Crank Bolt - OEM or ARP?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
I've got a Powerbond PB1117SS damper on the way and plan to pin it and use the OEM TTY bolt. The bolt comes with a H+C gasket set I bought so I might as well use that instead of spending extra for a re-useble bolt I'll hopefully never re-use!
I will be following Bill Curlee's advice to heat the balancer up before putting it on, hopefully making life a little easier.
I will be following Bill Curlee's advice to heat the balancer up before putting it on, hopefully making life a little easier.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,464
Likes: 2
From: Cedarburg, WI
Would recommend to anyone doing the job - cheap insurance and simple
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
Using a Snap-on Tech torque wrench, which has the angle meter built into it, also gives the value of torque used to reach the desired angle. In every instance of using a stock bolt and doing the final pass of 140 deg, the torque value was 230-250 lbft of torque.
I personally wouldnt use an impact on the bolt. Impact is hard on the threads and not worth possibly killing a crank over.
I personally wouldnt use an impact on the bolt. Impact is hard on the threads and not worth possibly killing a crank over.
240ft/lb stretches the bolt between .006-.010" depending on the thread's friction factor. 140 deg of rotation after the balancer has seated stretches the bolt nearly .029".
Last edited by ipuig; Aug 26, 2011 at 08:02 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
Also, you mention locking the flywheel as the only probable method of achieving the necessary torque. I wouldn't want to put that kind of torque through the crankshaft into the flywheel with the crank bearings dry (for fear of scoring the bearings). Is there another way to fix the damper without transferring all that torque through the crank?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,472
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
I am very curious about the final torque value for seating the oem bolt to 140 degrees. There are lots of folks who hold the balancer still by fixing the outer pulley section of the balancer with a strap wrench or belt of some sort. If the proper fastening procedure applies up to 500 ft/lbs to the damper I would think there is a good chance of damaging the rubber/steel hub to pulley interface of the damper...
Also, you mention locking the flywheel as the only probable method of achieving the necessary torque. I wouldn't want to put that kind of torque through the crankshaft into the flywheel with the crank bearings dry (for fear of scoring the bearings). Is there another way to fix the damper without transferring all that torque through the crank?
Also, you mention locking the flywheel as the only probable method of achieving the necessary torque. I wouldn't want to put that kind of torque through the crankshaft into the flywheel with the crank bearings dry (for fear of scoring the bearings). Is there another way to fix the damper without transferring all that torque through the crank?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
Likes: 16
From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
My personal choice is to lock the flywheel using the starter ring gear. I believe this is the procedure in the service manual. It may not be an issue to hold the damper by the outer ring with some type of strap wrench, but I've always worried about doing this way.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
I'm failing to see the correlation, between the main bearings, and torquing the balancer. The torque is applied about the crank's axis of rotation, so no side loading is involved. If rotating the crank is what you are concerned about, how does one torque the flywheel or pressure plate, without rotating the crank?
Maybe I'm making a big deal about nothing, but it still seems wrong to do that.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,472
Likes: 1,171
From: Dyer, IN
It's not the torque itself damaging the bearings or crankshaft that I'm worried about, it's the side loading that IS involved when I'm standing on the end of a two foot breaker bar attempting to reach the specified bolt angle spec. Sure, that's a static linear force of less than 200lbs (dynamically higher), but it's still a force exerted mainly on the front crank bearing with no oil being pumped through it. Any torque deflection of the crankshaft front to rear while applying the side load will result in a very small area of the bearing being worn back and forth repeatedly as I struggle to apply 500 ft-lbs to the crank bolt.
Maybe I'm making a big deal about nothing, but it still seems wrong to do that.
Maybe I'm making a big deal about nothing, but it still seems wrong to do that.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
I am very curious about the final torque value for seating the oem bolt to 140 degrees. There are lots of folks who hold the balancer still by fixing the outer pulley section of the balancer with a strap wrench or belt of some sort. If the proper fastening procedure applies up to 500 ft/lbs to the damper I would think there is a good chance of damaging the rubber/steel hub to pulley interface of the damper...
Also, you mention locking the flywheel as the only probable method of achieving the necessary torque. I wouldn't want to put that kind of torque through the crankshaft into the flywheel with the crank bearings dry (for fear of scoring the bearings). Is there another way to fix the damper without transferring all that torque through the crank?
Also, you mention locking the flywheel as the only probable method of achieving the necessary torque. I wouldn't want to put that kind of torque through the crankshaft into the flywheel with the crank bearings dry (for fear of scoring the bearings). Is there another way to fix the damper without transferring all that torque through the crank?
Last edited by ipuig; Aug 27, 2011 at 06:03 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
BTW, I hope you're wrong about the 500 ft-lbs required... I was looking at a 1/2" drive breaker bar yesterday and it cautioned about applying more than 376 ft-lbs of torque.
