Ok lets see if I can ask this right.

Im wanting to know if you take a 224/224 and swap it out for a 224/228 with the same LSA and lift what would be the change in the engine?
More torque down low or high? More power high or low?
And what if you have a 228/224 vs a 224/224 is it the opposite affect as the spec I stated above?

And also how does the LSA numbers affect power like 110 vs 114. does one have more power than the other and if so where in the power band?

Just trying to get an idea of what slight changes in spec will do to the car

 

No expert, but the link here will give you some good basics to start with.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...s/viewall.html

 

Im going to have to read that a few times before I understand it lol, Im only half way through and I keep having to re read things because I'm getting lost. I will keep reading though but if anyone can come in and give me an answer to my question for dummies like me that'd be great

So far what I take is if a cam that is 224/224 with a 110LCA is going to make more power than a 224/224 with a 114 LCA, can anyone confirm that?
But that I could run a 230/230 with a 114 LCA to keep over lap to a minimum.
Im still not quite sure what the power differences would be on a cam with slighter more exhaust but same LCA

 

I think the power just carries out a little further. The extra exhaust duration helps scavenging, is also good to help a more restrictive exhaust (ie stock manifolds or Shorties). Bringing the LS down on the same duration helps low end and mid range but won't carry the power as high in the rpm band, it also makes the idle more choppy.

 

I run a 224/224 581/581 112+4

Should have put in a 224/228 581/588 112+4 That would have provided a bit more torque

a 110 moves the power band to the lower RPM range, IRRC, but anything less then a 112 is not really for street driving.

Some over lap is good

a 224/230 581/588 on a 114+2 or a 112+0 would be a very good cam with supporting mods. PP heads, LTs, high flow, low restriction exhaust and good CAI, PLUS GREAT TUNE

One can read too much cam info and get confused. Talk to a local engine builder and tell them what you want your car to do? then let the builder suggest and do the work

 

maybe this will help

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...cam-guide.html

 

I would never consider such a small change in a camshaft---I don't believe there will be any net gains or losses comparing the 2 grinds---the .228 may sound a bit choppier with the extended exh duration- ( if you look at Comps "thumper cam series they have big int/exh splits in duration) this creates a real thumpity idle--but not any MORE HP--
Lower LSA's typically will make it idle more choppier and racy sounding--results of more overlap---Lower LSA's are also dirtier as the overlaps sends alot of unburnt gases out the tailpipe--This creates a "scavenging" affect on the exhaust and helps get rid of your ehaust more efficently---On a D/D weekend racer I wouldn't waste any time on such details that are (to me) not signiicant on a "non race only application"

 

Ill read that other link and thanks for your guys explanations, they make more sense and now that I know that maybe I'll understand the reading alil more.

So what does the 110 vs 110+2 mean? Its not the same as a 112 correct? But why

 

110 is lobe separation

110+2 is lobe separation with 2 degrees of advance ground into the cam, still has 110 lobe separation. Your not changing the lobe separation, just advancing the cam 2 degrees

 

And this assumes all is perfect when installed dot to dot. Always best to go through the degreeing process.

 

Can anyone think of why I would want to get a different cam than this one?
FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 228"/230" .576"/.595" 112LSA I think its an F11 on Futrals website.

I won't end up doing heads or a charger on this car. A cam is as far as Im taking it since I've done all other bolt on mods. I'm wanting fun streetable power, not really concerned with power up top. I'd rather give up 10hp up top to get 10lbs in the midrange.

So if any of you want to suggest something else go for it but please explain why

And also if I understand the whole advancing a camshaft thing like 112+4. And this means the camshaft opens 4degrees earlier, why not just get a 228/228 112 instead of a 224/224 112+4 or am I getting it wrong?

 

Why would you look for a cam with more duration if you wanted more torque in the lower/middle portion of your power band??

I think you need to clearly communicate what you want to accomplish and carefully select a proven professional/shop to work with to help you get there versus getting completely confused trying to help yourself by listening to various opinions on the Internet.

I will tell you this though.....your not going to see any significant changes in the engines torque output (in the area of the power curve your wanting to improve) because your current cam is already in the ballpark "sweetspot" if your goals are good all around power and solid torque in the lower/middle part of the curve. Im not saying you can't see a small improvement with a really optimized cam but it will be a very marginal improvement....something you would get used to in a few weeks or less leaving you longing for more.

If I were you I would ditch the stock heads, keep your current cam to save some money, and then feel a really big gain if you go with the right set of heads.....I'm partial to a pair of extremely efficient AFR's ....a 210 would work great (or a used set of 205's if you can find a pair in good shape). NOW you will realize a big SOTP increase with more power, more torque, more responsiveness, and more fuel economy as well.

The money you would invest in a cam swap is a really bad investment IMO when you weigh your dollars invested against the smallish gains your likely to experience.

Anyway....stumbled on this thread and thought I would try a quick (IMO needed) re-direct.....LOL

Good luck whatever you decide to do but think hard about my suggestion....

(Not to mention heads are easier and faster to install than a cam swap!)

-Tony

PS....With a head swap you can also bump the static CR and run a thinner gasket for more ideal compression and quench....also beneficial to every performance benefit I mentioned earlier.

 

You know thats a damn good idea. Isn't labor for a headswap cheaper than a cam install too?
What about just picking up a set of new 243 heads for $800? And don't you port heads by the way?

 

The LSA of 112 does not change with a cam designated 112+2
the "+2" is something entirely different than LSA----
They have bulit in 2* of advance into the cam
IMPORTANT:
ADVANCING the cam aids in bottom and midrange power
RETARDING the cam aids in top end power

 

Love my 224 cam.

I keep looking at a different combination of a cam/ heads vs costs.

and until my engine blows up, I think I will keep it.


All though Tony's new AFR 210 head sounds very very interesting.