Hi gang,

I need help! Every so often, my 2000 6 speed Vert decides not to start! Maybe once a week or so. I don't get it. the car has 67k miles on it and otherwise runs fine. No issues once its running. I had a new battery installed - Optima Red Top a month ago. The first time this issue occurred, I was getting a new X pipe installed at Meineke. The tech insisted it was the clutch pedal sensor going bad. So he put a paper clip in the connector and voila, the car started. The next day I bought a new clutch pedal sensor from Advance Auto and installed myself. A few weeks later I had starting issues again so I got the new battery installed. Since then, once a week it refuses to start. The very next day it starts right up. I had the alternator, starter, and battery tested and all are within spec. Its frustrating because the car has "juice" and all lights accessories work fine as normal even when it refuses to start. The symptoms are bizarre, there is no hesitation, no crank or anything. Just "dead" on I turn ignition to "On" with clutch in. So what Ive had to do is "pop the clutch" to get mobile when I am lucky enough to get a push. Its embarrassing! I love my car to pieces.

Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciate. I am not sure what to do. I would prefer not to take it to the dealer because I am certain they will crush me.

Has anyone else had this issue?

 

Read through this THREAD by the super Mr Bill Curlee.

 

The link that Eric posted may certainly be your issue; however, pull your codes first.

http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

 

Ive had that issue since having my clutch installed. (about 5 years)

If I drove the car more than once or twice a month, Id pull it apart to see what's causing it, but it hasnt left me stranged yet.

Everytime I say to myself, Im going to fix it today, the weather is beautiful outside and Id rather drive it.

Bill and his write up are squared away.

www.TampaTuning.com

Phil

 

I'm betting its the starter solenoid.... the position of the starter to the exhaust manifold, creates a heat distortion issue in the large washer like connector inside the solenoid... this distortion sometimes causes the washer like connector to not go completely forward to engage the power to the starter.. when you hit the ignition switch it throws the solenoid plunger forward,, when the solenoid connector becomes distorted it sometimes gets hung up... it you get stuck, you can take a hammer, and tap on the side of the solenoid and it will start.,.. the fix is replacing the solenoid, but in most cases, the solenoid is hard to find by itself, and you have to buy the whole unit ( starter and solenoid )
Bill aka ET

 

HI gang!

First off thanks for your assistance. I am a novice when it comes to this and not much of a DIY so your guidance is much appreciated. I pulled the codes and this is what I got (oh boy....):

10- PCM P1637H, P1431 H C, P0174H
28- TCS C1286H, C1287H
AO- LDCM B2282H, B2284H, B222278H, U1064H
A1- RDCM B2283H, B2285H, B2265H, U1064H
BO- RFA U1096H, U1064H, U1016H

These are all the codes. I bought the car in February and at the time the fuel guage was not working properly. I had the dealer change on of the sending units but now still doesnt read correct. Anytime there is more than 1/2 a tank in there in reads empty. Then once its at 1/2 or below it reads correcty. I am not sure if this has anything to do with the no-start symptom. I just tried turning it on and no dice. It wont start. I am lost. Any thoughts?

 

You have some of the forum's best helping you out in this thread. I'm surprised you're still getting the P1431 code after having the dealer replace the sensor. Do you know if the dealer replaced the one in the right or left tank? Code 1431 is for the right fuel level sensor and a replacement may not be necessary. A lot of members clear this issue up with a few techron fuel treatments. You might want to clear all of those codes (since most of them are history codes) then drive the car a bit to see which ones come back.

When my car was behaving exactly like yours it turned out that the starter solenoid had gone out (as ET mentioned above). I took a long screwdriver and a hammer and tap on the starter solenoid and it started right up. I replaced the starter with a unit from advance auto parts. They are available from many auto parts stores at a pretty reasonable cost.

GL

 

Hi GL!

Man I cant tell you how much it warms my heart to be a part of this forum. THANK YOU. ALL of you.

I was able to drive the car yesterday for the first time in a week and had the belts changed at the same Meineke that welded my X-Pipe a few months back. Today no dice. It will not start.

Where is the starter located so I can try ET's suggestion?

 

Hi Bill,

I am definitely wanting to try your suggestion as that makes the most sense to me. 3 quick questions:

1) Where is the starter in the 2000 Corvette? Ive been looking under the hood for the past 25 minutes and cannot seem to find it.

2) Advance Auto tested the battery/alternator/starter 2 weeks ago when I was having this issue. They said everything was fine. If in fact the solenoid is bad, would that have flagged as a bad starter? They tested all 3 when the car was operating fine.

3) I might be reaching.... But would the welding of the X-pipe (Done about 3 months ago at Meineke) have created any of this? I only ask because that was the first time I ever had this issue come up and since then it consistently happens. Not looking to blame anyone... just want some insight.

It really sucks going out because every time I park my car I park on a hill hoping that I can get momentum to pop the clutch if it doesn't fire.

