers.
Using front rotors on the back will not allow the E-Brake to work.
Not sure how to get around the proportioning, hopefully others can chime in.
Front and rear spindles are identical at opposite corners... Meaning RF=LR and LF=RR.
One could very easily install front brakes on the rear with just brackets, rotors and calipers.
Using front rotors on the back will not allow the E-Brake to work.
Not sure how to get around the proportioning, hopefully others can chime in.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 5
From: Toronto Ontario
St. Jude Donor '08
Last edited by HiVoltge; Aug 15, 2011 at 02:13 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,888
Likes: 2
From: Frederick, Maryland
