Brake Fluid Change - seeking advice
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 204
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From: Naperville Illinois
Brake Fluid Change - seeking advice
I'm wanting to change the fluid on my 12 year old coupe. I was going to leave it to the shop when spring rolled around, but I just read a tech article in the latest issue of Corvette Magazine that it's as easy as removing the bleeder valve from each caliper (starting in the rear right and working your way to the left front) and having someone pump the brake pedal until clear fluid comes through, making sure that the fluid in the MC never gets too low so no air gets in the lines. Is it really this easy? If so, any pointers that a first-timer could benefit from? Ways to avoid a mess? Thanks!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 25
It's how brakes have been bleed for many years. As long as the system never goes dry, your good to go. I have a vacuum system also-looks like you like in Naperville too-ping me want to give it a try, no pumping of the pedal.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 204
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From: Naperville Illinois
Also, nice to know there's another NBM C5 lurking around Naperville!
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 182
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From: Palm Harbor Fl
It's really that simple. It does take while if you do the whole master cylinder. I like to remove 90* of the old fluid with a turkey baster first, be sure to not let the master cylinder run dry, and then fill the reservoir with new clean fluid. Then start to bleed the rest of brakes.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
You don't actually remove the bleeder valve.
You crack it open, let someone push down the brake pedal, then close the bleeder, and release the brake pedal.
If you remove the bleeder, you will draw air into the caliper when the brake pedal returns.
To keep the mess to a minimum, attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder, and put the other end in a bottle to catch the fluid as it is pushed out of the caliper.
You crack it open, let someone push down the brake pedal, then close the bleeder, and release the brake pedal.
If you remove the bleeder, you will draw air into the caliper when the brake pedal returns.
To keep the mess to a minimum, attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder, and put the other end in a bottle to catch the fluid as it is pushed out of the caliper.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
I'm wanting to change the fluid on my 12 year old coupe. I was going to leave it to the shop when spring rolled around, but I just read a tech article in the latest issue of Corvette Magazine that it's as easy as removing the bleeder valve from each caliper (starting in the rear right and working your way to the left front) and having someone pump the brake pedal until clear fluid comes through, making sure that the fluid in the MC never gets too low so no air gets in the lines. Is it really this easy? If so, any pointers that a first-timer could benefit from? Ways to avoid a mess? Thanks!
1997-2000 LR/RR/RF/LF
2001-2004 RR/LF/LR/RF
Also, as 8Vette7 said; do not remove the bleeder screw completely. It's not a difficult task and if you're handy at all you should be able to handle it. It basically goes as follows:
Raise and safely support the car.
Remove the wheels.
Start with the first corner in the sequence. Place some plastic tubing over the the end of the bleeder and place the other end in a bucket or some other kind of container.
Instruct your helper in the car to press the brake pedal to the floor and leave it there until you tell them to release it.
Once the pedal is down crack the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow out until it stops.
Tighten the bleeder screw and tell your helper to release the brake pedal.
Repeat as necessary and do so for each corner.
MAKE SURE THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER NEVER RUNS DRY!
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
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From: South Western Ontario
The hose into a container works great. You don't even have to tighten the bleeder between pumps, just keep slowly pumping. Start at one wheel and pump until the master is close to empty and then fill it and keep pumping until new fluid appears at that wheel. Then, move to the other wheels and keep pumping until new fluid is there too. You really don't have to worry about the order if you don't have any air in the system.
I had my car on stands so once I got clean fluid at the rear I also installed a couple of nuts on each rear rotor and then let the car idle in first which is just enough to kick-in the TC and start applying rear brakes. I then opened the rear bleeders (still using the hose and container) and let the running ABS pump flush some new fluid through the ABS passages and valves.
Peter
I had my car on stands so once I got clean fluid at the rear I also installed a couple of nuts on each rear rotor and then let the car idle in first which is just enough to kick-in the TC and start applying rear brakes. I then opened the rear bleeders (still using the hose and container) and let the running ABS pump flush some new fluid through the ABS passages and valves.
Peter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,700
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From: Ft. Lauderdale Fl
I was wondering how long was it going to take for someone to mention "speed bleeders". They are cheap and make it a one man job. Have been used for years.
Last edited by runner140*; Jan 3, 2012 at 07:56 AM. Reason: add
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
I have always used a vacuum bleeder. It is quick and easy, and a one man job. Vacuum pumps are cheap and available at just about any autoparts store. They are also the best way to ensure that no air gets into the system. Just ensure to use the proper bleed sequence for your year of car. Most of all, Do Not Let The Master Reservoir Go Dry!