If anyone else can chime in as well please do not hesitate.

Cheers,
Zakk

 

GL = good luck My name's Chris.

The starter is near the exhaust manifold on the passenger side. Use a flashlight and you should be able to see it... If you have to replace it you'll want to do it from underneath.

Do you have long tube headers installed?

Here's a picture of the location of the starter:

 

My knowledge of these cars is nothing compared to ET's, so I won't speak for him. But here's my $0.02

1) Where is the starter in the 2000 Corvette? Ive been looking under the hood for the past 25 minutes and cannot seem to find it.

See above post

2) Advance Auto tested the battery/alternator/starter 2 weeks ago when I was having this issue. They said everything was fine. If in fact the solenoid is bad, would that have flagged as a bad starter? They tested all 3 when the car was operating fine.

How did they test the starter? If it's a failing solenoid sometimes it'll work properly and sometimes it won't. They might have caught it on a good day. Also, I believe the starter itself will test good from a voltage standpoint. It's the starter SOLENOID that usually fails.

3) I might be reaching.... But would the welding of the X-pipe (Done about 3 months ago at Meineke) have created any of this? I only ask because that was the first time I ever had this issue come up and since then it consistently happens. Not looking to blame anyone... just want some insight.

Probably not... I guess the heat could possibly have damaged it but I doubt if you'd be able to prove it...



I see you're in Silver Spring; that's very close to me. Shoot me a PM if you get stuck on this...

 

I feel for your NO START issue.

As ET explained,, there are a LOT of solenoid issues out there and that was my exact issue. I was planning on doing a HEADS/CAM/FAST 90 intake manifold mod several months down the road and didn’t want to drop the headers for just a starter removal.

SO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I cut a 30" piece of rebar, covered it with heat shrink. Whenever I would have a case of the NO STARTS, I would snake that rebar down between the header pipes and give the starter a THUMP or two.

She started each time after the thump. When I did the Engine Mods, I went to the local ALTERNATOR/STARTER Repair Shop and purchased a NEW solenoid and installed it. NO START Problem SOLVED!

BC

 

OK! I had a neighbor whose a "weekend warrior" help me find the starter. We found it as Chris described. Tap'd on it with a small socket. But we couldn't see it, just feel it since we couldn't jack the car up. Once we tap'd on it there was a small spark from the socket touching the power lead. The car started right up after that. Finding the starter is nearly impossible! So I am going to parts store to see if I can pick a new solenoid or starter up and get this problem solved once and for all. I drove the car for 2 miles and restarted it and cleared the codes. Drove it again. No codes.

 

Yup! I definitely just removed the battery to check the drain on passenger side per Bill Curlee's thread. I noticed a massive leak on driver foot-well after Irene. I plan on getting the interior out and doing things the right way this weekend.

 

You might consider wrapping the starter in heat-wrap while it's out so you don't have this issue again:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-problem.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1569487389-post13.html

 

I would do this as quickly as possible... The longer it stays wet the greater the risk of moisture damaging your BCM (HUGE $$$$)

 

Yikes! I am really trying to avoid that. Funny thing is last week the passenger side was bone dry. I guess the humidity has traveled over. Any good threads on how to remove the interior?

Thanks Chris.

 

Ok, I'm going to take a step back here, as a lot of info is getting thrown at you.

First of all, if your passenger floorboard/fusebox,BCM are dry, there is no need to start tearing out the interior. A leak on the drivers side, is not going to affect the BCM on the passenger side. You would have to have a sauna installed in your vette, for the humidity to travel/propagate, and other systems would fail if it was that bad. Again, confirm the passenger side is dry, and has no evidence of getting wet.

Second, based on the codes you provided:

10- PCM P1637H, P1431 H C, P0174H
28- TCS C1286H, C1287H
AO- LDCM B2282H, B2284H, B2278H, U1064H
A1- RDCM B2283H, B2285H, B2265H, U1064H
BO- RFA U1096H, U1064H, U1016H

Items in red are straight off the battery(hot at all times), in other words, not involved with the ignition switch.

I would confirm that your battery cables are corrosion free, and tight. Take a reading from the battery with a meter. Having the battery tested could not hurt. Other communication codes listed can be precipitated by a bad battery/connections,etc. I'm not saying your starter/solenoid can't be bad, but there are other things to keep in mind here.

 

Ooops... You said driver's side... I was thinking passenger side as you stated the leak was near the battery compartment which is located on the passenger side of the car...

Also, Lucky has probably forgotten more things about this car than I'll ever know so wherever he and I conflict go with him...

 

Thanks Lucky for your help too!

I just had a new starter put in that I got from Advance Auto Parts... The guys at Meineke charged me $100 and the car started right up. Unfortunately, when they were bolting the exhaust back up one of the bolts cracked so they are taking care of that tomorrow morning. I watched the whole procedure! I will update this thread over the next week and month to keep everyone posted on my progress!

Thanks again to all of you. Sincerely.

-Zakk