due to serious health problems my 21,000 mile, 1998 c5 sat for almost three years and was occasionally driven by brother, brother in law and son in law for only +or- ten miles to charge battery. evidently battery was dead each time and one new battery was installed. throgh a blessed miracle i am up and recovering and have been very interested in all three of my hotrods. i hobby drive and spend lots of time in my shop cleaning and waxing on all three. i just had 2002 wheels installed on my vette and am catogue shopping for performance upgrades. anyway, back to my problems, the dic screen is black but all gages work. i would not do anything about it except for the fact i can not verify the car mileage. when i punch the mode button the speedometer changes from mph to kph and the outside temp changes from celsious to farenhite. is the entire instrument cluster bad or could the lite for the screen just be out? no fuse found in panel under the hood and i can not find a fuse panel under the dash. due to the strokes i can not bend over very far or lay on my back, any ideas? next, the ac does not work. it feels like heated air comes out of the vents and i understand that the air blowed cold last fall. the closest chevy dealer is 25 miles away and the car has never sat outside or has seen a rain drop. would setting for long periods of time and battery constantly being dead and recharged have caused these problems and could i have a local repair shop make repairs if i could diagnose the problem and possible fix for them. fell very vulnerable and untrusting. any help will be very much appreciated. garrell.770:

 

I would think the A/C problem is just low on freon.. About any shop could recharge for you...

Your DIC may just be corrosion on a connector... If you can get to the back of it and wiggle the connectors you may fix it... It's not too hard (there is a write up on the forum) to remove the DIC.. Try a search...

 

There's been a couple of reports of DIC failure here before. I think they were all the "regulator" circuit on the rear of the IPC and no, GM does not sell it by itself. Either you buy one from a recycler, the whole IPC from a recycler or a new IPC. Remember too that replacing the whole IPC, you need to fix the odometer miles which is stored on a board on the rear of the IPC too.

 

Glad to hear that you back on your feet and back in the seat!!



Without the DTC working,, you will need a diagnostic scanner to read and clear the DTCs. I use the ACTRON CP 9180. Get one that can read LIVE SENSOR DATA and O2 Sensor data. Plug it into the OBDII ALDL Port under the drivers side dash.

Clear ALL the DTCs and see what comes back.. You need a new or used Instrument Cluster as it sounds like the display module is damaged. You said its BLACK. Did you mean blank??

Once you have a new cluster, you can have your mileage module swapped into the new cluster.

Here are TWO post that I found on gage clusters:

- C5 Gage Cluster disassembly - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380674

- C5 Gage Cluster Post - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1570380878


Bill

 

Perhaps you have already done this, but you MUST have a good battery in a C5 before you worry about other problems. Verify that the battery is above 12.5 volts--engine off--and that it will hold a full charge overnight. Iffy batteries make C5s go crazy.

 

thanks for the suggestions: there is a brand new battery(heavy duty) on the car, and i wondered if the temp.reading would change and the symbol on the speedodometer will change from mph to kph if possibly there was a fuse somewhere that i am missing, that might be blown. the screen is blank or blacked out. i know there is a lot of trouble with the instrument cluster on the 2003 to 2005 ss chevy trucks, where the gages will start faling including the speedometer. there are several companies that keep the clusters in stock and you give them the vin number and the total mileage win you call in the order. the cost is around $480.00 and you get $200.00 back when you return the core. i did not notice them listing any corvette clucters though. does anyone know of an interior fuse panel that might have a blown fuse that is for a light in the panel. i can not lay down in the floor and look under the dash but i could instruct my grandson, that i am trying to influence into being a gearhead instead of one wanting a better stereo in his kia or somthing similar. also even on the very cool days we have been having the air conditioning vents blow heated air even when turned down to 68. all the past and future suggesstions are appreciated. garrell.770

 

There are two fuse panels. One is at the foot of the passenger footwell in the removeable panel there. The other is in the engine compartment next to the battery

 

If it's not the freon, which I think is recommended to charge once at least every 5 years (around 2 years for hot climates), then the actuators are known to go bad on these cars. I had a stereo install done and the A/C was working beforehand and I spent like 2 weeks arguing with the stereo installation place saying they broke my A/C, but it turns out it was just an actuator. Drivers side for me. And they are a PITA to get to. In your situation definitely not smart to try and do that yourself.

My symptoms for the actuator going out were less air blowing and hot even set at 60 degrees. Also, like I said it "went out" in one day. It didn't slowly get hot over time like freon would do. If that helps at all.

Just do a little more research and see if you can find the problem, because I am sure a dealer would charge you an arm and a leg to replace an actuator.

If you download the corvette manual on one of the forum topics here they have troubleshooting steps. I HIGHLY recommend getting either the shop manuals or downloading the DVD. Even if you don't do most of the work yourself.

 

You did try turning the dash light ****? Just checking since if you're in a garage without the e-brake set then the lights can be set to automatically come-on when you turn the key on.

Peter

 

If the HVAC System has DTCs set,, the actuators may not function properly. Try this. Even though you don't have a DIC display, you can still try to erase the DTCs. Go thru these steps and see if you can erase the HVAC DTCs You will have to scrol down thru each module and press and hold the RESET button till you hear a BEEP. Do that for each MODULE. That way your sure to hit the HVAC module and reset the DTC. See if you can hear the actuator cycle after the reset

Turn the HVAC System OFF, clear the HVAC DTCs. When you do, you should hear the actuators cycle thru their ranges. Once it does that, see if it works normal. You may have to clear the DTCs and cycle the actuators several times to get them to work.

You can also try pulling the HVAC Fuse. That will reset everything. Like I stated, It may take several tries to get it to work.

Heres the procedure:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!



BC

 

Fuses for the ICP are in the Instrument panel Electrical center in the passengers foot well behind the toe board.

The fuse/s you need to check are:

BCM SIPC Fuse# 25 (10 amp)
IPC mini fuse# 19 (10 amp)

Theres a ground by the battery on the frame (G-104) and thats the ground. The ground goes thru Splice pack SP 208

The HVAC Fuse is in the same panel and its the HVAC CON mini fuse #27. Pull that one to reset the HVAC Actuators.



Bill

 

i don't need a memory when i have got all of the years of corvette knowledge helping me out. as soon as it is daylight in georgia i am heading up the ramp to the shop. first i will follow bill's directive to clear all codes from the ac unit and then i am going to try to sit in the drivers seat an find and get to the fuse panel and check all of the fuses that all of you suggest that i check and pull the ac fuse to all so reset and clear any codes. if i can not get down in the floor and can take the car up to my friends rod shop. he has already told me that he would check, recharge and test for leaks on the ac unit. he is old school and does not get into computer type problems but he could study and pick these type things in no time. you should see some of his work, he is so meticulose(i should not try those big words, i know i butcher the spelling) he will not quit until a fabricated piece or body panel fits absolutely perferct. and if he thinks he is taking too long he will adjust his time in his little book at which he charges $20.00 an hour. i try not go to him unless we have an understanding ahead of time because he will not let me pay him and i do not want any charity, but he will not try anything much on corvettes or ls type negine problems. back to the subject, i will let all of you know what i find or accomplish and thanks a lot for these and all other tips. garrell.770