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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:06 PM
  #1  
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Went to lower my windows and they would not work, nothing on the door panel would work. Then all idiot lights came on in dash. All gauges where pinned and not working. Computer started relaying messages, low tire pressure, service engine, lower speed etc. A/C stopped working also. Car shows no signs of power loss and continues to run fine. If I disconnect battery everything returns to normal but same problem returns after a short run.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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How is the battery voltage? Alternator putting out like it should? Did you have your doors open for an extended period of time and have the courtesy lights run down the battery? Some other battery drain? When the voltage gets low all heck can break loose because the BCM doesn't have the power to operate correctly.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DBLTRGR
How is the battery voltage? Alternator putting out like it should? Did you have your doors open for an extended period of time and have the courtesy lights run down the battery? Some other battery drain? When the voltage gets low all heck can break loose because the BCM doesn't have the power to operate correctly.
Battery is fine and alternator is fine
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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Please pull your codes and list them. Sounds like your battery is on it's way out. How do you know it's good? If you haven't already, take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
Please pull your codes and list them. Sounds like your battery is on it's way out. How do you know it's good? If you haven't already, take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

If you dont know how to pull your codes just do a search and you should come up with some good info as it gets posted about once a day.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cdkcorvette7
Please pull your codes and list them. Sounds like your battery is on it's way out. How do you know it's good? If you haven't already, take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
I will have the battery load tested, then I'll let you know the results
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 09:05 AM
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Check the wiring in the accordian tube connecting the door to the A pillar.

And sorry to hear about your "ED".
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 09:14 AM
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You either have a corrupted serial data buss,,,,,,, OR,,,,,,,,, your BCM is wet/damp. My guess would be the serial data buss is corrupt cause one or both of the door connectors are having issues.

Read and post your DTCs. That will give us a more pointed idea in what way to tell you to go but, just for Grins,,,, open BOTH doors and grab the wiring harness inside each rubber accordion tube and shake the hell out of them. BET YA it solves or changes the issue.

Your door connector female pins are most likely deformed or corroded and need to be massaged to make the correct connections. Heres what a deformed female pin looks like:



I use a metal pick to reform the metal tong to male proper contact with the male pin.

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



BC

Last edited by Bill Curlee; Oct 10, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 12:17 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Edmonti
I will have the battery load tested, then I'll let you know the results
I had the battery checked out everytinig is the way it should be. Alternator is working fine.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 03:57 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Edmonti
I had the battery checked out everytinig is the way it should be. Alternator is working fine.
Have you attempted to pull your codes yet? They will lead you in the right direction as right now we are just taking a stab in the dark.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:01 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by m6 c5

If you dont know how to pull your codes just do a search and you should come up with some good info as it gets posted about once a day.
I will need to order a scanner, what do you recommend
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Edmonti
I will need to order a scanner, what do you recommend
You dont need a scanner and they actually will not pull all of your codes. Follow the writeup that Bill Curlee has given you and you will be good to go.
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