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Is it possible to install/remove the heads in the car with the studs in place? Or do you have to put the heads on then put the studs in?
If that's the case, I'll get the ARP bolts.
I was able to do it with all the studs in place. However, you may find it easier to leave a couple of key studs out until the heads are in place. I found this method easier when leaving the headers in place.
I have 6-bolt heads and am still able to remove/install heads with no trouble. Get the studs. You'll be glad you did. If you're going F/I or nitrous, get the 2000 series studs.
One thing you do have to be careful of is to set the head correctly onto the studs. If you contact the studs with the bottom of the head and then move it (drag it) you can scratch the sealing surface of the head. Hope this makes sense.
One thing you do have to be careful of is to set the head correctly onto the studs. If you contact the studs with the bottom of the head and then move it (drag it) you can scratch the sealing surface of the head. Hope this makes sense.
I went with the ARP STUDS and all I can say is WOW! They make head installation much easier and the quality of the system absolutely ROCKS. Ive had my heads off several times and I had ZERO stud issues. There were NO interference issues what so ever and the heads go on and off easily.
Just MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the head bolt holes are clean and 100% DRY before you put the studs in and make sure that you install the washers that go under the nuts in the correct orientation !!!!!
One other word of advice. If you have a 03 and later block, you'll be using the "equal length" studs, however positions 9&10 are .100" longer. Honestly I didn't notice until after the first time in installed them.
ok, I'll add a second recommendation. You need to know which block you have. Older will take the 234-4316 and the newer will take the 234-4317's
One other word of advice. If you have a 03 and later block, you'll be using the "equal length" studs, however positions 9&10 are .100" longer. Honestly I didn't notice until after the first time in installed them.
ok, I'll add a second recommendation. You need to know which block you have. Older will take the 234-4316 and the newer will take the 234-4317's
Great INFO. Stuff that I didnt know! Thanks!! The pictures are on an 02 ZO6 Block.
i've read that gm says to torque it down the 75 but arp says to torque it down to 80? which 1 is it? these have to be torque down in 3 steps leading up the the torque # right?
Hey Bill, is that 1/4" line thats running over the lifter valley, the take off of the rear coolant crossover line?
Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
I went with the ARP STUDS and all I can say is WOW! They make head installation much easier and the quality of the system absolutely ROCKS. Ive had my heads off several times and I had ZERO stud issues. There were NO interference issues what so ever and the heads go on and off easily.
Just MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE that the head bolt holes are clean and 100% DRY before you put the studs in and make sure that you install the washers that go under the nuts in the correct orientation !!!!!
i've read that gm says to torque it down the 75 but arp says to torque it down to 80? which 1 is it? these have to be torque down in 3 steps leading up the the torque # right?
when using ARP fasteners you need to use their specs.