You can check it by putting a oil gauge into the driver side head that will tell you. Robert
Oil Pump/No Pressure
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 508
Likes: 3
From: Tallahassee, FL
Oil Pump/No Pressure
Ok, that sickening feeling. 0 PSI.
Stopped in to my local pub for a beer. Drive there was beautiful, 42 psi cold idle, settled to 35 hot idle, 45-51ish under moderate acceleration. After about 1/2 hr-45 mins get in the car, starts right up but I get the chime and CEL. DIC says low oil pressure. Shut down immediately, check oil level (good) and under car for any leaks (none). Turn key to access. and watch gauges all sweep, so they're OK.
Start car again, Oil Press gauge doesn't budge off 0, car sounds great but a little tapping starts and begins to get louder. $h!t!!! Call a flatbed and have it towed to a local Vette shop. I won't be doing this repair myself as my garage is full of stuff that can't go anywhere for a while.
So my question is, which pump should I use? The original pump was replace about 20k mi ago by the P.O. when he did the cam/header/CAI/under drive pulleys and double roller TC. I don't feel I can trust OEM, but HP or HV pump is unnecessary since I won't be tracking the car.
What does experience tell you?
Stopped in to my local pub for a beer. Drive there was beautiful, 42 psi cold idle, settled to 35 hot idle, 45-51ish under moderate acceleration. After about 1/2 hr-45 mins get in the car, starts right up but I get the chime and CEL. DIC says low oil pressure. Shut down immediately, check oil level (good) and under car for any leaks (none). Turn key to access. and watch gauges all sweep, so they're OK.
Start car again, Oil Press gauge doesn't budge off 0, car sounds great but a little tapping starts and begins to get louder. $h!t!!! Call a flatbed and have it towed to a local Vette shop. I won't be doing this repair myself as my garage is full of stuff that can't go anywhere for a while.
So my question is, which pump should I use? The original pump was replace about 20k mi ago by the P.O. when he did the cam/header/CAI/under drive pulleys and double roller TC. I don't feel I can trust OEM, but HP or HV pump is unnecessary since I won't be tracking the car.
What does experience tell you?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
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From: cookeville tennessee
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18,643
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From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
I would check the sensor first and eliminate that as the problem. I have a cammed car too and every time I start it she has a racket until the oil flows.....even get the big zero for a few seconds every once in a while but not lately.
Stock pump is all you really need,,,mine has 80K plus at cam swap and is still going strong.
My $00.02
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,375
Likes: 3
From: East Tn.
Sensors when they go bad in most cases shows the high end not zero
Ground your sensor wire and it will check your gauge
OEM pump should be fine
Sorry for your trouble, hope you don't have any engine damage
Ground your sensor wire and it will check your gauge
OEM pump should be fine
Sorry for your trouble, hope you don't have any engine damage
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 508
Likes: 3
From: Tallahassee, FL
Thanks for all the input. I'm sure it's not the sensor. As BobbyG123 stated, when they go, it's usually pegged to the high end. The valve train racket is a dead giveaway. It's not the usual sewing machine clatter. It's 16 BMF gerbils with ball peen hammers attacking the rockers. 
Anyway, there shouldn't be any damage as I shut it down as soon as the DIC said Low Press, and only restarted after verifying oil level was good, Shut it down as soon as the clatter started, so pretty confident there.
My question about the OEM pump was due to the fact that this one was put in 20K ago with the cam. Not a lot of miles.
Anyway, there shouldn't be any damage as I shut it down as soon as the DIC said Low Press, and only restarted after verifying oil level was good, Shut it down as soon as the clatter started, so pretty confident there.
My question about the OEM pump was due to the fact that this one was put in 20K ago with the cam. Not a lot of miles.
Tech Contributor
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From: Dyer, IN
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
Oil pump
I used a Melling stock pump in mine. There is somewhere on the net that shows how or what they call oil pump porting, I disassembled mine and cleaned up those areas. I also added 1 thin washer to the bypass spring. When I reassembled the motor it has 45-50 PSI running down the road and ~30-35 PSI hot idling, running 5w-30 Royal Purple synthetic oil. I wonder why that pump failed? Does the bypass stick open on these pumps or is there another problem area of these pump? Maybe the pickup came off. Please post findings when you replace it. I'm interested.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 508
Likes: 3
From: Tallahassee, FL
Some of the reading I'm doing states that if the pick up tube O-Ring isn't installed properly, or the incorrect one (thinner cross section) is used, that will fail. More than likely the relief valve is stuck. Crud, gunk or what ever. I've been religious about changing oil, Mobil 1 5w-30. I even had a can of Seafoam to add to the crank case before the next change in about 500 miles.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 984
Likes: 23
From: Florence SC
If a synthetic oil has been used throughout the engines life I doubt there is any crud or gunk in the oil system. I've never seen a dirty engine (internally) that ran only synthetic oil. Has anybody else?
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,843
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From: Howell Michigan
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Cause of Stuck Pressure Relief Valve
Warning, the following should not be taken as known condition even though these are plausible causes of a stuck pressure relief valve. It is conjecture, with no proof or facts. Feel free to use for conversation points of interest as to why a stuck relief valve may happen.
Any others that should be added to the list?
- Small debris caught between piston and bore of the relief valve. (This could be from wear of external or internal components finding their way into the pump.)
- Scoring between the piston to bore. (Improper original clearance between piston and bore)
- Pressure relief spring failure (not enough tension on the piston.)
- Pump housing distortion. (Improper torque of pump mount bolts to block or over-heating of pump.)
Any others that should be added to the list?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,835
Likes: 5
From: Avon Park FLORIDA
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I've seen and replaced several improper Orings in the pickup tube to pump,
one had 26,000 miles since a Chevy dealer had replaced a defective Cam and installed the wrong Oring, the owner had complained since the work of low oil pressure, when I took the engine apart for a cam install I found the cam bearings worn to the copper. I pulled the engine and inspected all rod and mains and found them all badly worn.
No one is perfect, but you have to pay close attention when working on anything that you're not familiar with.
one had 26,000 miles since a Chevy dealer had replaced a defective Cam and installed the wrong Oring, the owner had complained since the work of low oil pressure, when I took the engine apart for a cam install I found the cam bearings worn to the copper. I pulled the engine and inspected all rod and mains and found them all badly worn.
No one is perfect, but you have to pay close attention when working on anything that you're not familiar with.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 508
Likes: 3
From: Tallahassee, FL
Just got off the phone with the shop. Piece of aluminum debris blocking the valve. Gouge in the pump housing looks like the gear contacted the housing and shaved a little off. Oil is clean, no debris in the filter. Haven't seen it myself yet, I'll go check it out tomorrow.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
I had the very same event a while back. I found the oil pick up had a restriction in the oil pan. Needle bearings piled up at the pickup? Yup! One of the lifters lost the needle bearings, taking the Cam with it. Not a real expensive repair ... could have been alot worse. Got lucky.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I had the very same event a while back. I found the oil pick up had a restriction in the oil pan. Needle bearings piled up at the pickup? Yup! One of the lifters lost the needle bearings, taking the Cam with it. Not a real expensive repair ... could have been alot worse. Got lucky.