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Okay, I know this has been beat to death on here, but here's what's going on with mine.
I had a friend/customer of mine install TEA stage 1 heads along with a Texas speed 224r cam with .581 lift and 114 LSA. Thing runs great but needs a tune needless to say.
I had a lot of valve train noise after the install with 7.400 rods, so I did some checking with the 1 1/4 turns form 0 lash method, and came up needing a 7.350.
Well, it's still noisey. So I got serious about it, and got a push rod checker and rechecked it by turning out the checker and rechecking it until I got to 0 lash and came up with 8 1/2 turns to get to 0 lash.
So here's what I came up with....
6.800 + 8.5 truns(0.425) = 7.225 for 0 lash + .100 preload = 7.325 rod correct?
So with a 7.350 rod I'm still to long by 0.025.
Oh, and I also checked the wipe pattern, and it looks damm near perfect to me..
Just looking for some confirmation on what I'm doing is correct, and a 7.325 rod seems really short to me, and would 0.025 make that much difference in the way it would sound?
Last edited by TheDEfan; Sep 18, 2011 at 06:14 PM.
The adjustable pushrod is typically 0.050" so it looks like you mis-typed the value in your post.
Are the heads milled? Pushrod is getting short.
Yeah I know what you mean by with the values. I bought the heads used and he said thay had been "cleaned up" and we cleaned e'm up to, so I'm not sure by how much. Plus who knows what valves are in them, and that they did with the seats.
Corrected values, I think
Last edited by TheDEfan; Sep 18, 2011 at 06:16 PM.
If you have valve train noise with 7.400 push rods how can it be expected to decrease with shorter push rods? And I need to ask another question, as I'm fixing to add the YT's myself. I have a adustable pushrod for lenth checking, why not just adjust the lash to zero, measure the lenth and add .040. I'm asking here, would that method be acceptable? After verifying wipe pattern of course.
If you have valve train noise with 7.400 push rods how can it be expected to decrease with shorter push rods? And I need to ask another question, as I'm fixing to add the YT's myself. I have a adustable pushrod for lenth checking, why not just adjust the lash to zero, measure the lenth and add .040. I'm asking here, would that method be acceptable? After verifying wipe pattern of course.
Not real sure about that, but a lot of guys on the borad have gone shorter and have cleared up the noise.
I think you need more than 0.040 preload. From what I've read you need at least .080
Not real sure about that, but a lot of guys on the borad have gone shorter and have cleared up the noise.
I think you need more than 0.040 preload. From what I've read you need at least .080
Responded to your PM. There have been some with the LS7 lifters (not sure if you installed these) that have found less preload has quieted down the valve train. I have only read this and have no personal knowledge but you might want to search this board and LS1tech to see if you find a similar trend.
Also, if the heads have been worked the valves may be deeper and require a shorter pushrod. You might want to check a couple of cylinders just to verify consistency.
Last edited by vettenuts; Sep 19, 2011 at 05:11 AM.
I think you need more than 0.040 preload. From what I've read you need at least .080
As far as added noise, make sure your valve springs are not going into coil bind. With heads of unknown background it might not be the right spring for the cam.
This chart shows the dynamic range for all the different GM lifters over the years. The last lifter on the list, 17122490 is the LS7 lifter. Normal preload should be 2.09mm or .082".
So if I have a 1998 LS1 with stock lifters it looks like I need about .118 of preload? Looks like with a 7.350 rod I'm pretty darn close.
If you have the very early lifter this would be correct. With a performance cam I would normally change out the lifters to the newer 17122490 lifter. Note the part number is different if you buy a set of 16. The newer lifters are less likely to pump up at higher rpms compared to the early units.
If you have the very early lifter this would be correct. With a performance cam I would normally change out the lifters to the newer 17122490 lifter. Note the part number is different if you buy a set of 16. The newer lifters are less likely to pump up at higher rpms compared to the early units.
I used RHOADS (noisy) and couldn't get rid of the noise till I installed the Morels.
However, they seem to work the best at a very light preload (0.005").
Any more then that and I would trip a P300 code.
That's interesting. My Morel's were noisy at startup at 0.030" and absolutely quiet at 0.053" preload. Someone here recently found similar results with his preload and is ordering special pushrods to achieve this preload.
At 0.005" I would wonder whether any preload remains from cold to hot when things expand.
That's interesting. My Morel's were noisy at startup at 0.030" and absolutely quiet at 0.053" preload. Someone here recently found similar results with his preload and is ordering special pushrods to achieve this preload.
At 0.005" I would wonder whether any preload remains from cold to hot when things expand.
What I found is that I could run almost any preload, but anything above a 0.007 would trip the P300.
I had the PCM tuner look at this and he opened up the tolerance on the mis fire table.
I am running a Comp Cams #1500 adjustable rocker system.
With the RHOADS lifters, it never was quiet at any preload except almost all the way.
It didn't trip the P300 code as often with the RHOADS.
The MORELs are noisy at startup, but once the oil thins out, they are bitchin.
This thread has got me all intercoursed up. From the 1998 LS1 needing .118 preload, but a 99 LS1 needs .080, all the way to wondering whether .005 preload remains after engine warm up. I personally was thinking the preload would increase with temp. but after thinking about the aluminum block and head expansion rate, now I'm wondering too. Surely sombody here has adustable rockers that has (or will) set preload cold then checked it hot just to see where the valve train is at during operating conditions. My old SB 400 with pontiac heads decreased the lash by ~.015 from cold to hot settings.
It's really hard to belive you need a .100 shorter push rod with a cam ground on a smaller base circle.
When I did mine with used patriot heads my PR length increased to 7.425 to get .050 preload with LS7 lifters.
I'd recheck your measurments making sure your on the base of the cam.
It's really hard to belive you need a .100 shorter push rod with a cam ground on a smaller base circle.
When I did mine with used patriot heads my PR length increased to 7.425 to get .050 preload with LS7 lifters.
I'd recheck your measurments making sure your on the base of the cam.
I am wondering if the valves are deeper or taller.
Exactly! I kept re reading this thread wondering what I'm missing. I just changed out my cam, the pushrods I ordered are .075 longer than stock.
Maybe the OP is not on the Base Circle, I know with my LSK lobes I could not use TDC, I had the cam 180* from dot to dot then things measured out correctly.
Originally Posted by corvettebob1
It's really hard to belive you need a .100 shorter push rod with a cam ground on a smaller base circle.
When I did mine with used patriot heads my PR length increased to 7.425 to get .050 preload with LS7 lifters.
I'd recheck your measurments making sure your on the base of the cam.
It's really hard to belive you need a .100 shorter push rod with a cam ground on a smaller base circle.
When I did mine with used patriot heads my PR length increased to 7.425 to get .050 preload with LS7 lifters.
I'd recheck your measurments making sure your on the base of the cam.
I called Texas Speed and they would not confirm if the base circle was smaller or larger than stock. They told to me check my push rod length to make sure, "every combo is not the same" They said.
So I can't assume that the base is smaller. And the heads have been milled, by how much I'm not sure. I'm on the base. I checked 4 rods/valves and came out the same on each one. I assumed I was to short as well at first and installed 7.425 and the thing would idle but died as soon as I let out the clutch. I was hanging the valves open at the point.
Last edited by TheDEfan; Sep 20, 2011 at 10:37 PM.