I'm trying to replace my oil pressure sender using the method described here. (I don't feel comfortable with this the method that requires removing the manifold, and would prefer not to cut the holes required of this one).

I'm not having much luck getting a socket wrench in there.



It looks like I have a hose not pictured in the tutorial video. Is there something I'm missing?


Off topic tangent: I've been lurking for a while, but this is my first post. Thank you all for making such an awesome community

 

What the famous producer of the video you mention failed to tell everyone, is that he removed the PCV line......that's why it appeared soo easy in the video. For the time it took you to find out you could not get a socket in there, and type up your question, you could have been half done by now.......pulling the manifold. It's really simple.

 

^ agreed. intake removal on the corvette is simple. no cowl to fight with like the f-bodies, more or less. 8 or 10 8mm bolts, 8 clips on the injector plugs, 1 (or 2) quick disconnect fuel line, 3 bolts on TB, a hose clamp for the air intake, and a few vacuum stuff. Probably an hour if it's the first time you're doing it, with the proper set of tools.

Also, is that PCV line? Or the AIR emissions stuff?

 

McBeer, Welcome to the forum! It really is one of the finer internet communities. I agree with the removal of the intake as the best choice. There are some vacuum line connections on the back of the intake. It is a great time to inspect them and replace any hoses that have gone hard.

The full removal of intake really isn't that hard and you already have shown your documenting skills. Take photos during the removal process and use if needed to complete the reinstall.

 

I just have one question: No one's mentioned it but does the fuel line need to be depressurized prior to disconnecting it? I am assuming it does. I am also assuming that you need a special tool to disconnect it?

 

I had to cut the hole and it still took forevr.pain in the ars.almost worth paying for it next time.gooood luck

 

You really don't HAVE to disconnect in fuel line on the later models. DO-have an INCH-POUND torque wrench for reinstallation of the intake and PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the torques-they are iin INCH-POUNDS.

 

I would agree with everyone else; removal of intake seems tough, but is really not that bad. I recently did this repair after my hopes of the universal joint also failed - video makes it look real easy doesn't it? I followed the well documented link below and with the needed tools did this in a couple of hours taking a lot of time to clean in spots not accessible otherwise. Also cleaned TB and intake; car runs better than ever. My car is not a DD, so I had the luxury of time. Depending on your skill level (I am a shade tree guy used to working on old SBCs) you should do fine. The worst part for me was the disconnection and re-connection of the small vacuum line behind the intake - beyond that pretty straight forward. Link below may help you decide - good luck

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvettef...ad.php?t=40599

 

It looks like the instructions here call for the removal of the PCV line anyhow, so I'm going to try removing that first and giving the universal joint socket wrench trick another go. If that doesn't work out again, I'll commit to going the whole nine yards and romving the manifold.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll let you all know how it goes.

 

Takes about 45 minutes to do with out removing the manifold completely..Ive done this four times now to friends cars.. just remove the throttle body, fuel rail covers.. remove the bolts that hold the manifold, tape up the two bolts under the cowl so the do not fall down and stop the forward movement of the manifold.. lift up pull forward about 4 inches and remove the sender... cut a small piece ( about 6 inches )of vaccum line to fit tightly over the 1/8th black plastic vacuum line to use as an extention so you can plug in that line to the back of the manifold.. remove and replace the sender.. and the manifold and throttle body and your done.,, 45 minutes start to finish..

 

Remove the manifold.

It's so easy a cave man can do it.

 

Always remove the intake manifold completely, don't just slide it forward. There is always dirt/sand that can fall into the intake ports of the cylinder heads.

You need to clean the heads & vacuum the debris before re-installing the manifold.

Russ Kemp

 

When Evil-Twin writes.... the C5 world should take it to the bank.

I have done this repair without his tips. I took me 1 hour with a coffee break.

 

Great Success! Thanks everybody



I ended up removing the PCV line and using the coat hanger trick. It went pretty well until I dropped the old sender into the nether regions of the engine compartment while removing it. That was a PITA to fish back out. Next time I would loop a peice of string around it before unscrewing it. I did that with the new sender I was putting in and it went much better.

Now to go buy some gas :p

 

I'm glad everything worked out fine for you!

Could you please explain how is the process of removing and installing the PCV line? Do you have some pictures or a link for that? ETZ's youtube video doesn't show that part.

 

Nicely done

 

I hope your next project isn't having to replace your fuel pump...

 

Sure thing.

In order to change the oil pressure sender using the method described in this video:



You'll need to first remove the PCV line


The view from the back of the manifold: (1) PCV line and (2) Oil pressure sender


On the passenger side: Remove the plastic engine cover. Then remove hose (1), unclip the line at (2) and (3), and disconnect the wire harness at (4)


Still on the passenger side, unscrew the nut/wire at (5) and unplug the hose at (6)


On the drivers side: Remove the plastic cover and then disconnect the PCV elbow at (7)


Once you've disconnected all that, you can just snake the line out from behind the manifold. I find it was helpful to have somebody else pull lightly fromt he passenger side as I helped the PCV elbow work its way though (and vice versa for reinstallation)

Construct a 'fancy' coat hanger tool to pull the clip off the already installed pressure sender. Mine looked like this and worked well.


I would try looping a piece of string around the old sender before unscrewing it. Having the string will likely make it stick in the socket and come out. If it falls out, you can easily retrieve it. (I didn't do this, dropped the sender behind the engine and spent a fair amount of time fishing it back out.) You can do the same thing on the new unit you install, but don't actually tie if off as there is no way to untie it once installed.


The new sender should be tightened to 15 foot pounds (20 N M)

 

Good thread!

 

Thanks so much. I think this is great information. A fairly complex task reduced to a relatively simple process!!!