Decided to join the C5 club so I traded my mint C4 vert in for a 99 vert last month (Automatic). Went out last week and car was dead not even a click. I did not even notice if the lights were on the dash. Tried to jump and would still not even turn or click. Charged battery re-installed and fired right up, drove for 1 day no problem. Came out of a store and car cranked fine just hard time firing up - had to pump pedal and hold to floor finally started and drove normal. Next day drove to work no issues, came out of work and same starting issue, had to crank car 5 - 6 time before start. was driving along at 50mpgh and car just shut down, gauges just dumped to the left and no engine. threw it in neutral and it started right up and drove home no issues. Pulled codes - lot of 1016 loss of PCM communication on all modules, these could have been old codes. Cleared all codes and was afraid to drive to work Thursday. Got in Thursday night and test started right up 2x. Friday morning, hard start and cut out on way down the driveway - checked codes only 2 this time IPC 0516 - Speedo circuit malfunction and IPC 1016 along with a RFA 1016?
I checked the battery terminals, they are tight and I cannot see any loose wires or connectors. I am thinking now that the original issue was probably not a dead batteyr but this same issue.

I notice that when I put the key in, the instrument panel lights will flicker rapidly and I will get the no start, hard start condition. If I remove the key and try a couple times I will finally get a clean key insert and normal instrument lighting and the car fires right up. I just ordered the FSM for 1999 C5 but wondering if any experts out there have any ideas for me? I am thinking I may have a short somewhere - but where! I also noticed that a couple times when I turned the key, I got a hard 'clunk' from what I assume was the starter. This only happened 2x and may just be because of an intermittent electrical surge?

thanks for any idea or advice

 

I agree....codes first. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch itself but till the codes, its really a crapshoot and just wild guessing.

 

Without posting your DTCs,, its an expensive crap-shoot.

Your will have numerous things to check before you figure it out. CLEAR ALL the DTCs The next it dies,,, immediately check and write down ALL the DTC without changing the position of the ignition switch.

BC

 

When my 2001 did the same things it was the ignition switch that was bad.

 

Check all the ground straps and ground connections remember these cars are known to need a lot of ground and grounding these engines is essential for performance.

 

[QUOTE=reeferdale;1578720443]Pulled codes - lot of 1016 loss of PCM communication on all modules, these could have been old codes. Cleared all codes - hard start and cut out on way down the driveway - checked codes only 2 this time IPC 0516 - Speedo circuit malfunction and IPC 1016 along with a RFA 1016?

When the problem first occured, I recorded all the codes (lots of 'H'). I cleared all of these so I could get current codes that are being thrown. I posted these codes in my original post (above). I am going to start drving it again, I have been keeping a log of all codes - the only ones I have so far are the ones in my orginal paost since I haven't driven it since this started. I will post any codes as they occur. (still waiting on the FSM)

thanks

 

[QUOTE=8VETTE7;1578765513]thanks for these links, really really apprciated. I did noitce water on the passsenger side floor and I have pulled the footwell toe kick off and threw a fan in there for a while. I checked with a flash light and did not notice any wet wires or moisture.

When I had the problem, I inserted the key and turned to the on position and noticed when the security light flashes very fast, if it did, then I turned it off removed and re-insert the key and try this again. So for now, I have gotten into the habit of turning the key to on, checking the security light/guages for flikering and if they are OK then I start the car. When I was getting the flahing Sec light, as long as I followed this method I did not have any starting or shut off issues. I did insert the key once and noticed the sec light blinking very rapidly but I did not attempt to start.

For now, I think I have an intermitent issue that is going to take some time to narrow down, that is why I have been trying to keep track of the order that things occur. I do not have any new codes since the last issue and I have not had the rapid Sec light for 3 days now. maybe something was wet? that would be an easy fix, eh?

Thanks for your help, I have the FSM now and I will follow through on the links you posted for me. As I get this more narrowed down, I may be asking for a little more specific help if you all don't mind.

thanks again for the links and info, I think you may have nailed this one for me.

Dale

 

Hi all,

I am going to begin testing that 8VETTE7 provided me info on in the last post - thanks for that. I just wanted to post the latest info I have regarding the specific problem in case anyone with this exact situation sees it and can share their solution.

I have torqued the battery leads and checked the body grounds. I have been driving the car for the past week or so and I have a definite repeatable set of circumstances that I can now share. I notice that when I insert the key and turn it to 'ON', there are times that the securtiy light flases rapidly, the IP lights flicker, the message line that says 'Corvette' will have garbled letters, and I have a light clicking under the passenger foot panel. I have narrowed down the issue to this exact series of events every time. If I remove the key and try again, I can get the issue to go away, but some times it takes several attempts. A few times I have wiped the key before trying again but I have also been sucessfull without wiping the key so wiping the key off is not actually required. I have verified that this issue occurs with both keys. If I attempt to start the car with this occuring, I just get a click from the starter like you would get if you had a dead battery, but the car will not start. I have also had 2 more incidents of the car dying on me while driving and I have had to remove the key and go through this procedure. Fortunatley each time the car has re-started and run fine. I now have my FSM, but, before I go tearing into random electrical diagnostics, I am just wondering what any of the more experienced members might suggest as a starting point.

Also, I have no new codes to report. Since this occurs before engine start, I am not sure that any codes would be captured?
I am thinking I should start with eliminating the ignition switch as a problem?

Any one have any other suggestions for a good starting point(s)?

thanks

 

You have NOT rebuilt that ignition switch YET???



Rebuild the switch and also,,, Check the female pins in the ignition switch wiring harness connector. Some times the female pins get deformed and sloppy and looses connection with the male pin. That can cause the connector to melt.

BC

 

Man, I am really on the fence here. I only have about 3 weeks left to drive the car this year. I LOVE DRIVING THIS CAR. As much as I liked my two C4's, I wish I would have went with the C5 years ago.

Since I have been getting by, I am thinking I will wait till later this month to do it when I am ready to put e'er up for the winter, then I can take my time. Thanks to all the help I have received from here,and the FSM, I am sure I can do this and I will post pics when I actually take it apart and rebuild it.

being from CT, you should understand!!!

 

" being from CT, you should understand "

I drive my car when ever the weather allows. Spring, Summer, Fall and WINTER! As long as there no SNOW on the road or the roads are not sandy.

Bill

 

 

Sounds like my wife !!!!!