When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I go to start my car it barely starts up I stick the key it fuel pump sounds weak gauges are slow then when I turn the key it will click like a dead battery for a few seconds then finally fire up and run like nothing ever happened pulled codes and got ldcm b2282 and rdcm 2283 which are battery fault errors I checked the batter and was told it was good car runs 13.8 to 14.3 volts when on. Just seeing if anybody has had this problem before or know how to fix it. Its getting worse now that it's starting to get cold
Check your ground wires (frame), battery connections and your starter solenoid wires for tightness and/or corrosion. My bet is on the starter connection.
i thought the starter also bc i just installed longtubes but i checked the starter wires they looked tight. If i put jumper cables it starts a whole lot easier so i'm thinking even though the battery is charging 100% it still has something wrong with it or just getting old. I checked the grounds by the headlights but havent checked the ones by the doors
If you just put on LTs, check your wires carefully as there are several posts here where the battery/starter wire is too close to the headers, but hard to see the damage. Does it occur both on cold and warm starts?
You also need to check your voltage not running. Your stated voltage means your alternator is fine. However, your battery could be toast if it is not maintaning > 12.5 after hours of non use, could be adding to your problem with the new temps outside. I still think it is too coincidental with your LT install. Not Mr GoodWrench here by a long shot...just a thought...
yea i see where your coming from on those wires down there everything is real close it wouldnt hurt to unbolt the header and move stuff around to check it out. all i know it damn vettes are way to sensitive cant live with em cant live with out em
Check your fuel pressure, especially the bleed down after the car is off.
Good point. I got tunnel vision on the LT install timing. If you do not have them, an ok fuel pressure gauge and multi-meter can be had for less than $100. Invaluable on these cars (and others).
Had jumper cables on the car for a few mins started the car fine took them off waited a cpl of hours and it started ok so thinking the battery is just messing up... also when I turn on my car the miles are always on the cluster no matter what I had it on before dk if that makes a difference but I just know it would always be on what i had it on before I turned it off
The fuel pressure won't cause the car to "just click like a weak battery."
Stay on the path of battery or connections to starter. Your description sounds like a battery that's not holding a charge.
The fuel pressure won't cause the car to "just click like a weak battery."
Stay on the path of battery or connections to starter. Your description sounds like a battery that's not holding a charge.
Agreed. Your possible low battery may be the cause of the weak pump "sound". Until you check both, you will not know. I still suspect the timing of the LT install and your issue. Get it in the air and check. Best of luck!
Edit: Once again, please check your battery voltage after non use to verify >12.5 volts and the condition of your hot cable to the starter near the headers.
Last edited by fishmen222; Nov 5, 2011 at 08:28 PM.
thanks for your help guys it was just the battery. I just the guy that checked it 2 weeks ago didnt check it right. does anybody know what the volts should be at on the dash with the car turned on just sitting? i'm seeing 13.7 to 14.2 is that a normal range?
thanks for your help guys it was just the battery. I just the guy that checked it 2 weeks ago didnt check it right. does anybody know what the volts should be at on the dash with the car turned on just sitting? i'm seeing 13.7 to 14.2 is that a normal range?