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Help! No oil pressure.

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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:08 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by All_Motor_C5LS6
How many miles did you have on it? How hard were you running it the night before?

what was your redline? Do you check the oil level routinely?
I change the oil right at 3000 miles with mobil 1. I check the oil level monthly and it doesnt burn any oil. In fact for some strange reason just before I checked the oil it was a quarter inch past the full mark. Which is odd because I filled it up last time to where it was in between full and low.

My redline is set at 6500 which is where I shift it at. I only ran it through a couple gears the night before shifting at redline. 2nd and 3rd. Yea, closed course...

The engine had 92k miles on it. When I bought the car I was told it had a larger cam and roller rockers from the dealer. I then found out it had stock rockers and stock valve springs and bad valve seals. Replaced all that and got it tuned. It has been running flawlessly ever since. Now what has been done to the engine internally I have no clue. I was told nothing. but looking at all the oil leaks this motor has coming out of every place on the motor I doubt the heads have never been removed.

I did have a forum member pm me saying he saw this car for sale in maryland just before it was sold down here in virginia. He said it was running like crap and the guy was having motor problems and couldnt get it fixed so he was selling it.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 01:27 PM
  #42  
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My car decides to have oil pressure today...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2JOa...&feature=feedu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTuAa...&feature=feedu
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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Maybe I am missing something but over 300,000 miles on any engine what would your expectation be going to redline? I think if it were me I would say thank you to the engine gods and go on my way.
I understand the constraints of money but if you are going to take out a loan to make the repairs then I would suggest a long term strategy rather than a short term fix. Just my $.02. Good luck .
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Wood
Maybe I am missing something but over 300,000 miles on any engine what would your expectation be going to redline? I think if it were me I would say thank you to the engine gods and go on my way.
I understand the constraints of money but if you are going to take out a loan to make the repairs then I would suggest a long term strategy rather than a short term fix. Just my $.02. Good luck .
Where did you get 300k from? The car has 92,000 miles on it.It had 68k on it a year ago when I bought it. I'm not taking out a loan for the repairs. But then again I can't see sinking 8-10 grand on a brand new engine for a car I wouldnt even get 15k for if I sold it.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:15 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
Where did you get 300k from? The car has 92,000 miles on it.It had 68k on it a year ago when I bought it. I'm not taking out a loan for the repairs. But then again I can't see sinking 8-10 grand on a brand new engine for a car I wouldnt even get 15k for if I sold it.
Just re-do the crank & bearings and have the block tested & cleaned.
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:20 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
Where did you get 300k from? The car has 92,000 miles on it.It had 68k on it a year ago when I bought it. I'm not taking out a loan for the repairs. But then again I can't see sinking 8-10 grand on a brand new engine for a car I wouldnt even get 15k for if I sold it.
Makes sense.....especially if you plan on driving 24k miles per year
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Makes sense.....especially if you plan on driving 24k miles per year
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Paul Wood
Maybe I am missing something but over 300,000 miles on any engine what would your expectation be going to redline? I think if it were me I would say thank you to the engine gods and go on my way.
I understand the constraints of money but if you are going to take out a loan to make the repairs then I would suggest a long term strategy rather than a short term fix. Just my $.02. Good luck .
Sorry, that's my car, not the OP's. Please don't confuse the two.
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #49  
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Just put down the money for a brand new gm LS6 long block. Should be here next week. Should I go back with the LS6 clutch or go with an LS7?
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
Just put down the money for a brand new gm LS6 long block. Should be here next week. Should I go back with the LS6 clutch or go with an LS7?

I'd say go with the LS7. It will hold up to the abuse much better than the LS6. I have one in my '98 and I absolutely love it.

Are you going to mod that new engine at all? Tell us your plans!
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 01:29 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Ironembraced
I'd say go with the LS7. It will hold up to the abuse much better than the LS6. I have one in my '98 and I absolutely love it.

