I have a 1999 c5 leaking clutch fluid. I'm looking for suggestions. I have been quated a price of 1800 to 1900 from Corvettes of Dallas to have the clutch replaced with Z06 2004 clutch. That includes: master/slave, flywheel, pressure plate, disc, and pilot bearing. They suggested that all of it be replaced now with the z06 since the work involves alot such as detaching the rear. The labor be paid once with all new clutch parts since I plan on keeping the car for a long time. Plus, the 2004 z06 is not a closed system and will fit the C5.

The dealership said that they can possibly install:
1. OEM 12/12 warranty parts & labor. $700.00
2. a Trans-star 12/12 parts ONLY. $500.00
3. NAPA 12/12 parts ONLY. $500.00

Here are my options:

1. Dealership do the work. And find the problem and replace with OEM..and possibly some other brand.

2. go with Corvettes of Dallas

Any suggestions or thoughts from someone in the forum who had a leaky or stick clutch?

What brand do you suggest?

Thanks...

 

"The labor be paid once with all new clutch parts since I plan on keeping the car for a long time. Plus, the 2004 z06 is not a closed system and will fit the C5. "

What does this mean?

 

Gene Culley has the LS7 clutch kit that will work on a C-5 for a very reasonable price and yes, it does fit. I had it put into my '99.

 

Are you planning on modding or keeping the car stock?

 

My $0.02

How many miles are on your car?

Did your shop locate the leak? If it's leaking from the master cylinder there's no reason to do a clutch swap (unless your clutch is worn out) because the master cylinder can be replaced without removing the drivetrain. If it's leaking from the slave cylinder then you may as well swap the clutch because the entire drivetrain has to come out to get to that...

What are you power goals for the future (for the life of the clutch you're going to be putting in)? If you're planning on staying near stock power levels and not doing anything other than bolt-on mods you'll be fine with an OEM clutch.

If I were you I would go with the LS6 (C5 Z06) clutch over an LS7 (C6 Z06). The LS7 is a nice piece; but the LS7 flywheel is HEAVY. Adding unnecessary rotational mass to your car is never a good idea. The LS6 clutch is a tried and true clutch that has seen a ton of track use and retains stock driveability.

The new slave cylinder is a good idea and you absolutely must replace the pilot bearing. Whomever does your clutch install should also install a tick remote clutch bleeder line so that you can bleed your clutch fluid the proper way (via the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder) without having to drop the drivetrain to do it (a huge amount of work).

Unless your master cylinder is leaking there is no need to replace it while you do the clutch swap as the master cylinder can be removed and replaced from under the hood and does not require the drivetrain to be out of the car.

Make sure you have the shop inspect your torque tube bushings while it's out of the car. They are relatively cheap and the WILL fail eventually so replacing them while you have everything open is a good idea so you don't end up paying for the labor involved in getting to them again later.

As far as which shop to go with; swapping the clutch on a C5 is a huge amount of labor but it's not rocket science. I did it on jackstands on mine... Any competent shop with experience working on corvettes will do just fine. Go with whichever shop you feel more comfortable with.

GL

EDIT:

Also; not sure what mods your planning on doing in the future; but if you don't do your own work and have any of the following mods on your list of things to do it makes sense to do them at the same time so you don't pay huge labor again later:

Differential Upgrade (3.73s, 3.90s or 4.10s)
Stiffer Tunnel Plate
Tunnel Insulation
Long Tube Headers
Cat-Back Exhaust

 

This was a statement from the corvette shop basically saying that if I am having the clutch replaced that I should pay for the labor once and now...plus use the z06 clutch as a replacement. The shop was saying that if I pay for the labor now and don't replace all parts that I will probably end up paying for the labor a 2nd time in the near future. There was something said about the C5 being a closed system or having more problems than the z06. I did some research. I have video and pictures of the work involved. The labor is about 8 hours of work. But who knows, it could just be a Master C. problem.

Hopefully, that explains my comment.

I read cdkcorvette7 post. I have like 130K miles.

Thank You! cdkcorvette7. It seems to address my post. Lots of useful information. I'm just still thinking about who to use. The dealership or another shop. I don't know if it is just a leak or not. I have a hard time trusting dealership. Liers. And times are hard and I believe they will lie and not tell me the truth. I'm still thinking.

 

[QUOTE=mcbevwiz;1578432869]This was a statement from the corvette shop basically saying that if I am having the clutch replaced that I should pay for the labor once and now...plus use the z06 clutch as a replacement. The shop was saying that if I pay for the labor now and don't replace all parts that I will probably end up paying for the labor a 2nd time in the near future. There was something said about the C5 being a closed system or having more problems than the z06. I did some research. I have video and pictures of the work involved. The labor is about 8 hours of work. But who knows, it could just be a Master C. problem.

Hopefully, that explains my comment.

QUOTE]

The systems in the standard Vette and Z06 are essential the same design-Master, slave, throwout, clutch, pressure plate. The Z06 has a beefier clutch but not much else. And YES, do it all NOW-AND add a remote bleeder to your list.

 

Only downside of the ls7 is that at low-mid rpms, the car may feel a little bit less jumpy. It is 10 lbs heavier than stock.

