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2000 Engine Build: Bets on HP...

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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #41  
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Figured out the crappy spring compressor - preload it as much as possible by twisting the spring through the forks. then there's just enough compression to get the retainers in there.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Good progress.
My old C style valve spring compressor won't remove mine at all. The valve cover rails are too tall.
I'll need to fing a solution as well.
What tool did you order?
ron
The tool I ordered is the one flat piece of steel with the stud and nut. One half rests on the valve cover rail and the other half is on the valve spring retainer. Screw down the nut and **presto** the keepers pop out.

The crap device from AZ is in the photo behind the head.
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 04:50 PM
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Take that can of carb cleaner and clean those pistons. I say HP will be about 390 RWHP. And it depends on the tune.

Your lucky to. You are uglier in person then in pictures. HAHA
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by teddyca
Your lucky to. You are uglier in person then in pictures. HAHA
Yea it's all about the angle. How is the view down there
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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With the whole week off of work - I thought I'd have this put back together by now... But I have been sick as a dog Progress slowed to a crawl by tuesday.

I've managed to get the valvesprings changed out to PAC1218s -and have the heads sitting on the block.

Ordered replacements for unexpected bad parts: a harmonic balancer and the AC belt tensioner.


All the springs installed:


Heads sitting on the engine:
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #46  
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchcole

Front buttoned up:

How did you go about aligning the front cover?
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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I'm guessing you are asking this because there are no dowel locators.
Interesting.

Ron
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I'm guessing you are asking this because there are no dowel locators.
Interesting.

Ron
I'm asking because alignment is required. If not done, the new seal will wear out prematurely.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
I'm asking because alignment is required. If not done, the new seal will wear out prematurely.
I got that. No locator dowels, hence you have to align it so it centers on the balancer. So do you know the process?
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
I got that. No locator dowels, hence you have to align it so it centers on the balancer. So do you know the process?
You have three choices:

1) Buy the alignment tool (most expensive option, but worth the expense if you are buliding motors often).

2) Measure with ruler

3) Leave the cover loose, press on the balancer, and tighten the cover down.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 02:00 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
You have three choices:

1) Buy the alignment tool (most expensive option, but worth the expense if you are buliding motors often).

2) Measure with ruler

3) Leave the cover loose, press on the balancer, and tighten the cover down.
IMHO option #1 is the only way to go.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
You have three choices:

1) Buy the alignment tool (most expensive option, but worth the expense if you are buliding motors often).

2) Measure with ruler

3) Leave the cover loose, press on the balancer, and tighten the cover down.
Thanks Lucky.

I'll be doing all this in the near future.
If replacing the balancer, a guy could cut the hub section out of the old one and hone it for a nice slip fit on the crank and make an alignment tool.

So Mitch, did you align the dang deal?

Ron
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 02:36 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by RonSSNova
Thanks Lucky.

I'll be doing all this in the near future.
If replacing the balancer, a guy could cut the hub section out of the old one and hone it for a nice slip fit on the crank and make an alignment tool.

So Mitch, did you align the dang deal?

Ron
Uh oh.

Never occured to me. It simply seemed to fit on like it came off. That pointer couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks!

What I did do was clean the bottom mating surface of the pan and clean the whole cover. Applied silicone to the bottom of the cover and then secured it to the pan with the bottom bolts. There was no noticible tolerance issues...i.e. there was no play on the cover with the bottom bolts snug. I'll look into that. Might have to take it back off, clean off the silicone and redo loose and then add the balancer so that it's center. Then snug down.

Last edited by mitchcole; Nov 26, 2011 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchcole
Uh oh.

Never occured to me. It simply seemed to fit on like it came off. That pointer couldn't have come at a better time. Thanks!

What I did do was clean the bottom mating surface of the pan and clean the whole cover. Applied silicone to the bottom of the cover and then secured it to the pan with the bottom bolts. There was no noticible tolerance issues...i.e. there was no play on the cover with the bottom bolts snug. I'll look into that. Might have to take it back off, clean off the silicone and redo loose and then add the balancer so that it's center. Then snug down.
Yikes......that's right out of the service manual. I certainly hope you are not going through all this effort, without a manual for reference.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #56  
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Yea - I have the DVD version. Obviously didn't look at it. I was mostly using the LE1HowTo instructions.
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Old Nov 26, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchcole
I was mostly using the LE1HowTo instructions.
That's what I figured.

Good luck with your build.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 09:14 PM
  #58  
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OK, I'm alive - so back to the task at hand. Putting this beast back together. If you missed it, there was a slight derailment with the intake (I'm doing this on the cheap, and that included an LS6 intake that needed love. Thought it'd be easier... That thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-pics.html)

So, since the last pics - the front timing cover was pulled back off again because of the lack of centering around the balancer. I measured it - and there was a 0.030" difference in clearance from one side to the other. Relying on the oil pan bolts to line things up doesn't work. Thanks to Lucky on pointing this out.

Put the new balancer in the oven at 250 degrees to get it to slide on. That helped with the first 1/4". From there, I used my "handy dandy" installer made from 7/16 rod welded onto the end of the previous balancer bolt:


So, here the new balancer is installed as well as the AC belt and intake.


With the electrical and PCV and evap controls back in place.:
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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The a/c belt is not on correctly. Flat side of belt should go under the top pulley.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
The a/c belt is not on correctly. Flat side of belt should go under the top pulley.
the manual shows all this
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