Are you going to mod that new engine at all? Tell us your plans!
No sir. This is my daily driver and I want this motor to last a long time. This one is for an 04 zo6 so its 405hp stock. I am hooking it up to my TPIS long tube headers, random technologies 2.75" x-pipe and high flow cats then to the borla stingers. Putting on my ls6 intake and port and polished throttle body. Then hooking up the vararam intake. My ls1 put down 388rwhp. I am hoping this puts down something close. I am reading a zo6 with bolts on and tune get around 390rwhp. So once I get everything done I am going back to my tuner to see what it can put out.

I have been hearing that the LS7 clutch is too stiff. Are you running with the LS7 flywheel or an aluminum? I hear mixed things about aluminum flywheels.

While I am in there doing the clutch I am putting in a brand new slave and clutch master cylinder. Since my clutch now likes to stick to the floor during hard shifts.

So next year I am sending off the transmission for a rebuild. Hell I will have a pretty much brand new car then.
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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
No sir. This is my daily driver and I want this motor to last a long time. This one is for an 04 zo6 so its 405hp stock. I am hooking it up to my TPIS long tube headers, random technologies 2.75" x-pipe and high flow cats then to the borla stingers. Putting on my ls6 intake and port and polished throttle body. Then hooking up the vararam intake. My ls1 put down 388rwhp. I am hoping this puts down something close. I am reading a zo6 with bolts on and tune get around 390rwhp. So once I get everything done I am going back to my tuner to see what it can put out.

I have been hearing that the LS7 clutch is too stiff. Are you running with the LS7 flywheel or an aluminum? I hear mixed things about aluminum flywheels.

While I am in there doing the clutch I am putting in a brand new slave and clutch master cylinder. Since my clutch now likes to stick to the floor during hard shifts.

So next year I am sending off the transmission for a rebuild. Hell I will have a pretty much brand new car then.
Yeah, my LS7 clutch is stiffer than I would prefer. But I have read something about needing to shim the slave cylinder to make the LS7 more smooth. I wish I would have researched that when I had the engine out of the vette.

The LS7 is defintely bigger and more forgiving if you beat on your vette occasionally. It's probably worth a second look IMO. I've heard some people have been able to get theirs to feel like a stock clutch.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 12:27 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Ironembraced
Yeah, my LS7 clutch is stiffer than I would prefer. But I have read something about needing to shim the slave cylinder to make the LS7 more smooth. I wish I would have researched that when I had the engine out of the vette.

The LS7 is defintely bigger and more forgiving if you beat on your vette occasionally. It's probably worth a second look IMO. I've heard some people have been able to get theirs to feel like a stock clutch.
Did you do the drill mod too?
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
Did you do the drill mod too?
I didn't do any mods to it.

I have a brand new LS1 slave cylinder just installed and I didn't even think to check at the time, what flywheel I am using. Now, I regret not buying the best slave cylinder I could have gotten when I had the chance. From what I read, the slave cylinder usually goes bad before the clutch does with the LS7.

My clutch was installed by a previous owner...6k miles on it so far. The pedal would feel improved if it engaged a little bit lower to the floor. From what I have read, that can be solved by a shim.

*edit* There is a descrepency between the shim required by a C5 and an Fbody. I haven't been able to find out what the true shim needs to be on the C5 yet, there seems to be alot of different measurements out there for it.

Last edited by Vicarious.; Oct 29, 2011 at 01:35 AM.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 01:26 AM
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I ordered my clutch with the 04 zo6 slave and master cylinders. Which I have read have larger holes. I'll see how it does with no shim. From what I read only a few add shims. So it can't be that bad without. Also just ordered a speed bleeder. Hope this is all I need. Now just need to buy new bolts.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Qwik01
I ordered my clutch with the 04 zo6 slave and master cylinders. Which I have read have larger holes. I'll see how it does with no shim. From what I read only a few add shims. So it can't be that bad without. Also just ordered a speed bleeder. Hope this is all I need. Now just need to buy new bolts.
Hope it goes well for you man.
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Old Oct 29, 2011 | 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Ironembraced
Hope it goes well for you man.
Thanks
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