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I had not heard about this until it happened to me saturday night (what a way to start the new year)... So I had my car towed back to the house today, no point in taking it to a dealership because I found out the car has already had the recall done to it.... So now, from what I've researched, the only thing left to do is install the column lock bypass on it and hope for the best. I'm not too upset bc Ive been wanting to order plugs/wires anyway and this just gives me an excuse to go ahead and do it. I would like to order the plugs/wires and bypass all from the same store so my question is where is a good place online to get all three and is there any one bypass kit that is most recommend bc i know there are several different ones available.. btw im going to get ngk tr55 plugs and gmpp wires, if that makes any difference.
Same thing happened to me. Took lower dash under steering wheel off and found factory recall box there. Took it off and started and ran fine. Wasn't my battery as it was a new optima but tried that fix first anyways,
Got the right bypass box in my storage in back in case I ever need it.
Check with Gene or Patrick at GMPARTSHOUSE.COM. Not sure if they have CLB's or not but they will have the other parts.
What exactly are the column lock symptoms you are experiencing? Column locked with key in the ignition? Fuel shutoff? Column not locked with no key in the ignition?
Start with the battery. The MOST COMMON cause of the column lock symptoms are a weak or bad battery or loose or corroded battery connections including the connection to the starter. The battery health needs to be determined. Measure the voltage directly across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected using a DMM. The column lock electronics will fail to operate correctly is the voltage measured as described is NOT greater than 12.5 volts. The car will start with less than 12.2 volts but the column lock electronics which run BEFORE you start the car will fail to function properly. Dash guages tell you the state of health of the charging system NOT the battery so ignore the ddash guage readings in this case. The electronics in the car are voltage sensitive and need a minimum level to function properly. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts. If you cannot charge the battery to at least 12.7 volts it's on its way out.
Check the carpet on the floor of the passengers side. Is it wet??? If so post that info back here.
My bet is your battery is the cause. Just as an FYI a CLB when properly installed protects you against the column ever locking but does NOT protect you against the dreded fuel shutoff. That can STILL happen with a CLB is the battery voltage goes low again.
As far as symptoms the steering wheel never locked, I was only getting the fuel shutoff... I took my battery out and took it to my local auto parts store. The guy said the battery was good but could use a little charge. After about an hour and a half charging I reinstalled the battery with the same issues... but where the steering wheel never locked i'm wondering if maybe my car already has the CLB?!
just went and checked this... turned the key to run and was reading 11.2 volts, then cranked the car and was running like 14.6 volts. Normal or possibly the problem?
btw im going to get ngk tr55 plugs and gmpp wires, if that makes any difference.
I'd recommend getting the NGK TR5 instead of the TR55 plugs. The TR5 is pre-gapped at 0.040" and the TR55 is pre-gapped at 0.060" (the original spec for the C5 Vette).
But, per Service Bulletin 03D-J-171 (dated Dec 12, 2003) to all distributors and jobbers, the gap was changed by GM from 0.060" to 0.040" for all spark plugs used in 1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette.
Therefore, if you buy plugs exactly specified for you car (which the TR55 isn't anymore), they will all be come gapped at 0.040" per the Service Bulletin.
I'd recommend getting the NGK TR5 instead of the TR55 plugs. The TR5 is pre-gapped at 0.040" and the TR55 is pre-gapped at 0.060" (the original spec for the C5 Vette).
But, per Service Bulletin 03D-J-171 (dated Dec 12, 2003) to all distributors and jobbers, the gap was changed by GM from 0.060" 0.040" for all spark plugs used in 1997-2004 Chevrolet Corvette.
Therefore, if you buy plugs exactly specified for you car (which the TR55 isn't anymore), they will all be come gapped at 0.040" per the Service Bulletin.
As I said in my post above the dash guage readings mean nothing about the battery state of health. Key on and engine off and there are all sorts of electrical devices in the car loading the battery so the value you see means nothing. Engine running and you read the output voltage of the alternator. Nice the alternator is trying to charge the battery but the CL electronics runs just as you insert the key in the ignition and start to turn it toward the start position. once the engine is running the voltage is too late because the electronics have already run and failed.
Measure the voltage as I explained. If it is NOT greater than 12.5 volts measured as I explained you WILL experience the column lock symptoms.
Only way to know what has been done to your car (I'm assuming you are NOT the original owner) is LOOK.
Start by getting a GMVIS and see when the column lock recall service was done. There are many variations and the date of the service can help figure out which one was done. If 04006C was done (after March 2006) the lock plate was replaced with a small diameter lock plate that prevents the column from ever physically locking. But the Column Lock electronics still go through the motions of locking and unlocking the column. Additionally a GM K Harness would have been installed with 04006C. Those fail at unbelieveable rates and prevent the system from functioning correctly also.
Dealer may print out a copy of the GM VIS for your VIN free or he may want to charge you or he may not want to give it to you at all. If you cannot get yours from a GM dealer send an email to either one of the following along with your VIN and ask them to email the GMVIS back to you:
Check your PM's in a couple of hours. I'll send you some additional info.
thanks for the info... i read over your first post again and i get what you're saying.. as far as looking to see what has been done i wanted to first ask to see if there was anyway of knowing bc i didnt really know what i was looking for, plus i thought it would be a good idea to ask first before i started tearing my dash apart. i will get in touch with a dealership tomorrow to try and get more info on when the recall was done. when i took the battery to the auto shop i did not have the guy test the voltage so... if i end up getting a new battery does anyone have any suggestions on which one to get? currently have an ac delco