 

While you got all that out, might as well get some heat insulation up in there to keep console cooler, and might as well do shifter swap if you are ever thinking of doing it, as console has to come out. I just had mine done last week, spec 3+ and install was a little under $1,300 at local respectable shop.

 

Sounds like you need a slave cylinder. Anything else is optional. If you are paying someone else to do the work and you have 130K miles on it a clutch kit would be a good bet. They are right when they say everything must come out so smart money would replace all the consumable parts involved. It will make the car more valuable.

Unless you are raising the HP significantly, stock or GM upgrade parts will make the installation smoother (cheaper and quicker) and give you an easier ride. All the crazy clutch upgrades seem to come with their own built in problems that are only worth dealing with if you need their holding power. After all, the original lasted 130k and over 10 years and is only being replaced due to a slave cylinder problem. Get a remote slave bleeder installed at the same time. You will use this every few months.

When it is all over you won't believe how smooth the clutch becomes. A slave goes bad slowly and you don't notice how notchy the pedal is becoming until you replace it.

 

Does this price include the KY jelly?

 

See my Post.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-to-get.html

also the Corvettes of Dallas seems like the right price, parts including slave and master are around 900 dollars, clutch disk, pressure plate, bearing, slave, master, flywheel, clutch fluid, trans fluid, etc tax. Labor is 8 to 10 hours.. This is LS7 balanced matched clutch, flywheel pressure plate, with zo6 slave and master. Slave includes the throwout bearing.

 

Gene Culley has the LS7 clutch setup, disk, pressure plate and flywheel for like $450 last I looked

 

I paid 1700 to the Vette Doctors here in Fl to install my monster stage 2 clutch, master, reseal the leaky differential and install my new headers/x pipe. I thought it was rather reasonable.

 

We can install a Level 1 Monster Premium package with 18lb billet lightweight flywheel, new bolts and bleeder for $1600 out the door with tax. Feel free to contact me with any questions or to schedule an appointment.

 

I know the difference between a LS7 and Z06. The LS7 is a little heavier. What is a Level 1 Monster? and What makes it better than a z06?

Anyone else can make chime in with their opinion.

 

I just got my LS7clutch set up from Gene Culley two weeks ago.. with the slave and master and pilot bearing it came to 887 dollars delivered... the 450 price does not include tax or shipping or a slave and master and pilot bearing...
that's the price for the clutch disk, pressure plate, and flywheel only. If you are dropping the cradle, now is the time to change the fluids... you also need 2 qts of clutch fluid, and I would not get a remote bleeder...sorry vendors, all the ones that have failed or leaked by members, no one said the bleeder was replaced for free, and the vendor paid to drop the drive train to put in a new one in to replace the leaking one. Using the ranger method, you can bleed the clutch system...

 

Ok so I drive my new engine carefully during break in - also new McCleod twin disc. With around 600 miles on it - I take a trip - about another 500 miles added. Purpose of the trip is to get tuned by one of the best tuners around - Doug Ring - (ECS) who happened to be in New Lenox Illinois for the weekend doing tunes at Nicks shop!

Long story short - among other glitches - my clutch stopped working!!


Nick - is handling the clutch swap this week at his shop - a new Mantic twin disc will be installed - and the car driven back home 500 miles very gently - (Doug was not able to finish the tune because of the clutch issue)

Billy - one of the better tech people at McCleod suggested that the clutch hydraulic bearing may not have been set properly and the "pressure plate fingers" may have "pushed into the bearing" so it will not release or allow proper pressure to be applied - therefore slipping mostly. That is what it seems to exhibit currently - just slipping - not holding any torque at all when in gear. We had to push the car to move it !! The issue described above is not readily apparent initially - but happens later - I guess after you get some miles and usage on it - because it was working ok no problems before this incident. It may also be using the GM hydraulic slave that contributed to the issue - but not sure at this point.

The McCleod folks do feel pretty sure that with a replacement hydraulic bearing - everything will work as designed again - that the clutch is still good!!

Nick is checking it out during "take out" and snapping some pictures.

Just thought I would throw this out - for those folks getting ready to do clutch installs - make sure you or your shop takes the necessary time and measurements before it gets slammed in and you go roaring off!!

http://www.mcleodracing.com/info/?id=5260

 

Who is paying for the labor to have the slave put in again?.. the slave is the throwout bearing.. it is part of the slave cylinder... don't see how the OEM slave would have an impact on the pressure plate, unless the pressure plate required a proprietary slave cylinder... just curious. also if the clutch failed for any reason, I would replace everything.. no one knows what stress the cluch disk or presssure plate took in this failure...No one is paying you for your down time... I assume... A clutch should go in easily, and give you many years of service, the first time its installed.. when someone starts blaming someone else ( could be the OEM bearing ).. you as the consumer, ultimately get the shaft...

 

With a lighweight 18lb flywheel it'll weigh in at ~42lbs total. LS7 is ~57, LS6 ~52lbs. The Level 1 is a 12" clutch like the LS7, but uses a better coefficient carbon/organic material for the disc along with a HD pressure plate with diaphragm springs that can handle heat better as well as providing more clamping force equating to being able to hold more power.