I'm a new and first time Vette owner. I have a 99 with 154K miles on it. I got it cheap because of the mileage and the misc issues it has with it. I've already fixed a few things, wipers, dim A/C controller, and headlight. The ride is rough and was considering new shocks so I've been reading up on them on this forum. Also my car has the selective ride control switch installed, but I'm not sure if it really has that option. There were a few extras in the rear hatch when I got the car like a seat control module, an extra A/C controller and an extra panel with the Active Handling button in it. I don't know if the previous owner thought he could give it SRC by just putting in the controller or if the other AH controller is just an extra. I can't tell any difference in the ride when I change the switch positions of the SRC. How can I tell what I really have?

Thanks in advance.

Brents

 

Those cars shipped with a damper installed on the shocks-many dealers did NOT remove them like they were suppose to on delivery making them ride rough. Do a SEARCH, I believe they were YELLOW. Once removed, the ride is supposed to be much better and the selective mode will then actually do something.

 

After finding the controller without the SRC switch, I'm not sure whether my car even has that option or not.

 

The options list is on the glovebox door.

 

The 99s with selective ride will be the F45 option. That was never delivered with the shock sponges. The 2004+ has the F55 shocks that came with the shock tampons. I did meet a guy who got an anniversary edition (oh, and 2003 anniversary eds had it too) and it did still have the shock sponges. He said it rode like a BEEOTCH with them installed.

Anyways....The F45 shocks will have little arm-like levers sticking out of them attached to some machinery on the frame and wires coming out the top of the shock. F45 works OK with the right tires but the newer F55 is just supposed to be great.

F45s ride suffers if you have the stiff and hard Goodyear RunFlat tires. You can't really feel the difference in the settings. Instead of "Tour, Sport and Performance" it's like "Hard, Harder and Hardest". Switch to softer runflats or non-runflats and it comes alive. Disconnecting the battery and letting the system reboot seems to make the difference in the settings more distinct for a while.

 

Thanks for the info guys. This gives me something work with and I will check for the F45 code when I get home.

 

Read and post your DTCs. Do YOU HAVE ANY DIC MESSAGES when you turn the key on or start the engine??

If you actually do have selective Ride F-45, the shocks will have an electrical wiring harness attached to the bottom solenoid control valve on the shock and the control arms will have a small linkage arm attached to the control arm that connects to a sensor. You will also have a control module mounted in the left rear stowage well under the carpet flap. If the module is or has been removed, there will be three wiring connectors not connected to anything.

IF, the F-45 shocks are just installed,,, get rid of that foolish crap and install some real shocks, springs and sway bars. C6 ZO6 parts will do nicely!!

Lets figure out what you really have and then go from there

Here is a code write up for you
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

Bill,
We should get the mods to make your post a sticky thread. The title should says, don't ask for help with a problem until you have done this.

 

With DOUBHFRESH about the shock stuffers. My 2003 Anni had them when I bought it and at 29000 miles discovered that they were still in. rides great now

 

The F45 selective ride Real Time Dampening system did not ever have SHOCK STUFFERS. Only cars with the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride had them and the yellow stuffers SHOULD have been removed at time of delivery.

BC

 

I would like to see more info on this, I searched and I'm not having any luck. My 01 with ride control does not ride as well as my 2000 did. Could this be the problem?

 

You should have searched the post right above yours. Bill Curlee ( and others before) stated that the stuffers were only in 03 and 04 F55 suspension. An 01 is real time dampening (F45) and DID NOT come with the stuffers, so it couldn't be your problem.

 

No.