Today I was coming back from a DR appt. and was running late. I had a ricer just keep screwing with me so I was pissed and showed him the tail lights disappearing. I have an o3 Z06 charged. I was moving pretty good on my slow down and hit a dip in the road that bounced the car pretty good. Now I have this click in the rear and I pulled over I could not see anything. Of coarse. I turned a hard right turn and it quit but then came back. The ABS light came on too. Im thinking CV or hub assembly because of the light however it comes on randomly to service it then stops. Whats your opinion? Any guess on how far I can make it if it is a CV? I have a new axle at home for back up and bearing hubs. What do you think. Please dont say bent rim that would suck big time.
Thanks

 

unless you want a GUESS,,, Post the DTCs that are captured.

If there are a BUNCH,,,,,,,,,, Clear them and the very next time you see any errors. READ the DTCs "without" turning off the engine!

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

WOW that was great! I copied it and pasted it. I had HP tuner hooked up I know that the abs came on and that would be because it knocked my right rear ebrake cable loose that was rubbing on the wheel weight. Oh did I mentioned when I changed the clutch that I tie rapped it to the ebrake to keep it away from any moving parts. I just paniced I was late for work , pissed off at the idiot in the eclipse. Now I have to find and replace the right ebrake cable. GM said they are discontinued. Unbelievable of the stuff I cant get for this car that is discontinued. I took my shoe string out and tied it up. Drove over to my friends vette shop and borrowed some tie raps. (note to self you have several bags, put some in the car) ok Its all better now except for the ebrake cable. Are they the same on the c6? Thanks for posting so fast. I was at work with people that are non car people breathing down my neck. Next time I will leave more info to go on.

 

Glad you were able to track down the noise.

By the way, other members have had the same issue before with their emergency brake cable becoming unhooked from it's proper position &
getting tangled up.
However, more than likely under different circumstances

You may want to contact Marc Rose out of Tennesee.
He has a Corvette recycleling bussiness & is a supporting vendor here on the forum.
Plus he is a Corvette owner too.
He should be able to set you up you need in used parts.

Marc@Vettenuts.net
phone #615 896 6100

Good luck

 

Will this procedure work on a C6?

Thanks

 

No.....

 

NO,, Only C5

 

Thanks